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Suitable substitute for K-33 in LaScala?


Ray_pierrewit

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The K-43 does some magic in the upper bass that the K-33 does not.

 

The lower bass of the K-33 vs. the slightly higher bass cutoff of the K-43 is not a factor in a La Scala bass bin which has relatively nothing to offer under 50hz anyway.

 

They show up from time to time on the used market. Some even have the way cool "PWK" logo'd dustcap, which you would never see inside the doghouse... but it's still cool.
 

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, Tom Bird said:

Thank you for that info. That's what I was wondering RE: the k43 E. Since their is no "klipsch OEM" replacement for it.

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https://reconingspeakers.com/products-page/original-klipsch-k-43-ep-15-woofer-121535-for-la-scala-industrial-version/

 

A bit more expense. They may also be the cast frame, which is what the K-43s were in my Klipsch MWM cabinets. They won't fit in a regular LS.

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7 hours ago, Marvel said:

The K-43 was in the pro LS and in the MWM cabinets. The upper bass is cleaner than the K-33.

 

K-33 has been rated for 150watts for a long time. I don't know what the K-43 is rated at. Either way, a 25 wpc amp would drive you out of the house.

And yet I hear some folks manage to blow them:)

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https://reconingspeakers.com/products-page/original-klipsch-k-43-ep-15-woofer-121535-for-la-scala-industrial-version/
 
A bit more expense. They may also be the cast frame, which is what the K-43s were in my Klipsch MWM cabinets. They won't fit in a regular LS.
Thanks, I didn't know that their was a recone kit for the K43 E. I kept hearing that their are no "Klipsch OEM" kits for alot of the drivers so I lost all hope of that. I have always wondered how good the driver will sound reconed. I would imagine if done correctly and with the OEM it would sound the same.

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5 hours ago, Tom Bird said:

 I kept hearing that their are no "Klipsch OEM" kits 
 

 that's right  .........all you can buy are  Aftermarket  kits +   the glue  , epoxy costs and shipping are added on top  of the price of the kit ,

 

 129$   for a brand new  K-33   from klipsch   is a bargain  .... 

 

https://reconingspeakers.com/products-page/klipsch-k43e-aftermarket-recone-kit-4-ohm/

 

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 that's right  .........all you can buy are  Aftermarket  kits +   the glue  , epoxy costs and shipping are added on top  of the price of the kit ,
 
 129$   for a brand new  K-33   from klipsch   is a bargain  .... 
 
https://reconingspeakers.com/products-page/klipsch-k43e-aftermarket-recone-kit-4-ohm/
 
The K33 E sounds much better to me plus I know it's OEM.

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4 hours ago, Tom Bird said:

I did click on it but I didn't read the full information. I thought the price was for them to recone it. My mistake

 3 aftermarket kits , around 63$ each  + shipping , you supply the labor + the glue and epoxy 

 

https://reconingspeakers.com/products-page/klipsch-k43e-aftermarket-recone-kit-4-ohm/
 

 

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1 minute ago, Tom Bird said:

To be honest. I would try one just for the experience but I would rather buy OEM.

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 if  the Voice coil is defective and the cone is intact ,  the VC  can be replaced without replacing the cone  

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 if  the Voice coil is defective and the cone is intact ,  the VC  can be replaced without replacing the cone  
All components of my 3 industrials an 2 1977. LS are working. My concern with my 3 industrials are they came from a funhouse/amusement park and wonder if they aren't as tight as they should be. The sound great but always wonder if newer drivers/replacements would sound tighter/better.

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37 minutes ago, OO1 said:

 3 aftermarket kits , around 63$ each  + shipping , you supply the labor + the glue and epoxy 

 

https://reconingspeakers.com/products-page/klipsch-k43e-aftermarket-recone-kit-4-ohm/
 

 

The link I provided wasn't a recone kit but the full K-43. 

 

Tom, If I were using these at home and you wanted to replace your K-33 woofers, I would stick with the K-33.

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The link I provided wasn't a recone kit but the full K-43. 
 
Tom, If I were using these at home and you wanted to replace your K-33 woofers, I would stick with the K-33.
I have 3 industrials as my front stage and 2 1977 regular LS as my rears. It's my front industrials that came out of a funhouse/amusement park that I'm wondering about. Wondering if refresh with new driver and new diaphragms are in order.

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1 hour ago, Tom Bird said:

I have 3 industrials as my front stage and 2 1977 regular LS as my rears. It's my front industrials that came out of a funhouse/amusement park that I'm wondering about. Wondering if refresh with new driver and new diaphragms are in order.

Sent from my LM-G820 

 

How do your LSI sound compared to the LS? My personal experience with LSI that were in service tend to have loose connectors, loose screws, loose mid drivers, maybe dry gaskets. I’d go through and disassemble and clean everything before replacing drivers. Could be debris in the doghouse. Could be crossover. 

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How do your LSI sound compared to the LS? My personal experience with LSI that were in service tend to have loose connectors, loose screws, loose mid drivers, maybe dry gaskets. I’d go through and disassemble and clean everything before replacing drivers. Could be debris in the doghouse. Could be crossover. 
Already pulled apart and cleaned all connections. I went as far as pulling the horns that had some good discoloration and repainted them. Painted the outside with Duatex because the factory finish was rough and everything stuck to them. Also AA networks had Dayton audio precision caps in there but I swapped them out for JEM performance (Klipsch approved) caps. The only thing I didn't do was replace internal wiring. Don't get me wrong they do sound great and I know I have room acoustic issues that also need to be addressed but being from 1980 and used basically every day close to the ocean just has me wondering if they are a little played out. I know they are pro speakers but that is a long time.

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1 hour ago, Tom Bird said:

Already pulled apart and cleaned all connections. I went as far as pulling the horns that had some good discoloration and repainted them. Painted the outside with Duatex because the factory finish was rough and everything stuck to them. Also AA networks had Dayton audio precision caps in there but I swapped them out for JEM performance (Klipsch approved) caps. The only thing I didn't do was replace internal wiring. Don't get me wrong they do sound great and I know I have room acoustic issues that also need to be addressed but being from 1980 and used basically every day close to the ocean just has me wondering if they are a little played out. I know they are pro speakers but that is a long time.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 

Sounds like you need to open the doghouse then. I’d get genuine replacements and none of the “generic” replacements. If they had Dayton caps who knows what maybe in the doghouse. 

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