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Repainting/repairing Klipsch Epic CF-3 emblems (or KLF) curiosities plus strip black paint then veneer


avguytx

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Recently, I just happened to luck out and found/bought a set of the Epic/KLF series grill emblems that are unobtanium anymore.  Nothing is broken on them and they have the two "posts" on the back to sit into the grill.  I've had to redo some emblems before with the 2 step paint method but curious if anyone else out there has ever done so.  When these emblems are in their normal pristine condition, were they made with black plastic then the copper/gold color added?  I'm not out to get them 100% perfect...just will be happy to have some emblems on them once I replace the original grill cloth that has a dark purple-ish hue to it. 

 

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I'm also going to strip off the awful looking black satin paint finish that looks like it was done on Margarita Monday (literally) and owners tried to color in spots with a black Sharpie over their years.  I have to true up the edges just a tad and a slightly bunged up corner which is no problem.  I'm pondering 3 different veneers....flat cut African Mahogany (1st pic), flat cut Cherry (2nd pic), or quarter cut Bubinga (3rd pic).  I am no fan of oak so that's out and I've also considered walnut, although pricier.  Haven't decided just yet but I know I don't like the flashier veneer.  A nice thing about veneering these is that you only have to do the sides and tops but you do need a 4' x 10' sheet as that is 99 inches in length.

 

African mahogany wood veneer sample, flat cut

 

Cheery wood veneer sample, flat cut

 

Picture 1 of 1

 

 

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  • avguytx changed the title to Repainting/repairing Klipsch Epic CF-3 emblems (or KLF) curiosities plus strip black paint then veneer
22 minutes ago, DirtyErnie said:

I don't think you could pick a loser with any of those veneers.  I'd have a difficult choice between the mahogany and cherry.   Bubinga is cool, but it's always looked a bit rough to me.

 

Yeah, that's true.  There's a flat cut Bubinga that's not so bad and more like most grains.  Then there's my old faithful ribbon mahogany (bottom pics) which would at least match the Pioneer PL-518 turntable I rebuilt and covered in veneer.

 

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mahogany-veneer-ribbon-striped.jpg

 

My Pioneer PL-518

 

 

 

 

Pioneer1.jpg

 

 

Pioneer2.jpg

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14 hours ago, Chief bonehead said:

I choose B

 

Another question.  I've looked over various pics of CF-3's in Cherry and it appears the veneer is quarter cut and not flat cut possibly.  The new Cornwall IV's also appear to be quarter cut.  Would that be a correct assumption in that quarter cut was primarily used?

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/10/2022 at 6:17 PM, avguytx said:

So nobody has ever messed with the plastic emblems? 

 

I'd try some black model paint.  Remember Testors paint from when you were a kid?  I just bought some at Hobby Lobby to repair a scratch on a piece of gear.  $1.99 each.  That and a very small artists brush. 

 

Maybe start with a coat of copper paint, then go over the details with the black.  The 'PWK' is going to be tough.

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37 minutes ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:

 

I'd try some black model paint.  Remember Testors paint from when you were a kid?  I just bought some at Hobby Lobby to repair a scratch on a piece of gear.  $1.99 each.  That and a very small artists brush. 

 

Maybe start with a coat of copper paint, then go over the details with the black.  The 'PWK' is going to be tough.

 

That's been a thought I've had, too.  I might have my wife do the steady hand work as she's the gifted "surgical closure" who sews people up after dermatology rebuilds.  I built lots of models as a kid so remember that paint well. I even thought the opposite direction of spraying them black and touching the tops with something gold.  Or, spray them black and then mist some gold paint on a flat piece of paper, etc., and lightly "stamp" the lettering onto it.  Gonna be interesting.  Thanks for the input.

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