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Klipschorn False Corner Dimensions


Deang

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False corners need to be tightly sealed against the tailboard and extend out a minimum of 4' to complete the bass horn. Anything short of that is a compromise and the khorn's bottom end will suffer but there are a lot worse compromises out there. One huge benefit of the FCs is that the Khorn is no longer confined to the corner. Having the semi-mobile corners allows me to locate the speakers anywhere I want - even nearfield. Other than the strain of moving the Khorns and FCs around the room, speaker placement is much easier and you can fine tune your image and soundstage til the cows come home

I built a compromised version using 2 4x8' pcs of birch plywood, 2 4x8' pcs of med density MDF and 4 4x4' sheets of damping material (same stuff as Dynamat). I cut the plywood and MDF in half and sandwiched the damping material between them with glue and screwed it all together. The FC only covers the bass bin and one panel is 2" short of 4'. I also need another pc of plywood to complete the bottoms and I may want to veneer the FC in walnut to match the Khorns but even with these deficiencies, I get noticeably more pronounced bass- certainly enough to justify the trouble. I'd recommend the FC to anyone with placement issues, even if they do have good corners.

Have fun, Bryan

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hi dean,take i75 north to i 69 east to center exit go right on center go to lapeer you will see walli,s turn lift go to genesee stay on genesee rd. it will be three roads down the mane of my street is alcona dr. last house on right side 1514 and my number is 810 743 0979.please call me be for coming up thank you john

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Dean,

If you are able to purchase K-horns go for it, you won't regret it. IMHO You would be doing yourself a disservice if you settled for anything less. (Being able to purchase K-horns has many aspects!)

I built my false corner frames out of 2x4s and used extra cross bracing over that shown in the Dope from Hope instructions. I used ¾ Baltic birch plywood for the fronts (against the speaker) and ½ plywood for the backs. Everything glued and screwed. I stuffed each corner wall tightly with fiberglass insulation. I then attached a triangular piece of 1/2" plywood as a floor for the speakers to stand on rather than stand on carpeting. With the walls 44½" long, they reach to the front face of the bass bin, and the plywood floor is flush with the front of the speakers.

I didn't make my corners as long as the dimensions in the Dope from Hope because my room is too narrow to accommodate 48" walls. My corners are actually 44 1/2" long and 41" tall (39 1/2" tall is enough to completely cover the bass bin).

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"You're younger than Dean so there is hope that you will get them someday."

Not sure about that, Rick. We're about the same age, Deano just looks older (but looks can be deceiving you know) 3.gif. I may get the Khorns next week, maybe next month. You never know.

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I constructed my ex-false corners, painted flat black, in a manner very similar to Edster's.

40 inches from the back will bring you out flush with the front of the Khorn, and you don't need anything beyond that. But adding in the thickness of the constructed wall, you'd end up having another 4 or 5 inches, hence the 44 1/2 figure. As Builder mentioned a long time ago, Klipsch said 4 feet just because it was a nice round figure. Klipsch's own photograph does not depict a four foot side.

Also, as noted, you get no advantage whatsoever building the false corner to extend above the bass bin. Doing so would make it considerably heavier to move around, add to the cost of materials, and make it tougher to access the speaker wire connections of the crossover.

If your seating area will be fine without toe-in, and your room corners are otherwise good and sound and available, I would NOT make false corners. I'd simply put together one side wall that will cover the offending window. It'd be way easier and probably better.

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  • 17 years later...

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