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Chorus II JEM Capacitor Kit Installation


Deang

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I sent @ampedsome basic shipping instructions. 

 

Use large bubble wrap for the networks, and pack them in such a way that they do not shift in the box.

 

He scored a solid A+

 

Jim from JEM now has 6uF and 7uF values. I bought some, and asked Jim to include the instructions he sends people. I thought maybe I could add something, but they are perfectly fine the way they are. 

 

The kit presumes that the person buying the kit has the necessary skills to install the kit. So, you need to know how to desolder, solder, and think out of the box a little. Parts do not just "drop in". 

 

You need decent tools. Soldering iron should be at least 40 watts with a quality tip. I use 750 degrees, heat sink my parts, and get in and get out. If you can't get your solder to flow, you either have an underpowered iron, a dirty tip, or need more practice. i really don't want to talk much about soldering because you are already supposed to know how to do this before buying the kit.

 

Jim sent me my first BS button for Christmas! 

 

 

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This first picture shows a common way of getting the cap in. It's okay I suppose, but I prefer to radius the leads to the front or rear of the cap and adjust the leads so the capacitor makes contact with the board.

 

 

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These are kind of self explanatory. I chose wire this time around instead of extending the lead with more lead material. I wanted to see if the flexibility of the wire would help with the vertical mounting. I'm still undecided.

 

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Vertical mounting is a bit of a double edged sword. If you squirt the hot melt under the cap and press down - when you solder, the glue melts and gets pulled through the hole. If you leave the cap somewhat lifted off the board, then it's not as secure - but the soldering looks better. After you solder, go back and squirt the hot melt under the cap. I started by gluing the electrolytic to the low pass coil to stabilize it while I soldered. 

 

Gorilla glue hot melt is the best I've ever used. I also use the small version of the gun and sticks for better control. I normally hit areas where parts are up against each other for reasons I can't remember.

 

 

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The PCB is so crowded with the new components that it sure looks difficult.

 

Just wondering if it might make sense to make new, larger PCBs. They can be drawn up with free tools like KiCAD and made quickly and cheaply by companies like PCBway. That might make the job a whole lot easier without incurring much additional cost.

 

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