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Refinishing LaScalas


jeffgeorge

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These are raw birch that I would like to finish as close to the Klipsch oiled walnut veneer finish as I can get.

There are some minor surface marks on them, so I will obviosly be sanding. What sandpaper grit should I use? Should I hand sand, or use my small DeWalt sander?

What brand and color of stain?

Should I sand, stain, sand again, or will sanding once and applying the stain suffice?

Once the sanding and staining is complete, I was planning on using Watco oil, and maintaining as necessary. Will this work OK on birch?

Sorry for all of the questions - I just want to get it right.

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I think you'll never get the same as real walnut, particularly the grain or depth. (Called "chatoiance" meaning cat's eye in French?)

I've read about the use of scrapers. It seems a fine art. First you have to learn to make the very fine hook on the scraper. Then you have to learn to use it. It is more than I'd try to do on a first project.

I would use 320 grit with a sanding block. Of course you can use a machine. If this is your first time at woodworking, doing things by hand may well be a better way to go. More control, even if more work. The chances of sanding through the top veneer is very slim. Sand in a direction with the grain.

Are yours "raw" or do they have lacquer? If lacquer, you'll have to sand that off, least it interfer with application of stain. That should not be much of a challenge because the lacquer is typically very thin.

The wood working books all say the same thing regarding finishing. Experiment on scrap before doing the particular project. So you should get some birch ply from HD. They have 2 x 4 and they should be willing to cut that panel up into smaller pieces if you don't have a saw.

Granted, your birch, and what you buy are not going to be the same. Probably a good test platform though.

I'm a bit unsure what to tell you about specific stain. Some people recommend analyne (sp) dyes from Berhens. This is in contrast to some stains which have pigment (watered down paint).

On the other hand, HD carries Minwax. It might be easier and the source is nearby. Getting a close color match may be difficult, and this is why experimentation on scraps is necessary. What happens on your wood may not be the same as the pictures at HD.

There are quite a few Klipsch products out there which came out of the factory as birch raw or lacquered birch. People have stained them to attempt to get close to walnut or mahogany. They still look like stained birch.

I like the wipe-on varnishes, also called "oils" as a clear finish. Minwax and Formby has them. I did a cherry piece from the Bartley collection with very good results.

It took one thin coat every night for a week. Wipe on a thin coat no drips or sags - - it doesn't take long. Come back the next night and sand with a Scotchbrite pad, wipe off the dust. Apply another thin coat. Etc.

Five one-hour sessions build up a finish that you can't do with one five-hour session or two 2.5 hour sessions.

While your at it, you'll probably want to use iron-on edge veneer to hide the edges of the ply. Some HD carry this.

Again, the problem with hobby work is that you're doing the final project without any experience in pro-types. That is why I counsel you should get some small pieces of birch and go through all the steps two or three times before turning to the LS.

Best,

Gil

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I have heard that the analine dyes can fade over time. Maybe not a bad thing, as a finish over that would tend to darken over time.

Behlen's (is that who you meant Gil?)makes some great products.

I think, as Gil has mentioned, that the grain is what won't match, no matter how close you get the color. The best I have seen is John ALbright's LS that he had a refinisher do for him, in cherry if I remmeber correctly now. Also had some solid trim put on the fron edges. Gorgeous cabinets.

Marvel

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Marvel is correct. My spelling is bad.

If someone comes to the forum wanting help, we should give best advice and encouragement within reason.

Getting birch to match walnut is a very tall order. I don't know that it has ever been done with any accuracy. Otherwise, it would be common. Which it is not.

It may be that faux paint in the hands of an expert, that would work.

OTOH, some folks are very happy with staining, so I don't want to say it can't be done.

Gil

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