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KG5.5 crossover question


Deang

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In the top part of this picture of the stock crossover, there is a small ceramic cap in series with a 2.5uF cap. These two caps, along with the inductor make up the series section of the tweeter circuit. I can't for the life of me figure out why Klipsch used this thing. What's killing me is I can't get consistant readings with my capacitor meters. I have two, and one won't register anything, and the other pulls up 11uF, which I don't trust because the damn thing seems too little. One side of the cap, in VERY small letters says NIMF Mexico, the other side says X075 60v.

Any ideas?

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  • 2 weeks later...

DeanG if you are referring to the little round shape orange/red colored component with the two legs that feed into the PCB, I believe STL is right on the money it is a tweeter protection device. It will lower the tweeters output or shut it down completely when operating conditions warrant it. I have seen identical ones in other crossovers. Boy it does not look like there is much to the KG 5.5 Crossover.

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On 3/9/2004 3:27:16 PM Frzninvt wrote:

DeanG if you are referring to the little round shape orange/red colored component with the two legs that feed into the PCB, I believe STL is right on the money it is a tweeter protection device. It will lower the tweeters output or shut it down completely when operating conditions warrant it. I have seen identical ones in other crossovers. Boy it does not look like there is much to the KG 5.5 Crossover.

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no there is not and i had to even solder a component back on once becaues it fell off. I have had a lot of small problems like that with my klipch stuff, except for heritage stuff. I dropped one of my heresy II's from abount three feet and nothing happened to it except for a dent in the corner. my kg 5.5 had the problem i explained already and my klf-20's my midrange stopped working two days after i got it, wire fell off. and one came unglued front and back. One day i came home and the front had fell to the floor, leaning against the speaker. i glued that back and the back started to vibrae, and i had to reglue that back on. Even with these problems i will always be a klipsch owner. Best sounding speakers to my ears.

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Ha! Forgot all about this thread.

Yeah, that's what it is. I finally gave up trying to figure out what it was, and just started going through my Parts Express Catalog. It didn't take long to find them. They are referred to as "polyswitches" or resettable fuses. I'd love to yank it, but don't think I can. The silly thing actually measures .9 of DC resistance, and has some capacitance and inductance properties as well. If I was 100% sure that it caused some major sonic degradation -- I would wind a high Q inductor to take its place. Oh yeah, I would just LOVE winding 44AWG onto a 1/4" bobbin with my power drill. Screw that. 9.gif

Part Number 071-258

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Yes, please fill us in Dean. I was thinking about upgrading the components in my KG5.5 networks too so I am really curious to hear how it turn out for you. Also, if you haven't caulked your horns yet I highly suggest trying it. I did one of mine and did an A-B test, then I promptly caulked the other one! ;)

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On 3/15/2004 10:29:29 AM STL wrote:

Yes, please fill us in Dean. I was thinking about upgrading the components in my KG5.5 networks too so I am really curious to hear how it turn out for you. Also, if you haven't caulked your horns yet I highly suggest trying it. I did one of mine and did an A-B test, then I promptly caulked the other one!
;)

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I have rope caulked mine and Dean is working on my KG crossovers right now

1.gif He did my RF-7 crossovers a month ago and they sound great!!

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  • 3 weeks later...

I just finished the whole rope caulk/dynamat/crossover upgrade thing on my KG5.5s.

I omitted the resettable protection doodad on the crossovers I built. It didn't seem to cause any seriously ill effects - the project still yielded big improvements.

The results are quite satisfying, but the high end is still kind of forward. Especially sibilance - "S"-sounds in voices - really pops out. So I'm going to insert 1-ohm resistors in where the resettable doodads would go.

I mounted my new crossovers on the backs of my speakers so they're very easy to access and tweak. We'll see what happens.

Bryan

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That's what I did -- I put a 1 ohm resistor in place of the polyswitch. The polyswitch did measure .9 on the ohm meter -- so I think the resistor will work.

The new caps also lowered the total ESR in the circuit -- so a little more forward is normal, however -- it should also sound a lot cleaner.

What caps did you use? I hope you didn't use the Solens -- because they're harsh as hell.

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So Solens are harsh, huh? Back before my Klipsch owning days, I had always heard Solen made some quality caps. Could it be they just don't work well with horns? What brands do you recommend?

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My first experience with the Solens was in some Dahlquist DQ-10s I restored. Completely terrible at first, and even after two weeks -- they were only marginally better than the mylars that were in the board. They don't solder their leads on, and the film is less than a hairs width thick. I even tried bypassing them in some Advents -- and I actually preferred the sound of the electrolytics I bought to replace the originals. The Solens are cheap for a reason, and my experience to date is that I can't think of a better way to sabatoge a good project.

My bang for the buck capacitors are the Auricaps and Kimbers. Big money film and foils are the AudioCap PPT Thetas and Hovlands.

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  • 1 year later...
  • 14 years later...

" If I was 100% sure that it caused some major sonic degradation --"

 

Indeed it does degrade sonically in treble region (big time, if I may say). Jump it with a piece of silver wire will release full potential of the original design intent. Namely, the cup effects are gone. Midrange integration becomes seamless and treble extension / delineation up with air.

 

BUT...Do this only with an already clean and transparent system. If the internal wires are replaced and BC Ti diaphragms installed then few others compare.

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