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Heresy 1 problem


geezin'

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Over the past couple weeks I've noticed the right speaker becoming weaker. Just thought it was between my ears. Last night I swapped wires to see if it followed. No stayed in the right speaker. Pulled the back and checked for anything obvious and screws being loose. Nope. Even swapped amps to see if that was the case 'cause the main is a '65 Fisher receiver. Nah not that either. Speaker still plays but is just not as brilliant. I checked the woofer squawker and tweeter for resistance with a questionable meter. Anyone got numbers for what the drivers should read?

 

I'll probably swap the crossovers to see if it follows. Any hints?

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1 hour ago, The Dude said:

Check the screws that mount the terminal input strip on the back, the input wires to the crossover are connected here as well.  I found out mine were loose and had to be tightened from the inside.  


This, as well as unscrew and tighten every screw on the crossover input/output terminal.  

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The tweeter should be 7.5, the squawker should be 12 - 12.5 and the woofer should be 6-ish, unless a K-22-EF and it will be 8.3-ish. 

 

I had a K-77 tweeter with loose terminals that didn't always contact the voicecoil leads.  Manipulating the tweeter often gave good DCRs, until I noticed the terminal moved. 

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26 minutes ago, OO1 said:

good idea ,

what are the resistance readings on the  2 speakers ,and  are the readings  a close match ?  

Checked where? At the barrier terminal? Forgive my ignorance I'm a mechanic. I can test circuits but have no experience here. I understand how they work far better than I used to from hanging around here.

10 hours ago, Deang said:

What year?

1979 and as far as I can tell original.

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12 minutes ago, geezin' said:

Checked where? At the barrier terminal? Forgive my ignorance I'm a mechanic. I can test circuits but have no experience here. I understand how they work far better than I used to from hanging around here.

1979 and as far as I can tell original.

Unhook drivers from wires and use ohmmeter to check continuity between driver leads. Being a mechanic you probably already know a lot of electronic problems in a car, motorcycle, are usually just a bad connection somewhere. As others have said unhook and re-hook all connections and if possible take a soldering iron and go over all the solder connections on the X-over boards. Swapping X-overs is an excellent starting point to see if problem persist on the same speaker after doing so.

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15 hours ago, Deang said:

If loosening and tightening the screws, which is really just done to ensure a good connection - didn’t bring the highs back - then you should probably just go ahead and replace the capacitors. 

All joking aside and maybe it's not relevant, but when I was replacing the capacitors in my Is last weekend, I noticed I was able to get another 1/8th of turn on each screw on the terminal strip.  Is this normal, could I be over tightening them, is it possible that some expansion from some heat then cooling to cause this looseness?  Maybe I'm thinking too much into this.  It just reminded me of a house I owned that the previous owner crammed aluminum wire in with copper and over time the connection came loose and caught fire. 

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1 hour ago, The Dude said:

All joking aside and maybe it's not relevant, but when I was replacing the capacitors in my Is last weekend, I noticed I was able to get another 1/8th of turn on each screw on the terminal strip.  Is this normal, could I be over tightening them, is it possible that some expansion from some heat then cooling to cause this looseness?  Maybe I'm thinking too much into this.  It just reminded me of a house I owned that the previous owner crammed aluminum wire in with copper and over time the connection came loose and caught fire. 

Interesting thoughts. I too have seen loose connections in “virgin” Heresy I. As for the copper/aluminum wiring…. Dangerous stuff for sure. 

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On 1/26/2023 at 7:06 PM, henry4841 said:

Unhook drivers from wires and use ohmmeter to check continuity between driver leads. Being a mechanic you probably already know a lot of electronic problems in a car, motorcycle, are usually just a bad connection somewhere. As others have said unhook and re-hook all connections and if possible take a soldering iron and go over all the solder connections on the X-over boards. Swapping X-overs is an excellent starting point to see if problem persist on the same speaker after doing so.

On 1/26/2023 at 6:19 PM, OO1 said:

good idea ,

 what are the resistance readings on the  2 speakers ,and  are the readings  a close match ?  

 

 

 

OK I finally made time to swap crossovers and measure the drivers.

 

First the drivers. I measured at the spade connectors on the crossover end. All measurements listed are minus the .8 ohm resistance of the test leads.

 

#1

tweeter 5.7  Ω

squawker 9.8 Ω

woofer 6.8 Ω

 

#2-problem speaker

tweeter 5.7 Ω

squawker 9.9 Ω

woofer 6.8 Ω

 

While swapping I loosened/tighten all connections again just in case. Well seems to have worked. I listened to some very familiar songs (w/crossover swapped) and all sounds good from where I sit.

 

I really enjoy the way they sound now. I am leery of changing for the change's sake because I'm keenly aware the subjective nature. I will purchase a pair of type E crossovers and rebuild them so going back will be an option. Are the type of capacitor that came with these available new? If so should I?

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