edwardre Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 Bass bin is 22.5"...that brings things to within 1/8"! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Edward, I have another question concerning the "front" vertical piece... It seems to be an "add-on" - is there another piece behind it? I am asking as it doesn't appear to join flush with the "side" back chamber pieces, but appears to have an offset, that is, it seems to stick out a bit (if that makes any sense). If so, how much, and what is the nature of the joint(s)? Thanks, DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Rats, nice table saws start at about $600, really nice ones are triple that. Bummer deal. I need to sell something.... There's no grill on the angled sides of the doghouse? The grille I see in the pic looks like it goes between the doghouse and the side panel. I always thought there was grill cloth up the side of the doghouse, but I've never seen a Belle in person. Is the angled side of the doghouse just painted flat black? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Tom, I gather that they are painted black on the insides, from what Ed posted. To get a good look at the grills, double click on the Belle on the home page Heritage selection. You can download a fairly large detailed picture of the front and print it out. It is somewhat useful for showing how the grills fit in there in sort of a "v". That is how I saw the latest part that I'm confused about. DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 D-Man Thanks for pointing out that enlargement, I didn't know about that. It's made like I thought, so there must be more than one grill frame similar to the one Edward posted the pic of. I wish I could see one of these in person before I start cutting wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Yeah, I know the feeling! Hey, I picked up a used Craftsman table saw for $200 with extensions, not that that will help me... It's out on my back porch, in pieces. DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 I can find those too, but I wanted to use baltic birch because of it's excellent properties. It comes in 5 x 5 sheets, needs to be cut and straight right down the middle. That's a 30" rip, not many saws do that. I thought the baltic birch deal was cool because the stuff is killer strong, stable and easy to veneer with whatever a guy wanted to end up with. Plus 3/4" panels of walnet and suchlike run around $125 around here. (Phx, Az.) I'll keep looking. I may have found a source of financing. I've done a detailed scale layout cut sheet drawing, I can get a whole Belle out of 2 5 x 5 sheets of baltic birch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted July 29, 2004 Share Posted July 29, 2004 Tom, why not make an initial cut using a clamp on straight edge and circular saw and then re-rip the sheet more precisely with a std (200$ used) table saw? I don't know how much waste is left over in those 5x5 sheets, but I doubt the pieces are exactly 29-15/16" each? You'd be surprised on the cut you can get using a circular-saw/clamp-on-straight edge... definitely one which is good enough for running precisely along the table-saw fence. You may already know this, but the Baltic birch sheets aren't exactly 3/4" either but are 18mm (about 11/16") thick. It may seem like a small difference, but it adds up when you are looking for air tight joints. BTW, the leftover I have measures 60-1/16" x 60-1/16" x 11/16". It's a nice product, and weighs about double regular 3/4" plywood (per ft2), but requires an air-nailer. Later... Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted July 29, 2004 Share Posted July 29, 2004 Yeah, I knew about the 11/16" deal, it a metric deal, doesn't cross over to 3/4 exactly. The Belles are supposed to be 30" long, so I figured the 29&15/16 was ok. I thought about the circular saw and guide deal too, but was hoping to start out with a good saw because I'm interested in getting into other furniture building too. Maybe I'll try it. Thanks for bringing it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edwardre Posted July 29, 2004 Share Posted July 29, 2004 Rob's input is precisely what I did to rip the whole sheets. Clamped a straight-edge and used a skilsaw fitted with a new, fine toothed blade. I didn't have to 're-rip' with the table saw, the cut was very clean. DM - No, that is not an add on piece, but rather part of the 'doghouse' itself. That's why I suggested taking the utmost care - even masking or taping it off during construction - to avoid blemishing it during construction. The 'sides' of the doghouse attach directly behind this front piece angling away towards the back of the unit so that the full 3/4" of the frontpiece is exposed. Like I posted earlier, this 3/4" (the thickness of the front piece) is painted black all the way up to the actual face. I painted mine 'satin black' because it seemed to be 'blacker' than flat black, which looked kind of grayish in comparison. In order to make the 'black to woodgrain' transition exact and crisp. I used a piece of iron on wood veneer (the birch), cut to size, then I painted it black, then after it dried completely, I ironed it onto the edge of the frontpiece creating a very clean 'black to woodgrain' transition. Like usual, a picture is worth a thousand words. I will try and photograph this tonight and post tomorrow. Tom - Yes there is indeed a grille on the angled sides of the doghouse. 4 grilles total, two on each side of the front piece. And yes, the angled side of the doghouse - in fact everything 'inside' of the Belle is painted black, though I don't think that klipsch uses flat black but rather a satin or semi-gloss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted July 29, 2004 Share Posted July 29, 2004 Thanks, Edward. That was exactly what I needed. DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted August 6, 2004 Share Posted August 6, 2004 Ok, I'm surprised no one posted up a redrawn version of the Belle plan... so I did one up quickly in AutoCAD. I still have to finish and dimension it... but here is what I got so far. I assumed it too had a splinter like the LaScala... and that it was 13" in height as well. I'll post up a dimensioned version as soon as I have a few minutes... for you guys to check for interpretational errors. Later... Rob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted August 6, 2004 Share Posted August 6, 2004 That's GREAT! Auto-cad looks pretty darn good. Is it easy to use or are you just very good with it? I'm looking at CAD programs, your opinion about it would be welcome! There is one "problem" in the drawing that I can see, the sides overlap the top and bottom for the stock Belle, and your drawing shows the top and bottom pieces overlapping the sides. Is that too nit-picky? DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted August 6, 2004 Share Posted August 6, 2004 Hi Gang, I'd also be interested in tackling a 'Belle' project. Edward, that is some beautiful bookk-matched veneer and the idea of incorporating the projector is very unique indeed. Did you shock-mount the projector in any way to dampen harmful vibrations from the woofer? My projector lamp costs about $400 so would hate to treat it roughly. Is the center 'riser' open in the back for air circulation. Would greatly appreciate being included in any distribution for working drawings. or email colterphoto1@aol.com Thanks, Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted August 6, 2004 Share Posted August 6, 2004 Tom, good luck with your prototype. Ed, thanks for the construction tips, I look forward to finding dimensioned plans and tackling this myself. However, wouldn't it be questionable to build the entire cabinet out of furniture grade plywood, then skimp on interior panels with CDX plywood? I'd be afraid that there might be significant voids that might vibrate with time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dubai2000 Posted August 6, 2004 Share Posted August 6, 2004 I am no DIY person but I wouldn't mind such plans either....perhaps I will find some reliable carpenter... . Thanks a lot in advance. Wolfram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted August 6, 2004 Share Posted August 6, 2004 ---------------- On 8/6/2004 10:29:58 AM D-MAN wrote: That's GREAT! Auto-cad looks pretty darn good. Is it easy to use or are you just very good with it? I'm looking at CAD programs, your opinion about it would be welcome! ---------------- Did you catch fini's thread on AutoCAD? It might be an interesting read for someone who is curious about the software. It's definitely got a pretty steep learning curve... and it helps if you know your way around a manual drafting table. Once you familiarize yourself, it's much quicker than doing it by hand. I was self taught back in the AutoCAD10 (yup, DOS) days. I learnt how to get around but I'm far from being "good" at it. Those guys can really fly! ---------------- There is one "problem" in the drawing that I can see, the sides overlap the top and bottom for the stock Belle, and your drawing shows the top and bottom pieces overlapping the sides. Is that too nit-picky? DM ---------------- Nah... that's exactly the type of info I was looking for, as you are right that I missed that detail in the picture. I'm going to fix it up... and repost it with some dimensioning. At the same time, I'll post some questions about some other details I wasn't sure about... Thanks... Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted August 7, 2004 Share Posted August 7, 2004 That's interesting. I'm under the impression that when Klipsch built hardwood speakers they had mitered corners, no butt joints showing. On the scale plans I've drwn up all four corners of the bass bin are mitered. After I thought about it as little I saw that the bottom corners couls be made with the bottom corners butted up with the side overlapping the bottom. The only way anybody could see the joint would be looking up from the bottom. Not a big issue to me. The front edges would be veneered over with hardwood anyway. Interesting how much detail goes into this. I drew scale plans on graph paper, ended up having to re-do them several time after thinking of stuff like the butt joint deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted August 7, 2004 Share Posted August 7, 2004 Forgot to say, Thanks Formica for taking the time to do those drawings. Nice job. If you have Edwards excel sheet the corrected dimensions are very good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted August 8, 2004 Share Posted August 8, 2004 Ok, here is the second plan revision... and here are some of the questions I came up with when tring to add some detail. BTW, the plan is a little big for just one image, so I split in two for now. ---------------- 12) On my old Khorns the top grill is actually set in about 1/8", is the Belle like that? 3/8" ---------------- Seems like a lot... esp compared to the pictures ---------------- 14) The motorboard and 'grille' are one and the same. See attached photo. It is basically a 3/4" piece of ply with openings cutout for the two horn lens', then the cloth is stapled to this. The sides are constructed from what looks to be 2x4's, with the 3/4" ply glued and screwed to these 2x4's. ---------------- Do you know the depth and width of this pine 2x4 (is it 3-5/8" x 1-1/2"?) ---------------- 5) I am assuming that the throat cavity opening is the typical 3" x 13" one used in the Khorn and La Scala. If so, then there is a capacitance associated with the 13-3/4" circular opening in the motor board. ---------------- I was wondering the same thing if the Belle has a 3"x13" slot? I'm also unsure about the "gasket" with the 13-3/4" opening... as I seem to remember on how a similar gasket was used on some of the early k-horns, and it did (questionably) change the drivers performance. ---------------- The grille dimensions are: 9"x20-7/8" again, with one of the 20-7/8" edges cut at a 45 degree angle. ---------------- I'm guessing all four are the same size? The cut out seems to leave a 1" or 1-1/2" frame... is this correct? More to come... Rob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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