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Yet Another Cornwall I Crossover Post - 2023


MacWorks

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3 minutes ago, CWOReilly said:

I’d leave them alone if they sound good to you. And if you do decide to make changes, buy another set of crossovers and retain originals for later. 

Great tip. Do I need to look for the same Type B or can another type be used? I have limited knowledge of this.

 

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5 hours ago, MacWorks said:

Do I need to look for the same Type B or can another type be used?

 

 

I believe the B2 is an upgrade of the B???

 

If this is the case, just add three components to the B to get a B2, and it could be easily reversed if you don't like it...

 

Mount a 20uf capacitor across the woofer outout.

Mount a 245uh inductor across the tweeter output.

Mount a 12uf capacitor in series with the B's 4uf capacitor to get to the B2's 3uf capacitor.

 

Reverse the polarity of the squawker and tweeter outputs, and give it a listen.

 

Just a thought.

 

Mike
 

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On 1/2/2023 at 8:45 AM, MacWorks said:

Looking for conventional wisdom here on a budget. Cornwall 1's that sound great but nothing to compare it to. No leaking caps so should I just let it be?

YES , get new capacitors asap ,  the capacitors are 45 years old ,  my 79 Cornwalls  crossovers were off specs 15 years ago  with visually non  leaking  oil  capacitors which really means nothing , the term leakage is  ESR  loss  , an ESR meter can measure  the ESR loss   .

 

 the 45 year old capacitors are no longer filtering the unwanted frequencies and that puts the  Original HF and MIDS  driver diaphragms  at risk  of being damaged  ,

 

  

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Looks like you are ready. If that is lead free solder set it aside and get 60/40 solder. Lead free is for more experienced users. PIA in other words. Not the kind you want to learn how to solder with. Just remember you do not melt the solder with the iron. Heat the two connections hot enough to melt and flow the solder. Plenty of youtube video how to. 

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@MacWorks,

 

If you leave the iron on the capacitor leads too long you will fry the capacitors. Leave the leads as long as they come.

 

I am not even sure a 25 Watt iron is up to the task. The wires will suck up a lot of the heat before they “tin”.

 

Many people, myself included use aligator clips clamped across the capacitor leads as a heat sink. I have even put a tiny bit of moistened sponge inside the clips when the leads are really short (salvaged from another project) in addition to a clamp or as many as I can fit.


There are really cheap “automatic wire strippers” that may come in handy.

 

I would be inclined to leave the original caps right where they are on the board and leave a couple inches of wire still soldered to each cap. There is a lot of real estate for the new caps beside them on those boards. Or, if you are worried about the “cans” eventually leaking you could pull them off, but leave a couple inches of wire on them, just in case… 

 

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2 hours ago, geoff. said:

@MacWorks,

 

If you leave the iron on the capacitor leads too long you will fry the capacitors. Leave the leads as long as they come.

 

I am not even sure a 25 Watt iron is up to the task. The wires will suck up a lot of the heat before they “tin”.

 

Many people, myself included use aligator clips clamped across the capacitor leads as a heat sink. I have even put a tiny bit of moistened sponge inside the clips when the leads are really short (salvaged from another project) in addition to a clamp or as many as I can fit.


There are really cheap “automatic wire strippers” that may come in handy.

 

I would be inclined to leave the original caps right where they are on the board and leave a couple inches of wire still soldered to each cap. There is a lot of real estate for the new caps beside them on those boards. Or, if you are worried about the “cans” eventually leaking you could pull them off, but leave a couple inches of wire on them, just in case… 

 

Thank you, @geoff. All really good suggestions. I will follow your advice and get a better iron and leave the old cans in place.

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1 hour ago, MacWorks said:

Thank you, @geoff. All really good suggestions. I will follow your advice and get a better iron and leave the old cans in place.

you dont need to solder  ,  here is a  custom  E  network by Luther  @Wardsweb all done with a  crimping tool

 

 Wardsweb Type E.jpg

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The Type E is for the Heresy. It is similar in design to what you have in your Cornwalls. Most everyone likes these simple networks. 
 

The kits are for people who have some basic tech and soldering experience. You should watch some videos and practice soldering wire together until you’re comfortable with your own work. 
 

The Type B2 superseded the Type B. The speakers image better and will take a bit more power before sounding strained. I usually move people to that network if I can. I stock the Klipsch OEM parts for this if you’re interested. I can also build you a new set for $425 shipped if you’d prefer to go that route. 
 

Dean

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29 minutes ago, Deang said:

I can also build you a new set for $425 shipped if you’d prefer to go that route. 

@MacWorks I would recommend this because it allows you to retain your original networks in original state but allows you to decide on the sound.  If this was an option 13 years ago when I purchased my Cornwall Is, I would have gone this route.  

 

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