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Owens Corning 700 Series Rigid Fiberglass


artto

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The company that produces the program (Alldata) has it pretty well protected that it's tough to get any of the info out of the program into another format. I would guess it could be done by someone, I jest ain't thet smrt. If I had a scanner I could, but alas, no scanner. 27 pages for the v-6, btw, book time is 12 hours, and that's assuming you have air tools and a good grasp of the project at hand.

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Correction - just talked with my stepdad (who gave me the car) - he's been a mechanic for about 100 years or so 2.gif - he said it's hydraulic-locked right now (water in the cylinders) - but he seems to think that it shouldn't be that big of a job.

I'll PM you my address and have you mail them to me. Hopefully he's right (although he confessed that he's never done a head job on an FI, either)

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Yeah, it's not a fun job. Even when I worked at the Toyota dealer, (7 years) no one looked forward to getting stuck with one, seems no one could ever make time on em, you just didn't do the job often enough to get good at it. Toyota had a big problem with the head gaskets on the V-6 4-Runners and P-Ups, they ended up picking one guy at the shop to do all of em, he hated it at first, always lost a couple hours on each one, but they were doing a couple every week, so after a while he had it down to where he'd MAKE 4-5 hours on each one. Then everyone was pissed that he got "special pay" simply because he was doing a boring, repetitive, albeit well paying job all the time.

If you haven't had a catastrophic failure yet, between you and me, I'd get a package of the General Motors Cooling System Sealing Tabs and stick em in the radiator. Follow the directions on the package, it could very well seal the leak and make the vehicle serviceable for quite a bit longer. GM part # is 3634621, any GM dealer will have em on hand. The above mentioned Toyota dealer was also a Chevy/Cadillac dealer, I was their Caddy electronics specialist, we used these tabs quite often and never had a complaint of them plugging up heater core or radiator passages.

HUSH about the tabs, I have a 90 Camry scheduled for Monday that's been going through coolant with no visible leaks. 2.gif Just kiddin.

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LOLOL.. amazing sometimes how the plot can thicken as one write a reply. So you HAVE had a catastrophic failure. Forget the tabs idea, too late for that. Now it gets really sticky. If the engine is hydrolocked, a couple things... First, and most unlikely, is that there could be a bent rod. NEARly impossible, but a left field option. Next, and somewhat possible, is that before the gasket leaked that badly, it had been seeping coolant into the oiling system and has eaten up the crank/main/cam bearings. Not often, but I've seen it whrere you spend that grand doing head gaskets, finally get the engine running, and have a bad knock from the bottom end as soon as the engine fires up. NOT a good feeling, and not a good phone call to have to make to the customer. BEST, and most likely scenario, is that no internal damage was done, and that a few late nights spent in the garage will have her running down the road again. It might not be a bad idea to look into pricing on a used engine, especially if the car has high miles on it. Will definatly be more $ up front, but the whole engine replacement is only 13.7 hours, and eliminates the possiblity of having other problems once you get done, and most used engines come with some sort of warranty, 90 days, 6 mths, 1 year, whatever you can find.

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On 3/13/2004 3:36:29 PM Champagne taste beer budget wrote:

LOLOL.. amazing sometimes how the plot can thicken as one write a reply. So you HAVE had a catastrophic failure. Forget the tabs idea, too late for that. Now it gets really sticky. If the engine is hydrolocked, a couple things... First, and most unlikely, is that there could be a bent rod. NEARly impossible, but a left field option. Next, and somewhat possible, is that before the gasket leaked that badly, it had been seeping coolant into the oiling system and has eaten up the crank/main/cam bearings. Not often, but I've seen it whrere you spend that grand doing head gaskets, finally get the engine running, and have a bad knock from the bottom end as soon as the engine fires up. NOT a good feeling, and not a good phone call to have to make to the customer. BEST, and most likely scenario, is that no internal damage was done, and that a few late nights spent in the garage will have her running down the road again. It might not be a bad idea to look into pricing on a used engine, especially if the car has high miles on it. Will definatly be more $ up front, but the whole engine replacement is only 13.7 hours, and eliminates the possiblity of having other problems once you get done, and most used engines come with some sort of warranty, 90 days, 6 mths, 1 year, whatever you can find.

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If coolant had seeped into the cam/crank area, wouldn't the oil be grey?

The car has a ****load of miles on it. 270K to be exact. An engine replacement wouldn't be a bad idea. I can call around to the local junkyards and see what's available.

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You are correct, griff, if the coolant had gotten into the oil it would have a "peanut butter" look and consistancy. You're probably safe to do the gaskets and keep yor fingers crossed when you fire it up, but needed to make sure you were aware of all the possible scenarios. You also need to keep in mind that there could be a crack in a cylinder head causing the coolant to enter the cylinder. Need to get both heads cleaned and pressure checked before putting em back on the engine, if they DO find a crack, then you're looking for a head. Or two. Which isn't all bad, I'm constantly looking for head, but seems my wife has other things on her mind.... DAMN, sorry, lost my train of thought there. Seriously, you can do the job if you're good with engines, the EFI is all on top, has nothing to do with the actual head replacement, just means some more wires to remember where they came from, but less vacuum hoses. Most all of the wiring connectors are specific to where they go, so unlikely you'll try and plug a TPS harness into a MAF connector, they just won't match up. One more thing, the head bolts on these are 12 point and VERY tight, you'll probably want to track down a good tool dealer, Snap On, MAC, etc, for a 14 mm 12 point impact to get em out, I wouldn't be surprised if you ended up using air or a 4 foot pipe on a breaker bar to get em loose. If one of em doesn't come loose and you strip the head of the bolt, which has happened before, even with the right tools and the right techniques, take a quick look around to make sure there are no women or children around, cause there will be a full sailors vocabulary streaming forth from your mouth for the next 5 minutes!!

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On 3/13/2004 4:03:26 PM Champagne taste beer budget wrote:

Need to get both heads cleaned and pressure checked before putting em back on the engine, if they DO find a crack, then you're looking for a head.

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Indeed, I was planning on getting them resurfaced.

I'm still toying with the "ghost coast" idea... 11.gif

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But officer, there USED to be a guard rail here over the gorge. I just can't believe that my parking brake cable broke, I guess they just don't buld things like they used to.

(I heard nothing, I know nothing, I saw nothing, in fact, I was out of the country on business when this whole discussion occured, and had no access to the Klipsch website, or any of it's affliates, nor any internet access at all, in fact, the island I was on didn't even have electricty, and the Naval Installation on said island used enough sub harmonic messaging to render any and all satallite communication impossible, and besides, my wife had me out snorkling on the reef from 1 to 5 p.m. on Sat, March 13, 2004, you can call her at the Pentagon and ask her!!!)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Artto: The Roxul semi rigid board product I looked at is RXL 40. In 4" thickness, it is $ 1.25 Canadian a square foot. It is manufactured out of basalt rock and slag ( mineral wool fiber ), it will not absorb water, does not burn and sheds less than a comparable fibreglass product. I found a local wholesaler who is bringing me in a bundle for $ 40 cdn. ( roughly $30 usd ) If anyone else would like a look at the products they offer, the website is www.roxul.com. $ 3.85 u.s. a square foot for Owens corning 705 4" is a little on the steep side, I think.

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Ha! Na man don't take it to the private area on my account... It's not my thread. I just thought it was funny.

Now if you hijack mine and artto's thread, well, I'll just have to send Gwueedo to take care of your knee caps. 11.gif

9.gif

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On 3/24/2004 1:45:39 AM m00n wrote:

Ha! Na man don't take it to the private area on my account... It's not my thread. I just thought it was funny.

Now if you hijack mine and artto's thread, well, I'll just have to send Gwueedo to take care of your knee caps.
11.gif

9.gif

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LOL - we took it to private a week before you noticed! 6.gif

Gettin' a little slow on the draw, there, partner?

cowboy.jpg

9.gif9.gif9.gif9.gif

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1. Griff, you get mail yet?

2. Had a thought last night I wnted to bounce off you guys/gals brains. Does anyone have any experience with the spray on expanding foam insulation? Haven't started looking for info on it's acoustical properties yet, but thought it might be a great way to seal any and all potential air leaks to outside the room. Could be done in an hour or two I'd guess, rather than the hours/days it would take to try and caulk every seal around every joist/stud. It may be that the cost would be prohibitive, just starting on this idea. Comments?

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I would think spray foam would be good for what your asking about, sealing up a room audio wise, but I would question it's use for accoustic traps and what not... Not say it would not be good for it, just that I've never heard of anyone using it for absorbtion.

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Not so much for traps, but to eliminate sound leakage to other areas of the house. I found a local installer that is a customer of ours, quoted me $750 for 3 inches of this stuff applied to the three walls and the ceiling.

http://www.sealection500.com/techinfo.htm

Not applying it to the outside wall, don't care if the sound gets out to the dirt on the other side of the wall. ;) Although I'm sure someone will poo-poo that idea due to reverbation or some such thing.

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Good lord! i would hope that stuff stops the sound of a freight train outside your house for that price. I mean, hey, maybe it's worth it. I really don't know but geebers.

For me, when I did all my construction of my room, it was not to keep sounds from coming in, it was to keep low frequencies from escaping out into the neighborhood. That was my primary concern.

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