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OK Let's Start a Cornwall Drawing


Jim E

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As there are a few folks looking for Cornwall plans...

There were several versions of the Cornwall this will take a little input from a few of you Cornwall owners. I looked up Andy's measurements (thank you Andy)and drew up this preliminary file. The version that Andy measured has two port openings. This version has three.

If anyone would care to contribute some accurate measurements on the driver locations/openings and verify the overall dimensions shown, I will be happy to finish this off and post it in high res pdf format.

Cornwall13.jpg

post-16371-13819261271942_thumb.jpg

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On 1/22/2005 4:09:07 PM Jim E wrote:

It would be nice to have the riser or "base" dimensioning of the Corns as well. Perhaps I could include the various changes between the earlier and later models.

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Riser from '75s:

23-3/8"W X 14-1/2"D

1-3/4"H

+/- 15/16" in from front

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I have a couple of question regarding this drawing.

Describe the "Blocking 3/4 by 3/4" on you side view

On the bottom, is there a bottom piece of wood, then another piece of wood on top of that, then the port space, then the port shelf. In other words, is there two pieces of wood for the bottom? If so, Why?

So what Would be the internal volume of the cornwall not subtracing the port shelf, drivers, or any insulation/lining?

Nice drawing, I hope others chime in so that this could be completely understood.

jc

Thanks

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On 1/22/2005 6:39:28 PM IB Slammin wrote:

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On 1/22/2005 4:09:07 PM Jim E wrote:

It would be nice to have the riser or "base" dimensioning of the Corns as well. Perhaps I could include the various changes between the earlier and later models.

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Riser from '75s:

23-3/8"W X 14-1/2"D

1-3/4"H

+/- 15/16" in from front

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Thank you. I'll plug those numbers into the drawing.

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On 1/22/2005 6:59:28 PM jwcullison wrote:

I have a couple of question regarding this drawing.

Describe the "Blocking 3/4 by 3/4" on you side view

On the bottom, is there a bottom piece of wood, then another piece of wood on top of that, then the port space, then the port shelf. In other words, is there two pieces of wood for the bottom? If so, Why?

So what Would be the internal volume of the cornwall not subtracing the port shelf, drivers, or any insulation/lining?

Nice drawing, I hope others chime in so that this could be completely understood.

jc

Thanks

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Thanks JC,

The interior has blocking in all four corners. The front and back have full length blocks also. This is for mounting the front (inset 5/8") and rear baffles (mounted flush). The back is removable with screws, the front is attached permantly and glued.

There is only one panel of material at the bottom. The bottom corner blocks have two side supports above them that space the port shelf to the proper dimension.

Not counting drivers, blocking or the port shelf it looks like 6.388 cuft.

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I'm gettin it now. Looking at that picture, it appears that the wood isn't beveled like suggested in the schematic.

Is the Corn wood ends beveled or not?

Does the corn have any lining inside? If so, how thick and what is the size?

Sorry for so many questions. I will probably keep it up if there continue to be answers.

jc1.gif

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This is very helpful. That lining wouldn't take up too much volume. Again, to me the wood doesn't look to be beveled when put together. I have noticed the Heritage line doesn't do this.

This would probably change your schematic/drawing.

Also, on your front view, the markings to show the width of the top piece of wood don't go all the way to the right side. I am assuming your measurement howeveer is correct.

jc 1.gif

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I believe you'll find that Cornwall (and also Heresy) models constructed of finished hardwood have mitered corners. Those sold as unfinished or decorator models in birch usually have butt joints. I can't recall ever having seen walnut Cornwall or Heresy with butt joints for instance. Somebody might use a raw birch model, stain it and finish it like furniture but that doesn't give it mitered joints and turn it into a hardwood model. Although, the fact that birch is really a hardwood makes it kind of confusing. I have seen a pair of Heresy's with mitered joints and lacquered in birch, so there's even more confusing stuff. Also, it's really only the upper corners that matter, the sides cover the raw edges of the bottom.

Keep the pics and drawings coming, I'm getting more enthused about the Cornwall build project already.

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On 1/22/2005 8:59:23 PM jwcullison wrote:

This is very helpful. That lining wouldn't take up too much volume. Again, to me the wood doesn't look to be beveled when put together. I have noticed the Heritage line doesn't do this.

This would probably change your schematic/drawing.

Also, on your front view, the markings to show the width of the top piece of wood don't go all the way to the right side. I am assuming your measurement howeveer is correct.

jc
1.gif

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No,No. Jim's sketches are wood to wood. The "padding" does not count. Beveled or not; The inside numbers are correct. They should be the base line.

TC

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On 1/22/2005 8:59:23 PM jwcullison wrote:

This is very helpful. That lining wouldn't take up too much volume. Again, to me the wood doesn't look to be beveled when put together. I have noticed the Heritage line doesn't do this.

This would probably change your schematic/drawing.

Also, on your front view, the markings to show the width of the top piece of wood don't go all the way to the right side. I am assuming your measurement howeveer is correct.

jc
1.gif

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JC,

You are correct. I placed the right drawing extension line in the wrong spot. I rushed a little doing the drawing but what do you want for 30 minutes of work. The final version will be checked much closer. I have updated the drawing with the base dimensions supplied by I.B.Slammin and corrected the misplaced dim line.

The mitered corners vs. butt jointed corners has been explained...in the post above. Thank you by the way. The explaination makes perfect sense. I think Klipsch used lumbercore material on their better finishes. That stuff would be just plain ugly with an exposed edge.

As far as the lining goes, I think there are better materials to reduce internal cabinet reflections. The black interior cabinet in the photo above was later covered internally with foam eggcrate material. In fact the use of spun fiberglass actually allows the cabinet to work as if it were larger (more internal volume).

I'm still looking for the cutout sizes for the LF driver and horns with placement measurements.

Any additional measurements and data I get will be added to the drawing. If you see anything that is incorrect, measurements or whatever please make mention of it.

Jim1.gif

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On 1/22/2005 10:31:19 PM BEC wrote:

Here is a picture of the insides of a Cornwall II Vertical.

Bob

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Thanks Bob C.,

Looking at that interior, the padding looks like it could possibly be thin fiberglass with a fabric or paper cover. What is that stuff? Is this a converted Cornwall? I was looking at an old advertisement and the Cornwalls were at one time offered in a vertical horn version. I was left with the impression that these cabinets were intended to be placed horizontal. They offered an optional base for this cabinet as well.

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