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Recommended maintenance for a 1978 pair of Heresy 1.


Mechman6595

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I am the original owner of a 1978 pair of Heresy speakers.  They are in very near mint condition on the outside, but are sounding a little more harsher these days. 

 

 I am looking to replace the crossover caps as they are still the original configuration.  A few questions for this learned group...

  1. What caps are best to use.
  2. Expected expense of replacing? 
  3. Since I will be working to make these sing nicely once again, is there anything else, maintenance wise, I should be doing to them?

 

Thanks!

 

Scott in Minneapolis

 

PS: I met Paul Klipsch in 1978 when I was working for "Sound Environment" selling Klipsch speakers.  All this time later, I am still a fan of his speakers.

 

 

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If you are handy with a soldering iron the caps that Roy and his team at Klipsch tested and curved to ensure faithfulness to the original designs of PWK are sold by JEM.

 

If you don’t want to hassle with your it @Deang is an authorized rebuilder of the networks using those same tested and approved caps.

 

Welcome to the forum.

 

Travis

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I would highly recommend Dean if you don’t feel comfortable soldering new capacitors yourself.

 

The only other thing I’d recommend is to unscrew and tighten all of the input and output screws on the crossover.  That will help remove years of oxidation and give a much better contact.

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  1. Replace the squaker gaskets, they look like washers for a garden hose. They have dry rotted.
  2. The wires inside the speaker may have dry rotted, plan on replacing them. 14GA is plenty. Solder the wires to the spade connectors and shrink wrap the necks. Cheapo hardware store spade connectors are fine, nickel if you can find them. Gold solder spades or other exotic a may be a waste of money. Parts express has gold if you want them, I have used them and like them. Same results with cheapos.
  3. The connectors at the rear of the speaker are dangerously close, I would replace them and move them further apart or use one of the manufactured speaker connectors that will require increasing the size of the hole. I actually prefer the screw type connectors over the 5 way since I don't move the speakers every day. I wont be making any 3-4in round holes in the back of my cabinets any time soon. If you want 5 ways, and  have someone who can cut new plywood backs and drill the holes go for it. Requires a table saw and all of your fingers. Local cabinet shop may do it for you after they have a laugh, perhaps for a few bucks out of their scrap. I always pay cash for the no charge jobs, no one has ever refused me picking up their lunch in advance with a $20........
  4. I flipped the rear covers so the connectors are at the bottom. I like it, mine sit on end tables.
  5. Add some of the padding-fill from any fabric store to the bottom of the speaker 2 inches should be plenty for a little damping. Try the speaker with the damping in and out to see which you prefer. Make the fabric3-4 in wider all the way around to it leans up the sides.
  6. Flipping the woofers to account for the pull of gravity over 40 years sounds, good, I'll try it the next time I am in the speaker. Forgot to do it the last time.
  7. Rebuild or replace the cross overs, the life of the caps is 20 years. So they are overdue. Noticeably better sound on mine with the Crites crossovers. Others may sound better, but factory and Crites are all I have.
  8. Refresh the stain on the speakers, mine were walnut oil, I used WATCO to great effect. Others may be better, but I didn't try them and would just use Watco again.

 

The squaker horn compression driver may require re-magnetizing, I didn't test mine they sound great so I left them alone. Maybe a future project. Your local pro audio shop or repair shop may be able to test and re-magnetize for you.

 

Do phenolic diaphragms dry out over time, seems like they would. You can consider replacing with the same or titanium. Not sure why but I think titanium sounds different. Would love to test two speakers on mono side by side with female voice to see if what's left of my ears can hear the difference. Skylark by Ronstadt is my quick test for speakers, I've got a crush on you is a good second test if it passes the first. If she sounds seductive on Crush, you are good. If not, punt.

 

Mine got new Crites crossovers, new wires with soldered cheapo spade  terminals, new gaskets, back covers flipped, Watco walnut oil. When I have time will try the padding in one speaker on mono and use the balance control for test. Factory rear screw connectors scare me to death and need to be replaced when I remember to do it. May be use a second similar terminal offset, or a six or eight screw version of the same marked with nail polish for the black and red the others are blanks and can't do any harm. If larger terminal is good and covers the original holes, will fill the old holes with good quality calk and declare victory.

Forgot to flip the woofers, another one on the list the next time I am in there.

 

My Heresy 1 speakers sound and look superb, perhaps better sound than new.

 

 

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The only Klipsch that I have not changed to titanium are the ones being stored in the shop. A set of Heresy II and a set of Kg 1.5's, both sets back in their original boxes. One day I'll put them to use again after the insides of the shop is re-painted and all cleaned up again. All 5 of our living room speakers have the titanium diaphragms and they match up very well. Very happy with everything! 👌 

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Hi folks,

 

Thanks for the responses.  I got the cabinets open.  Like time capsules from 1978... never opened before.  I am not good with a soldering iron, so I will likely be sending them to you, Deang.  The crossovers are "type E" crossovers.  Any tips for packing them for shipping?

 

Seems like all of the wiring is still pretty good.  I like the idea of flipping the woofers and 86ing the speaker terminals.  I never did like them.  I was noticing the current Heresy version has a port in the rear.  Anyone try this with an older version?  Or, would this mess with the older crossovers?

 

I was surprised to not see any damping fabric inside the speakers. If I try this, what is recommended?

 

The finish (WO) is till in good shape.  I oiled them with linseed oil about a year ago.  I would likely just refresh this.

 

Thanks!

 

Scott

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51 minutes ago, Mechman6595 said:

  I like the idea of flipping the woofers and 86ing the speaker terminals.  

  the woofers push out , they dont push down or up , 

  Heresy terminals use a mini-barrier strip  , 0 problems .

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2 hours ago, Mechman6595 said:

Any tips for packing them for shipping?


Cut the wires near the capacitors, where they are soldered. Remove the capacitors. 

 

Use USPS medium flat rate box. Wrap each network in some decent bubble wrap - enough to provide some actual padding. Sit one in the box. Take the other, turn it upside down, and place on top of the other network. 

 

They are pretty robust. Tape box well and ship to:

 

Dean Wescott

933 E Stroop Rd

Kettering, Ohio, 45429

 

Use email I provide for PayPal, or toss personal check or money order in the box. 

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They should have a separate customer support section for Heritage owners - and an online store for most requested items. 
 

They are trying to operate like the small company they used to be while now controlling 35% of the loudspeaker market. 
 

The site seems cobbled together. I wish they would fix it. A lot of people don’t even know how to find customer support.

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Thanks. Do you know if they will sell to Canada?

 

I’m in Canada where Klipsch service handled via Gentec, Klipsch’s Canadian distributor. Gentec (also operating as Klipsch.ca) refer parts queries to an affiliated company (www.repairparts.ca).

 

Unfortunately, the gaskets aren’t listed on the repairparts.ca website. I’ve e-mailed them to ask if they can supply the gaskets.

 

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59 minutes ago, Dave MacKay said:

Thanks. Do you know if they will sell to Canada?

 

I’m in Canada where Klipsch service handled via Gentec, Klipsch’s Canadian distributor. Gentec (also operating as Klipsch.ca) refer parts queries to an affiliated company (www.repairparts.ca).

 

Unfortunately, the gaskets aren’t listed on the repairparts.ca website. I’ve e-mailed them to ask if they can supply the gaskets.

 

Hi Dave:

 

I am sorry I don’t know the answer to that, but @Islander and many others from Canada would probably know the answer to that.

 

Travis

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