Jck63 Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 Hi all, Does anyone know how to remove and replace the p37 mid/hi crossover? I've had one go bad. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted January 6 Share Posted January 6 How do you know it’s the network? Have heard it’s ridiculous trying to get anything out of those cabinets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billybob Posted January 6 Share Posted January 6 2 minutes ago, Deang said: How do you know it’s the network? Have heard it’s ridiculous trying to get anything out of those cabinets. @Jck63 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerwoodKhorns Posted January 6 Share Posted January 6 Here are driver replacement instructions but I think the x-over is below the bottom plate. Palladium driver replacement instructions.pdf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted January 6 Share Posted January 6 Pretty cool. Glad they're not mine, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerwoodKhorns Posted January 6 Share Posted January 6 17 minutes ago, Deang said: Pretty cool. Glad they're not mine, lol. Oh, they are not so bad. : ) I have my Chorus II's in the system right now and I prefer the P38s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jck63 Posted January 8 Author Share Posted January 8 On 1/6/2023 at 10:29 AM, Deang said: How do you know it’s the network? Have heard it’s ridiculous trying to get anything out of those cabinets. Nothing coming out of the midrange driver. I pulled it and tested it, it works fine. Only thing left is the crossover. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jck63 Posted January 8 Author Share Posted January 8 (edited) On 1/6/2023 at 10:46 AM, tigerwoodKhorns said: Here are driver replacement instructions but I think the x-over is below the bottom plate. Palladium driver replacement instructions.pdf 232.28 kB · 3 downloads Thanks TigerwoodsKhorns. Which LF driver to pull? the bottom driver? (I kinda don't think its under the bottom plate because I've pulled the bottom plate on a p17b and its solid cabinet under there) Edited January 8 by Jck63 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerwoodKhorns Posted January 8 Share Posted January 8 Oh man you are making me work on a weekend. I just checked and it is under the bottom plate on the P38s. Very easy to get to. I can post a picture this week when I have my servers on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jck63 Posted January 8 Author Share Posted January 8 (edited) 1 hour ago, tigerwoodKhorns said: Oh man you are making me work on a weekend. I just checked and it is under the bottom plate on the P38s. Very easy to get to. I can post a picture this week when I have my servers on. Oh Man, I owe you a beer! You saved me a ton of work. Would have checked this first before replacing the driver had I know it was this easy! Thanks a ton. I posted some images. The first is the LF crossover. Pretty simple. The other is the mr/tw crossover inside the base of the cabinet. Obviously, the wool is still in place. I'll post the results of testing when i have them. Thanks again! Edited January 8 by Jck63 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted January 8 Share Posted January 8 Check connection points. Seems really hard to believe there would be a part failure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerwoodKhorns Posted January 8 Share Posted January 8 Crappy cheap parts used, they must sound awful. 😬 B&W Signature 800s used similar cheap non-audiophile parts, they sounded terrible too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jck63 Posted January 8 Author Share Posted January 8 35 minutes ago, Deang said: Check connection points. Seems really hard to believe there would be a part failure. Right on man. Unbelievably, the MF+ spade terminal was only partially on the spade lug on the crossover. These things snap positively and pseudo-lock when fully pushed home. there is no way this thing came lose from vibration or anything else. It had to leave manufacturing with this defect and it didn't manifest until 8 yrs later! haha. Sadly, i had to waste $100 on a new driver to finally go looking at the crossover. What say you guys, should I put the old driver back in? My ears can't tell any difference but I do know these speakers were generally pair matched to within 0.5 db. Phenominal speakers btw, even with the midrange out on one of them they sounded better than 90% of the speakers I've heard. With both channels working, pink floyd never sounded so damn good! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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