KP-3002 full range and KP-115-x/KP-1000-x sub

[topjimy]

Just picked up a pair of KP-3002 full range cabs and KP-115-x/KP-1000-x subs. Both are advertised as 8 ohm cabinets but use a K48-KP woofer which appears to be a 4 ohm driver.

These have been used and abused, but after some quick soldering on sub crossovers sounded great.

Well in my excited exuberance (over powered with a carver pm 1.5 amp testing my new roland electronic drum kit) I popped one of the K48-KP woofers in the K3002 main cabs. I have since swapped the sub woofer driver into the main cab.

My main question is can anybody confirm that the K48-KP woofers are actually 4 ohm speakers and how do you achieve a 8 ohm cabinet with these?

If I replace the sub with a different woofer I am assuming it should be a 4 ohm speaker.

Digital multi meter reads the sub cabinets at 3.9 ohms and the main cabinets at 5.1 ohms. When I plug the main cabs into the sub cabs and check at sub I still get the 3.9 ohm reading. Shouldn't that reading be almost half?

BTW I know just enough to get into trouble.

I am also the proud owner of a pair of forte ii I bought new in 1989 and still rocking the living room, which is why I am a big klipsch fan.

[topjimy]

Hoping somebody knows the actual ohm load for the K48-kp woofers that are in these cabinets.

I bought a truck load of PA gear from an older gentleman primarily for these Klipsch cabinets and the convenience of running a full range signal for our smaller gigs. I am not looking for the ultimate in sound fidelity as we are your basic basement rock band who plays out occasionally. We have a slightly larger system with multi amps, active crossover... that can power outdoor parties. However the built in passive crossovers with the Klipsch is a nice way to keep things simple for the mains with less gear for smaller gigs, using electronic drums in lieu of acoustic kit and too many microphones.

I have read everything I can find on these cabs and seem to find conflicting information, some swear they are 4 ohm woofers and others state they are 8 ohm. I found aftermarket re-coning kits which are 8 ohm, really not looking to do this myself and probably not worth the 200 - 300 dollar charge to have this done professionally (cabinets were definitely used and abused but were sounding pretty good after some fixing up, before I over extended the one woofer).

I would consider replacing both speakers in the sub boxes with another brand driver and save the extra K48-KP for a just in case situation for the 3002's, but ohm load is my concern with the built in crossover in sub box. As the wrong driver will affect Hz and decibel level and could potentially create ohm load issues with power amp I plan on using. Both amps I could use don't recommend anything less than a 4 ohm load in std mode (Carver pm-1.5 or AB Precedent 900A).

BTW all fuses in all cabinets were 20 amp( I've read that this was done at factory at some point? obviously way off what they should be. I was planning on using 2 amp for horns and 5 amp for woofers, any suggestions would be welcome.

I know this isn't the usual post for developing the ultimate in fidelity, but I am trying to utilize these cabinets for our intended live band front mains.

 

[Marvel]

The entire crossover makeup defines the nominal impedance of the cabinet as a whole.

[Vivi]

I swear they were 8 ohm boxes last time I looked.

[Ridibunda]

I've just brought my Forte II's out of storage, bought new in 1990, I also have a KP115 sub, back the in the 90's the Forte II were set up with two 15" Pro Klipsch subs in a sound proofed music room. Then kids happened... 

[jjptkd]

On 12/4/2024 at 2:00 AM, topjimy said:

I have read everything I can find on these cabs and seem to find conflicting information, some swear they are 4 ohm woofers and others state they are 8 ohm. I found aftermarket re-coning kits which are 8 ohm, really not looking to do this myself and probably not worth the 200 - 300 dollar charge to have this done professionally 

I would consider replacing both speakers in the sub boxes with another brand driver and save the extra K48-KP for a just in case situation for the 3002's

 

 Not sure about those subs in particular but typically the k-48 is a 4 ohm driver but I have seen on rare occasions an 8 ohm version. Re-cones that I've had done locally used to be $75-$100 but it's been quite awhile since I've had one done. Klipsch does sell new k-48-st drivers but I have no idea how much they charge for them. Ebay has them used every so often. That driver is pretty stout- I've only ever seen one blow and that was due to an amp failure.