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Dale W

Building a " Belle " ?

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2 minutes ago, ellisr63 said:

I will have to logon my pc I guess as my android doesn't show a signature.

 

Here's a direct link to my build.  Maybe it will help.

 

 

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I was reading an old post, and saw where it was suggested to run a 45* piece of wood from the top to the bottom of the bass bin in each rear corner. They said it was the same size as the center splitter was except the full length. Is anyone else doing this? I seem to recall this being in my LaScalas too. Since I will be starting this in a few weeks, I want to know whatever mods will be beneficial. Also is it ok to use a 15c 4ohm instead of the 8 ohm?

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I didn't use those in the corners in mine.  Most said it really didn't matter much.

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Does anyone know if the Emminence 15c requires a spacer ring?

Sent from my SM-T550 using Tapatalk

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9 hours ago, ellisr63 said:

Does anyone know if the Emminence 15c requires a spacer ring?

Sent from my SM-T550 using Tapatalk
 

I built a spacer into the motor board of my diy La Scala for the 15C. I used 1/4” MDF.

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On 9/19/2018 at 11:45 AM, ellisr63 said:

Also is it ok to use a 15c 4ohm instead of the 8 ohm?

 

You should use a 4 ohm woofer. The horn loading will bring it up to an effective 8 ohms.

 

Bruce

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Thanks, I will be starting my build as soon as we come back from vacation next month...just trying to get all my parts ready. Does anyone know how many sheets of plywood, and veneer it takes for a pair of bass bins?

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My carpenter (not a speaker builder, but a local furniture builder) wants to build the cabinets out of real wood instead of MDF or plywood. I have seen some expensive speaker cabinets on the net that are built out of real wood too. I am worried about the would expanding or cracking, and leaking...what do you think? 

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3 minutes ago, ellisr63 said:

My carpenter (not a speaker builder, but a local furniture builder) wants to build the cabinets out of real wood instead of MDF or plywood. I have seen some expensive speaker cabinets on the net that are built out of real wood too. I am worried about the would expanding or cracking, and leaking...what do you think? 

By real wood do you mean strips of wood fastened together to make a sheet? I'm sure if it's braced well enough and fastened correctly it would be fine. That would be a lot of work though, and will add to the cost. Are you wanting to apply a veneer, or just finish the wood?

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Yes, I was planning on veneering the wood,  but real wood would eliminate the need to veneer. I have also seen it recommended to add a 1/4" layer of the real wood of your choice as a top layer. 

 

An idea I just thought of after reading more on real wood vs bamboo plywood (cannot afford), vs baltic birtch plywood...use MDF for the center section, and plywood for the outter box (I am still debating on whether or not to have the whole cabinet veneered or just the outter, and have the mouth area done in black... I have even thought about doing the whole cabinet built of MDF and painted in a solid color. Though I could just have it built entirely out of MDF, and then have a nice 1/4" layer applied. I have seen some beautiful cabinets that were stained blue too...so many options. My favorite wood is the Yucatan Rosewood that was in the old adverts for the Cerwin Vega S1 speakers years ago.

 

In Mexico some options are much cheaper than in the USA, and other options are much more expensive.

 

37 minutes ago, Ceptorman said:

By real wood do you mean strips of wood fastened together to make a sheet? I'm sure if it's braced well enough and fastened correctly it would be fine. That would be a lot of work though, and will add to the cost. Are you wanting to apply a veneer, or just finish the wood?

 

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4 minutes ago, ellisr63 said:

In Mexico some options are much cheaper than in the USA, and other options are much more expensive.

 

This is what I will probably do when we retire to the Philippines. As Armando mentioned to me, I can ship all my drivers over and have my cabinets built there for much less than the cost of shipping larger cabinets over (unless I make a flat pac for the cabinets...).

 

Bruce

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Just now, Marvel said:

 

This is what I will probably do when we ritre to the Philippines. As Armando memtioned to me, I can ship all my drivers over and have my cabinets built there for much less than the cost of shipping larger cabinets over.

 

Bruce

In Mexico.I have to pay a 17% duty unless I bring it in personally via car or truck into Mexico as personal goods. I was looking at getting a pair of Klipsch k402 horns imported, and it would be close to $3,600 for a pair. This is why I am looking at getting them built here. Labor is dirt cheap...just need to decide on the material, and finish I like, and not affect the sound in a bad way.

 

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I can ship just about anything to the Phils for $120. It just needs to fit a box that is 24x24x36 inches. Weight doesn't matter. You do have to claim everything, which some are reluctant to do because there are times when boxes are stolen or some of the contents get stolen.

 

That size would count out some K-402 horns. 😳

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2 hours ago, Marvel said:

I can ship just about anything to the Phils for $120. It just needs to fit a box that is 24x24x36 inches. Weight doesn't matter. You do have to claim everything, which some are reluctant to do because there are times when boxes are stolen or some of the contents get stolen.

 

That size would count out some K-402 horns. 😳

Yup, same problem here...in addition our duty is calculated on total cost including shipping. :(

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I just came across this post in the DIY forum...post #60.

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128681

Wood & Varnish

 

What would happen if I was to make the dog house out of 3/4" MDF, then glue the 1/4" on the inside to it (without making the doghouse larger), and then line the enclosure with 2" of Roxul to dampen the enclosure? Would the Roxul make the inside of the doghouse appear to be as big as it originally was prior to adding the layer or 1/4"? I am thinking it would read an the backwave of the doghouse although it would reduce the cavity size...hence the reason for using Roxul.

What do you think...good idea or not?

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5 hours ago, ellisr63 said:

My carpenter (not a speaker builder, but a local furniture builder) wants to build the cabinets out of real wood instead of MDF or plywood. I have seen some expensive speaker cabinets on the net that are built out of real wood too. I am worried about the would expanding or cracking, and leaking...what do you think? 

 

I've always understood that (as you say) your concern is going to be the wood breathing (expanding/contracting) and over time, maybe creating an issue for you.

 

If you want that....what if instead, you built it out of plywood (I don't know how big a fan I am of MDF....  ok, I might have a clue, I don't care for it too much)

 

Anyway, built from plywood and instead of veneering with 1/16" or 1/8" veneer.....  wrap it in solid wood.  now, the infrastructure will be sturdy and inert yet the exterior will be whatever fancy wood you want to use.

 

On the Jubilee bass bin, I've thought of taking the front panel, cut some Zebrawood planks (3/4" thick unless I cut them thinner) and attach them for aesthetic use only.  Around them, frame them in with a bezel made of Ebony that might be 3/4" thick (would be same as the Zebrawood) and maybe 3/4" wide.

 

Could really use any wood, I just happen to like the more bold patterns.

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I also love bold patterns, and Zebra wood is one I like. I was think I g of trying to get a Mexican wood since they are less expensive here, and would love a nice wild pattern like this... https://pin.it/sjjqvpmq2noois

One of my all time favorite, and it is from Mexico... It is no longer allowed to be exported so I do not know yet if I can even get it either.default_sad.png

Mesquite is another wood that is somewhat hard that I van get down here pretty inexpensively. It will not be very expensive to do either if I only do the exterior in real wood... I could stain the interior or paint it black(depending on whether or not I want the grain to show). The next thing I have to decide is if I want a full width grill to keep our cat out. A full side grill would def go good with a real wood exterior plus it could be flush mounted to the real woo concealing the extra 3/4" wood.

 

I've always understood that (as you say) your concern is going to be the wood breathing (expanding/contracting) and over time, maybe creating an issue for you.

 

If you want that....what if instead, you built it out of plywood (I don't know how big a fan I am of MDF....  ok, I might have a clue, I don't care for it too much)

 

Anyway, built from plywood and instead of veneering with 1/16" or 1/8" veneer.....  wrap it in solid wood.  now, the infrastructure will be sturdy and inert yet the exterior will be whatever fancy wood you want to use.

 

On the Jubilee bass bin, I've thought of taking the front panel, cut some Zebrawood planks (3/4" thick unless I cut them thinner) and attach them for aesthetic use only.  Around them, frame them in with a bezel made of Ebony that might be 3/4" thick (would be same as the Zebrawood) and maybe 3/4" wide.

 

Could really use any wood, I just happen to like the more bold patterns.

 

Sent from my SM-T550 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

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I just noticed your location.  My dad and ex step mother lived in San Miguel de Allende after they sold their big ranch in Virginia Dale, Colorado.  They lived  for a couple of years and sold the place after someone poisoned one of their dogs (German Shepherd) and dad got sick of it.  They had a beautiful location.  But, they were ready to travel and sold that place, bought a Prevost, and traveled in that for awhile.  Eventually bought another ranch in Westcliffe, CO and divorced soon afterwards.  lol

 

But it's a beautiful place, I hear.  

 

Me personally, I was happy building mine out of Baltic Birch and putting veneer on them versus having to connect solid pieces of wood via biscuit joint, etc.  I don't see there being a major advantage in using solid for the amount of work it would take.  Also, the doghouse (center section) doesn't really need to be any thicker than 3/4" as it's pretty solid with the shape that it is.  Maybe the outside and back walls of the cabinet but just make sure you don't change any of the dimensions on the horn flare as it exits.

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