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False corners screwed into K horns?


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On 8/18/2004 3:51:15 PM IndyKlipschFan wrote:

dean.. Could/Would you build this as a kit??? Painted white just like yours??? sent in the mail? Call it the k horn false wall kit??

I am serious here, what would it run??

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Now I'm glad I thought of that! 9.gif Might be a goer. It would resolve many would be Klipschorn owner's placement problems so they could seriously consider purchasing the mighty 'K'.

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  • 7 months later...

I want to make the same corners as Dean's, but would it be OK to modify them so they do not flare out as far? I was thinking of cutting the sides back so they look like a half diamond (top View) instead of the bottom of a triangle. The speaker front would protrude further with an apron that angled back and the sides would come short about 6 more inches.

falsecorners1.zip

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Interesting. I was just rereading this thread yesterday after searching for it.

Looks like we'll be moving south later this year (going to contract today) and the new media room would benefit from false corners.

Shorter side walls will cause the bass to roll off at about 100 Hz, causing you to miss all the "good stuff" that the Klipschorn is so famous for. I think the best you could do aesthetically is to either do as Dean did (white), or some kind of veneer to match either its surroundings or the Klipschorn itself.

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The white would have worked good if I had taken the time to repaint the whole room in the same color. You really need to do that if they are going to be sitting out where everyone can see them.

I'm down -3db at 35Hz with that setup.

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The way I have them angled in (Not fit in corners), I need to boost the bass on my preamp way up. The McIntosh bass EQ males noise- (Maybe Dean can shed some light here), so I cant use it. I used the bass warble tones I downloaded sounded full down to about 25Hz. I could not measure them, but there was NOT the 62.5hz drop out that I experienced with the ForteIIs. SO,,, If I make the partial horns as above, will it improve the tightness of the bass that I am getting already?? What is the best compromise so I do not need the whole 60" flare??? Thanks, Bob

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In my previous house I had to use one khorn off of a corner (about 10ft from the corner) and I didn't notice any loss of bass (I even measured it). The loss of bass at the extreme end was the same (35hz down perhaps 10 db or so). I don't see how you're getting -3db at 35 hz without some eq.ing. So your 35hz is -3db-what's the output between 100-200hz? I don't believe there is any magic in false corners and tightly sealing the boxes to the corners. The response is basically fixed from the throat area.

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Permanently attached false corners worked for me.

I know this is heretical, but in the mid 70s I used four Speakerlab SK-Horns powered by a Dynaco ST-400 for a mobile DJ business. Knowing the speakers would be moved often and that real corners would not always be availableread NEVERI used the plywood shipping crates to make false corners attached to each speaker.

I never measured the difference in bass response between placements in real corners and freestanding with the false corners, but there appeared to be no difference. In either configuration the bass was prodigious and tight. One customer who called to schedule a return engagement asked if the price quoted included the drummer. It was all I could do to convince her that there had not been a drummer at the earlier engagement.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

The one time I met PWK he was surprisingly diplomatic about my confessed use of the Speakerlab copies. He allowed that it was better to subject the impostors, rather than real Khorns, to the abuse of 600 watts of SS power, junior high students and frequent assaults by hand-truck.

Actually, they were perfect for the task. Unloading four black plywood obelisks never failed to impressneither did the sound. Invariably, as the first speaker was unloaded, someone would ask, Is that the speaker? to which I would reply, Yes. There are three more.

The size made it impossible for someone to walk off with one of the speakers when my back was turned. I did have to put hardware cloth (wire mesh) over the mouths of the squawker horns and over the backs, to prevent mischief. Once a napkin had been stuffed into a squawker horn and another time a kid unscrewed an Atlas squawker driver. I got it back after the principal of the school announced that there would be no more dances until it was returned.

If I ever supplement my <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" />Cornwalls and Hereseys with Khorns, I will again go the affixed false corner route.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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On 8/15/2004 12:26:55 AM DeanG wrote:

Same deal, little different angle.

"<a
http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/download.asp?mode=download&fileID=32740&sessionID={5C5391D5-0FA2-4697-A41F-F167C3178121}">

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Hi Dean, How do you feel about making a flat back corner, to mate with the tail piece, instead of a "V"? My concern is losing room depth from the point extension. If you were to make a 45/45 flush back piece, it would save space, and you could screw straight through it into the Khorn tail piece eliminating the need for the block and side angle screws..

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Thanks Dean,

This whole experience is getting to be a real PITA. Kinda discouraging. I like tweaking, but I also like to gain some ground. The speakers sound great, but I do not have a reference to measure them against.

My walls are plaster/lath and nice and solid, but the floor dips into the room tipping them down. I also have to teeter them up in the back anyway so the HF/MF dont fire over my head. So, If I make a move one way, it seems to bad something else. It seems the design of these speakers makes them not very versitile. What I am hoping/trying to do is get them to sound like they are supposed to without too much fuss, and using the corners' bass coupling for the very low end. Even if I have to keep EQing.

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Hey Dean,

I'm still unclear about the rods. Are they braced against the inside of the tail piece, pressing the horns into the corner? Or are they just to hold the 90 deg. angle into itself? In other words, are they in contact with the horn structure in any way?

Thanks, Bob

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Bob,

From looking at the pics on page 3, I believe that there are two screws on each side at the top of the sides, holding the sides to the top section of the Khorn. The screws go into blocks he glued and screwed on.

The rod just goes through the back to pull the sides together against the horn.

Marvel

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