Champagne taste beer budget Posted June 20, 2004 Share Posted June 20, 2004 This is a drawing of our proposed downstairs. The line between the pool table and the couch is a bearing beam, so that room is all open. The only wall that is going to be there is the load bearing wall that spans the downstairs at the bottom of the stairs. To the right of that wall is my area for both the wood shop and the listening room. Originally, this was going to be wood shop and storage, but I though what better time to build a listening room than from the start? Although she agreed at the time, my wife is now starting to want some storage space out of that area of the basement. The total size of that side of the downstairs is 24 x 32. I'm looking for ideas on how to incorporate a storage room in there somewhere while still retaining a decent size shop and correctly proportioned listening room. 8 ft ceilings, bty. I must also maintain an access to the utility room, I had thought about making a small access door underneath the stairs just to get in there to add salt to the water softener or make any repairs as needed, but then thought about getting a piece out, say the furnace, if something completly fails somewhere down the road. Keep in mind I want to maintain two good corners for potential khorns. I have some ideas, but would like to hear from the rest of you before I do anything. Remember, that whole half of the downstairs is open to place walls where I see fit. Hopefully I've described my situation well enough. Thanks in advance for any thoughts. Edit: The wide dark lines are poured cement walls. Already in. The other exterior walls are 2 x 6 and walk out to the lake. At the top of the shop room, the poured wall now only comes around the corner appx 8 inches instead of the several feet in the drawing. The door on that end of the shop was moved to the right side of the room, the window moved a bit left to center it under the windows upstairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted June 20, 2004 Share Posted June 20, 2004 if you move the linen closet out to the current billiard or utility room, you have space to give the guests their own door to the restroom, what is under the stairs? ceiling fans make a room feel 5 degrees cooler, they should come on when someone flicks the light switch, why do you need a utility room next to a shop, outer walls are better for Khorns, dont need separate room foir gurst, just close door at top of stairs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Champagne taste beer budget Posted June 20, 2004 Author Share Posted June 20, 2004 Colin, there is already a door to the bathroom from the guest room, just above the closet towards the pool table. My folks will most likely be staying with us for a few weeks or more every summer to escape the Texas heat, so having a closet in there is imperative, can't live out of only a dresser and suitcase for a month! The utility room is for the water heater, furnace, water conditioner, two boilers for the in-floor heat system, air exchanger, etc. The shop is for the compound miter saw, drill press, table saw, router table, shaper, etc. for wood working. Two different uses, two different rooms. And yes, there will be a ceiling fan or two in the family room area. Any ideas on the other half of the downstairs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipschfoot Posted June 20, 2004 Share Posted June 20, 2004 Sometimes, you can "thicken" a wall by two feet, allowing for shelving/clothes behind bifold or sliding doors. If you did that on the dividing wall between storage and family room/utility room, you can create a 3 ft. thick tunnel in which you could still put your doors to the utility and family rooms from the shop/storage area that you want to now make an audio room. (Or you could do that on an outside wall which would have an insulative effect. That would also give you storage for all the audio crap that you know we all have. You could also just make a huge wall unit instead of frame&drywall walls for storage needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Champagne taste beer budget Posted June 20, 2004 Author Share Posted June 20, 2004 Something I'd thought about was running a wall about 5' out from the bottom of the room and installing 2' wide shelves the whole length of the bottom wall. Figure 3 shelves spaced 2' apart, plus the floor itself, would give 4 shelves 24 feet long, or nearly 100 feet of 2' wide storage with 3' of walking space down the edge of them, should be enough room for manuvuring or searching through boxes. Though it will mean shaving down either the shop, listening room or both. Even so, as I'm sure you all know, if mama ain't happy, ain't NOBODY happy! BTY, the storage isn't so much for my stereo stuff as it is for seasonal decorations, old "I'll fit into these when I lose weight" clothes, and just the "stuff" that seems to accumulate over the years. I'd proposed putting that stuff into the rafters over the garage, but she doesn't want to hassle with the pull down stairs, rafters and such when she goes to get something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael hurd Posted June 20, 2004 Share Posted June 20, 2004 How about outdoor storage in a small garden shed for items that won't be damaged by heat / cold / moisture? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipschfoot Posted June 20, 2004 Share Posted June 20, 2004 ---------------- How about outdoor storage in a small garden shed for items that won't be damaged by heat / cold / moisture? ---------------- Bugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Champagne taste beer budget Posted June 20, 2004 Author Share Posted June 20, 2004 Not only bugs, but we'd need to get a building permit, even for one of the small prefab ones, and we are only allowed a certain amount of ground coverage given the size of our lot and with the house, deck, patio, garage, sidewalk and driveway, we are already bumping up against the percentage limit we are allowed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted June 21, 2004 Share Posted June 21, 2004 I'm not sure which part of the large shop room will become your listening room, but you may want to join the utility and proposed storage room together to optimize the left over space in the utility as storage. It also give you only one access door for both. BTW, I did something similar when i remodelled my basement the storage is 5' wide, but since I only use it for that purpose I put 2' selves on one side and 1' wide one on the other, leaving 2' in the centre for access. The shelves are from floor to ceiling, and are spaced exactly to fit the storage containers (most are 12" to 16" apart) to maximize the space. It works well for me and is quite neat. Later... Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted June 21, 2004 Share Posted June 21, 2004 This more like what you mentionned...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Champagne taste beer budget Posted June 21, 2004 Author Share Posted June 21, 2004 So, your first time working with a drawing, huh? Actually, you done good, sir, nice work, I like that idea. The wall into the utility room would have to remain though, as it's load bearing, but could still leave the door there. Would leave me a listening room approx 19 x 20, and if trying to avoid the 19' size to reduce a/c hum, could go to 18 x 20. Would create approx 15 room modes below 200 hz with a gap between the lowest ones at 28 and 31 and the next at 56 and 62, but gives me a new thought as to where to put some storage and still keep the two good corners. Thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Champagne taste beer budget Posted June 21, 2004 Author Share Posted June 21, 2004 Yeah, that was my original thought, but I think I like the first drawing better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted June 21, 2004 Share Posted June 21, 2004 ---------------- On 6/21/2004 11:27:12 AM Champagne taste beer budget wrote: So, your first time working with a drawing, huh? ---------------- yup... first time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Champagne taste beer budget Posted June 22, 2004 Author Share Posted June 22, 2004 You're a quick study, aren't ya? Maybe you could give fini a few lessons on his autocad if he comes back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Champagne taste beer budget Posted December 11, 2004 Author Share Posted December 11, 2004 Well, SHMBO has decided that she wants the one side of the load bearing wall sheetrocked before Christmas when we have my family coming to visit for a few days. This is the wall that seperates the shop/listening room/storage area from the rest of the basement. All that is required is to do the side that is on the living area. Without doing a bunch of searching, can someone give me a quick answer as to if that wall needs to be, or should be, sealed tightly, i.e. caulk around all the seams/stud faces/electrical outlets etc, or will doing that to the other side of the wall suffice once it gets done. I'll go with your recommendations, since even though it would be easier to just throw up the walls, I'd rather make em right the first time around. Thanks for any input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted December 12, 2004 Share Posted December 12, 2004 Yes... you should seal both sides... especially since you can do it relatively easily now. Sound, like air, will make it's way through any crack. Caulking everthing both sides will help reduce the number of air leaks you will have. later... Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Champagne taste beer budget Posted March 21, 2005 Author Share Posted March 21, 2005 Well, back to the work on the wall. If you referance the images formica so nicely posted earlier, the sheetrock on the family room side of the wall has it's first layer up, every stud and header/footer has sealer along it's length/width. If you're standing by where the TV is shown in the family room, looking at the ceiling, the floor joists from upstairs run perpendicular to the wall, and are continuous, extending cleanly over the top of the existing wall. 14-18" high, I forget. What's the best way to fill in that part of the ceiling to prevent sound transfer from one side of the wall traveling over the wall, through the joists, and over the ceiling in the next room? Does that make sense? If not, I'll grab a picture, I was going to yesterday when I was thinking about it, but the camera was at the office. Advice please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redtop Posted March 22, 2005 Share Posted March 22, 2005 If you are looking to stop sound transfer through any wall, check out a product called Green Glue over at AVSForum. I needs two layers of drywall to work best, but it will stop sound transmission, before it get to the studs. Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Champagne taste beer budget Posted March 22, 2005 Author Share Posted March 22, 2005 Thanks, Red Top. I already have plans for stopping sound from getting through the wall, my current concern is how to prevent it from traveling OVER the wall, through the floor joists for the upstairs. Currently there is no ceiling of any type anywhere in the downstairs, I may end up doing double sheetrock with channel over the entire area, but that's a LOT more sheetrock, the entire area is roughly 2100 square feet. Figure 260 4x8 sheets for double layer. I'd rather just do the area over the shop and listening area, but am still concerned about it traveling through the floor joists. IIIIIIIIIIII I I I I I I I I I I I I IIIIIIIIIII XXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXX If that comes out in the post, imagine the X's are the wall, the lower level of I's are the upper plate, the vertical I's are the joists, and the upper row of I's are the subfloor upstairs. *I didn't think that would come out quite right, but you get the idea. I hope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
customsteve01 Posted March 22, 2005 Share Posted March 22, 2005 Resilient Bar What about using these, attach tese to the joist and then the sheetrock to the bars. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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