Deang Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted January 3 Author Share Posted January 3 I sent @ampedsome basic shipping instructions. Use large bubble wrap for the networks, and pack them in such a way that they do not shift in the box. He scored a solid A+ Jim from JEM now has 6uF and 7uF values. I bought some, and asked Jim to include the instructions he sends people. I thought maybe I could add something, but they are perfectly fine the way they are. The kit presumes that the person buying the kit has the necessary skills to install the kit. So, you need to know how to desolder, solder, and think out of the box a little. Parts do not just "drop in". You need decent tools. Soldering iron should be at least 40 watts with a quality tip. I use 750 degrees, heat sink my parts, and get in and get out. If you can't get your solder to flow, you either have an underpowered iron, a dirty tip, or need more practice. i really don't want to talk much about soldering because you are already supposed to know how to do this before buying the kit. Jim sent me my first BS button for Christmas! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted January 3 Author Share Posted January 3 I remove all solder from the pads, and clean the pads. Some people just heat up and add solder (reflow). Don't do this. IMG_0665.MOV 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted January 3 Author Share Posted January 3 This first picture shows a common way of getting the cap in. It's okay I suppose, but I prefer to radius the leads to the front or rear of the cap and adjust the leads so the capacitor makes contact with the board. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted January 3 Author Share Posted January 3 . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted January 3 Author Share Posted January 3 These are kind of self explanatory. I chose wire this time around instead of extending the lead with more lead material. I wanted to see if the flexibility of the wire would help with the vertical mounting. I'm still undecided. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted January 3 Author Share Posted January 3 . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted January 3 Author Share Posted January 3 Vertical mounting is a bit of a double edged sword. If you squirt the hot melt under the cap and press down - when you solder, the glue melts and gets pulled through the hole. If you leave the cap somewhat lifted off the board, then it's not as secure - but the soldering looks better. After you solder, go back and squirt the hot melt under the cap. I started by gluing the electrolytic to the low pass coil to stabilize it while I soldered. Gorilla glue hot melt is the best I've ever used. I also use the small version of the gun and sticks for better control. I normally hit areas where parts are up against each other for reasons I can't remember. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted January 3 Author Share Posted January 3 . 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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henry4841 Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Pictures tell a thousand words. Members like seeing people on this forum doing something with pictures. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWOReilly Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Thanks Dean! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckears Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 What glue are you using to secure the caps to the board? Also, what gauge wire are you using to attach to the “top” end of the caps to extend the leads to the board? I’ve got soldering tools from previous projects, but am short glue and wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted January 3 Author Share Posted January 3 Gorilla Glue hot melt. Get the small gun and sticks. 20 gauge tin annealed stranded. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckears Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 This guy? https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-8401509-Hot-Glue-Sticks/dp/B07K791YRP/ref=sr_1_3?crid=10ZPBUE1C2S38&keywords=gorilla+glue+hot+melt&qid=1672758147&sprefix=gorilla+glue+hot+melt%2Caps%2C121&sr=8-3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billybob Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Yes Dean, maybe topic can be easy enough to find here to refer to interested parties. Nice photos, btw. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted January 3 Author Share Posted January 3 12 minutes ago, chuckears said: This guy? That’s the one 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amped Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Thank you @Deang!!! They look great. I couldn't have done it like that (the first or second time 😜). I know what you had to work with. Great photos. Nothing lost in translation. Cant wait to fire 'em up! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jhakobe Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Thanks for posting all your work Dean! Gives me some reassurance in my own ability, new things to consider, and added gorilla glue gun to my Amazon cart. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave MacKay Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 The PCB is so crowded with the new components that it sure looks difficult. Just wondering if it might make sense to make new, larger PCBs. They can be drawn up with free tools like KiCAD and made quickly and cheaply by companies like PCBway. That might make the job a whole lot easier without incurring much additional cost. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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