Heresy 1 Restoration

[jschen01]

Hi all, been perusing through the various threads on the board and wanted to summarize my understanding of steps to restore my Heresy 1's.  So here is my "punch list" but wanted to see if there are any additional thoughts or recommendations y'all might have

 

Sound Improvements

1.      Recap using JEM components - mine have a bit of oil on the tops so it is time. 

2.      Replace Midrange Gaskets - from what I can tell this is a "while you are in there"; got the gaskets from Crites

3.      Tweeter Diaphragm replacement -Going to defer, after the recap and gasket replacements I will decide.  

4.      Rotate woofers 180 degrees - I saw this in an article; guess I will do it since I will have the woofers out - but not 100% sure I understand why this is necessary.

Structural improvements

1.      Remove speakers and rub interior with Boiled Linseed Oil - going to do this since I have the cases cracked open

2.      Rear Gasket Seal - not 100% sure on this one - seems like it is a some do some dont.  My perspective is that if they werent there originally, why mess with success? Any thoughts here?

3.      Update Binding Posts - again not 100% on this one - seems like there is a split on this as well.   Similar question as above

4.      Redo grilles - have seen it mentioned, but my grilles are in excellent shape so dont think I am going to do it

 

Thanks in advance.

 

John

[jjptkd]

7 hours ago, jschen01 said:

Hi all, been perusing through the various threads on the board and wanted to summarize my understanding of steps to restore my Heresy 1's.  So here is my "punch list" but wanted to see if there are any additional thoughts or recommendations y'all might have

 

   Update Binding Posts - again not 100% on this one - seems like there is a split on this as well.   Similar question as above

 

John

 

 Sounds like you're on the right track if you want to restore to stock. As far as the binding posts I use these screw in cheaters on my pro speakers with barrier strip connectors and they seem to work very well. Post some pictures before and after if you can good luck!

 

https://www.amazon.com/CESS-162-Banana-Plug-Female-Speaker/dp/B08PV8L6NC?pd_rd_w=baEVI&content-id=amzn1.sym.55f2405b-2aa3-4fa1-95e2-48a0da8f4e9a&pf_rd_p=55f2405b-2aa3-4fa1-95e2-48a0da8f4e9a&pf_rd_r=W3DW967TH14P609VYGWG&pd_rd_wg=wnyvE&pd_rd_r=67659cf5-fa7d-4b19-977f-9a2b4384476c&pd_rd_i=B08PV8L6NC&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_1_ec_pd_hp_d_atf_rp_2_t&th=1

 

 

[82 Cornwalls]

I bought these to keep the original connections on my CWs.

 

[Woofers and Tweeters]

Sounds like a fun project. On the binding post, the more connections you have, the more 'leaks' you'll have. It is very easy to install new binding posts and it doesn't take away from the value of the speakers. Here are a couple of links: I like the recessed cups because, when I move them, the posts don't stick out. Some, similar to these, or these are okay. You might want to make sure they are long enough for the thickness of the backs. 

What wood finish is yours?

[jschen01]

The unfinished birch

[82 Cornwalls]

1 hour ago, Woofers and Tweeters said:

 On the binding post, the more connections you have, the more 'leaks' you'll have.

 

Have you counted all the connections both ways?

[Woofers and Tweeters]

Just now, 82 Cornwalls said:

 

Have you counted all the connections both ways?

If I understand your question: No, I have not counted them. I have soldered many of my connections if they don't need moving. I sometimes use banana plugs, but I know that only adds terminations to the system. I would lose the bet if I were to claim there to be any detectable difference in sound quality. 

[KT88]

14 hours ago, jschen01 said:

Hi all, been perusing through the various threads on the board and wanted to summarize my understanding of steps to restore my Heresy 1's.  So here is my "punch list" but wanted to see if there are any additional thoughts or recommendations y'all might have

 

Sound Improvements

1.      Recap using JEM components - mine have a bit of oil on the tops so it is time. 

2.      Replace Midrange Gaskets - from what I can tell this is a "while you are in there"; got the gaskets from Crites

3.      Tweeter Diaphragm replacement -Going to defer, after the recap and gasket replacements I will decide.  

4.      Rotate woofers 180 degrees - I saw this in an article; guess I will do it since I will have the woofers out - but not 100% sure I understand why this is necessary.

Structural improvements

1.      Remove speakers and rub interior with Boiled Linseed Oil - going to do this since I have the cases cracked open

2.      Rear Gasket Seal - not 100% sure on this one - seems like it is a some do some dont.  My perspective is that if they werent there originally, why mess with success? Any thoughts here?

3.      Update Binding Posts - again not 100% on this one - seems like there is a split on this as well.   Similar question as above

4.      Redo grilles - have seen it mentioned, but my grilles are in excellent shape so dont think I am going to do it

 

Thanks in advance.

 

John

John, that all sounds very good and I would do the same. In my case, when I had my 1977 LaScala restored in a similar way, it has the same drivers for midrange horn, Atlas K55V, and the same K77 Alnico, my needs for change were slightly different. I had sent the K77 to a good speaker shop with the request to a) remagnetize the magnet and b) have the diaphragm changed. They remagnetized the magnets, which resulted in 1.5 dB more output and a correspondingly higher frequency, approx. 16 Khz. But they tested the original diaphragms and they wholeheartedly recommended that I continue to use the old diaphragms. The new ones I had supplied were of much poorer quality. They had tested and listened to one and removed it again. However, I recently saw here in the forum that meanwhile original K77 diaphragms from Klipsch are available again. But I have forgotten the thread. Others can help. But if the sound is good as is, I wouldn't change them. I would also not necessarily remagnetize if it sounds good as it is. I've had 1973 Khorns since June 2024 and the K77 Alnico sound very nice and I haven't changed a thing.

What made a difference to my ears are new all-original diaphragms for the Atlas K55V (beside the new midrange gaskets). The old diaphragms had become somewhat harder and more brittle after almost 50 years. It's not the big world but it sounds a bit softer and fuller.

 

Two more points that are perhaps a little subtle but which contributed to the overall listening pleasure. Firstly, I have kept all the original wiring. Roy Delgado from Klipsch had recommended it to maintain the overall impedance of the network. It's a very manageable Xover, but the original components should be kept as much as possible, especially the coils and the autoformer.

Secondly, I shortened all the cables by about 3 mm and re-soldered the cable lugs. I also removed all the soldering points on the Xover, e.g. on the autoformer, and re-soldered them. That really opened up the sound, I think 50 year old soldering points can be renewed for good contact. Also on the woofer. I would leave the K77s as they are or only heat them very briefly to re-solder them. TBH this whole contact measurements could make a more significant difference than buying new binding posts. But that is only me.

[jjptkd]

1 hour ago, Woofers and Tweeters said:

If I understand your question: No, I have not counted them. I have soldered many of my connections if they don't need moving. I sometimes use banana plugs, but I know that only adds terminations to the system. I would lose the bet if I were to claim there to be any detectable difference in sound quality. 

 

 I recommended the "adapter plugs" because it appeared @jschen01 was trying to keep these speakers stock as possible and these are very easy to work with if that's the case. Otherwise yeah, lots of options out there for new binding posts / input cups depending on what you want to do. 

[pcbiz]

5 minutes ago, KT88 said:

But they tested the original diaphragms and they wholeheartedly recommended that I continue to use the old diaphragms. The new ones I had supplied were of much poorer quality. They had tested and listened to one and removed it again.

Same with my old drivers. In fact, I sold my vintage La Scala tweeters and mid drivers to a local high end audio shop, and they used the drivers in a custom speaker build that sold for $5,000. Capitalism makes the world go 'round.

[jschen01]

OK - two steps completed on speaker 1 - Midrange gasket replaced - wasnt brittle but you could see there was a lot of compression.  Inside of cabinets oiled.  One question though - if I rotate the woofers 180 degrees, dont think the connector is going to be long enough to reach the crossover.  Anyone else experienced that?  Again trying to avoid major compromises.  

[geezin']

I had Dean recap mine. Left binding posts OEM and made cables with eyes on speaker end. Used to build motorcycles for a living and prefer a clean look as well as original equipment when possible unless there's a problem.

 

[jschen01]

OK finished - love the sound.  Here are a couple of pics 

First pic - cabinets with Linseed oil - wow was that smelly!!!!

Second pic - Recapped cross over with JEM Capacitors installed

Third pic - old midrange gaskets - they didnt look to be in too bad a shape.

Fourth pic - speakers reinstalled in cabinet.  

Fifth pic - the finished product.....

 

Thanks for all the guidance

 

Some things I did not do

Anything related to sound deadening - gasket on back cover, any additional insulation in the cabinet, etc.  Have been happy with the original sound so didnt want to mess with success

Replace the diaphragms - never heard anything that indicated I needed to so left wll enough alone

Rotate woofers 180 degrees - couldnt understand why this would be necessary, and also would have had to change out the wiring (which I didnt want to do).

 

 

 

 

[OO1]

On 2/10/2025 at 11:57 AM, jschen01 said:

  - Recapped with JEM Capacitors  

Fantastic