avguytx Posted November 28, 2022 Share Posted November 28, 2022 Recently, I just happened to luck out and found/bought a set of the Epic/KLF series grill emblems that are unobtanium anymore. Nothing is broken on them and they have the two "posts" on the back to sit into the grill. I've had to redo some emblems before with the 2 step paint method but curious if anyone else out there has ever done so. When these emblems are in their normal pristine condition, were they made with black plastic then the copper/gold color added? I'm not out to get them 100% perfect...just will be happy to have some emblems on them once I replace the original grill cloth that has a dark purple-ish hue to it. I'm also going to strip off the awful looking black satin paint finish that looks like it was done on Margarita Monday (literally) and owners tried to color in spots with a black Sharpie over their years. I have to true up the edges just a tad and a slightly bunged up corner which is no problem. I'm pondering 3 different veneers....flat cut African Mahogany (1st pic), flat cut Cherry (2nd pic), or quarter cut Bubinga (3rd pic). I am no fan of oak so that's out and I've also considered walnut, although pricier. Haven't decided just yet but I know I don't like the flashier veneer. A nice thing about veneering these is that you only have to do the sides and tops but you do need a 4' x 10' sheet as that is 99 inches in length. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyErnie Posted November 29, 2022 Share Posted November 29, 2022 I don't think you could pick a loser with any of those veneers. I'd have a difficult choice between the mahogany and cherry. Bubinga is cool, but it's always looked a bit rough to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avguytx Posted November 29, 2022 Author Share Posted November 29, 2022 22 minutes ago, DirtyErnie said: I don't think you could pick a loser with any of those veneers. I'd have a difficult choice between the mahogany and cherry. Bubinga is cool, but it's always looked a bit rough to me. Yeah, that's true. There's a flat cut Bubinga that's not so bad and more like most grains. Then there's my old faithful ribbon mahogany (bottom pics) which would at least match the Pioneer PL-518 turntable I rebuilt and covered in veneer. My Pioneer PL-518 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyErnie Posted November 29, 2022 Share Posted November 29, 2022 Might be my favorite wood to look at, that ribbon mahogany. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avguytx Posted November 30, 2022 Author Share Posted November 30, 2022 I wonder if @Chief bonehead would throw his opinion in on these veneer choices. You know...IF a certain person were going to go through the effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipsch Employees Chief bonehead Posted November 30, 2022 Klipsch Employees Share Posted November 30, 2022 I choose B 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avguytx Posted November 30, 2022 Author Share Posted November 30, 2022 1 hour ago, Chief bonehead said: I choose B Thank you sir. Yeah, flat cut cherry does look good. It was mainly that or the mahogany I was deliberating on. Kind of like @DirtyErnie mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avguytx Posted November 30, 2022 Author Share Posted November 30, 2022 14 hours ago, Chief bonehead said: I choose B Another question. I've looked over various pics of CF-3's in Cherry and it appears the veneer is quarter cut and not flat cut possibly. The new Cornwall IV's also appear to be quarter cut. Would that be a correct assumption in that quarter cut was primarily used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avguytx Posted December 11, 2022 Author Share Posted December 11, 2022 So nobody has ever messed with the plastic emblems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyErnie Posted December 13, 2022 Share Posted December 13, 2022 As you said, they're 'unobtanium'. I have one busted one somewhere in the house, and the other was missing when I bought my 'still works' CF2's. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerwoodKhorns Posted December 13, 2022 Share Posted December 13, 2022 On 12/10/2022 at 6:17 PM, avguytx said: So nobody has ever messed with the plastic emblems? I'd try some black model paint. Remember Testors paint from when you were a kid? I just bought some at Hobby Lobby to repair a scratch on a piece of gear. $1.99 each. That and a very small artists brush. Maybe start with a coat of copper paint, then go over the details with the black. The 'PWK' is going to be tough. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avguytx Posted December 13, 2022 Author Share Posted December 13, 2022 37 minutes ago, tigerwoodKhorns said: I'd try some black model paint. Remember Testors paint from when you were a kid? I just bought some at Hobby Lobby to repair a scratch on a piece of gear. $1.99 each. That and a very small artists brush. Maybe start with a coat of copper paint, then go over the details with the black. The 'PWK' is going to be tough. That's been a thought I've had, too. I might have my wife do the steady hand work as she's the gifted "surgical closure" who sews people up after dermatology rebuilds. I built lots of models as a kid so remember that paint well. I even thought the opposite direction of spraying them black and touching the tops with something gold. Or, spray them black and then mist some gold paint on a flat piece of paper, etc., and lightly "stamp" the lettering onto it. Gonna be interesting. Thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.