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cabinet back loose on KLF-20


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I was lisetening to some bass intensive music(Perfect Circle) last Friday, and all of a sudden I hear the most god-awful racket coming from my left front speaker. I immediately turned off the system, and switched speakers to confirm it was the left speaker, and not the processor or amp. Anyway, I took it to my dealer on Saturday and he called today and said the wires had come off one of the woofers (not the cause of the weird sound), and that also the back of the speaker cabinet had come loose and was vibrating when a certain low note was played. He has a call in to Klipsch to see what to do next. While relieved that it was not a blown speaker, I am concerned about the back of the cabinet coming apart. Is this something common in this speaker model? I tried a search but came up empty-handed. Any of you guys point me toward more info?

Thanks, Larry

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Ok, I picked up the speakers from the dealer today and told them I would attempt this fix myself. Didn't want to ship them back to Klipsch after reading the nighmare shipping thread here. He was on the phone with the Klipsch rep and he said they had no problem with me doing this.

My question is, what is the best way to get the back off?

Do I need to remove the woofers and heat it up with a hair dryer from the inside and out, then tap on it from the inside gently with a rubber mallet? Is there going to be any problem with the crossovers as far as removal?Input appreciated!

Thx, Larry

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On 5/19/2005 6:19:22 PM texxas guy wrote:

Ok, I picked up the speakers from the dealer today and told them I would attempt this fix myself. Didn't want to ship them back to Klipsch after reading the nighmare shipping thread here. He was on the phone with the Klipsch rep and he said they had no problem with me doing this.

My question is, what is the best way to get the back off?

Do I need to remove the woofers and heat it up with a hair dryer from the inside and out, then tap on it from the inside gently with a rubber mallet? Is there going to be any problem with the crossovers as far as removal?Input appreciated!

Thx, Larry

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In my KLF-20's there's enough slack in the X-over wiring and speaker connections to remove fronts or backs. Once you get the backs off, you'll see what Colter was talking about (a very poor glueing choice - IMO). I would take 1 woofer out (middle) and tap against the "loose" portion of the back until it begins to give way. Once you get it started it should remove fairly easily. Once removed, clean the back piece, put new glue on the mating board or back and re-install it. To be sure of good adhesion, you might want to place pressure on the back piece to ensure a tight bond (clamps, sandbags, etc.)

Good luck to you...

Mitch

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if you were able to get both off without braking any piece then your ahead of the game. that means the front would have come loose eventually. lightly sand the mounting surface all the way around with some 220. clean off and apply an even 1/4 round bead of liquid nails and you should be good to go. when i made my custom klf-20 center channel my front board was ON there. i had to bust it into a million pieces to get it out. the new motorboard was put in with liquid nails and i also added two more braces to support the motorboard.

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On 5/23/2005 9:00:44 PM Jay L wrote:

if you were able to get both off without braking any piece then your ahead of the game. that means the front would have come loose eventually. lightly sand the mounting surface all the way around with some 220. clean off and apply an even 1/4 round bead of liquid nails and you should be good to go. when i made my custom klf-20 center channel my front board was ON there. i had to bust it into a million pieces to get it out. the new motorboard was put in with liquid nails and i also added two more braces to support the motorboard.

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I have the two speakers down to the bare cabinets. I noticed that the two braces are glued in as well. Should I remove them also and liguid nail them too? Also, where exactly did you put the additional braces?

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On 5/25/2005 10:43:42 AM texxas guy wrote:

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On 5/23/2005 9:00:44 PM Jay L wrote:

if you were able to get both off without braking any piece then your ahead of the game. that means the front would have come loose eventually. lightly sand the mounting surface all the way around with some 220. clean off and apply an even 1/4 round bead of liquid nails and you should be good to go. when i made my custom klf-20 center channel my front board was ON there. i had to bust it into a million pieces to get it out. the new motorboard was put in with liquid nails and i also added two more braces to support the motorboard.

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I have the two speakers down to the bare cabinets. I noticed that the two braces are glued in as well. Should I remove them also and liguid nail them too? Also, where exactly did you put the additional braces?

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no need to remove the original braces, though you might clean around them and add some wood glue or liquid nails on the outside of the joints. (the following is referring to my center channel KLF project) i did not take any measurements per se. but i added the top braces in the middle of the cabinet. basically its two identical shelves the motorboard can "rest on". i had both woofers as close as possible to the tweeter and mid horn. i seem to remember sitting the braces about 14 5/8" in from the motorboard inset from end to end. i built the braces exactly how the original ones were and i used some 7 ply plywood to make them. though mdf should work fine too. unfortuneatly i can't even test it out with my system. my stupid tube TV goes nuts with it near it and thats WITH bucking magnets. won't be a problem in a few months as my new house will be done and i will be using my LCD screen.

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On 5/25/2005 10:45:21 AM colterphoto1 wrote:

Tom, I know PopBumber has Kstack crossovers avail for KLH, didn't think it was Dean, but I've been wrong before.

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I'm sending mine to Dean tomorrow. I had contacted Dean a couple of months back, and he definitely has them. Just thought it was more appropriate for someone to contact Dean direct for pricing. I can't wait to get mine done, as I've heard some good news from those who have.

Thanks,

Larry

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Popbumper's (Chris Munson) K-stack is a different animal than what I provide. I simply replace the caps and resistors on the stock boards, and Chris' K-stack replaces the entire stock PCB unit, and because of the larger size of his boards (which he had custom manufactured) affords the opportunity to replace the inductors, as well as the high value electrolytic for the woofer low pass section. Keep in mind however that the K-stack is not a "drop in" replacement, and one needs to have a bit of a DIY spirit in order to resituate and secure the network within the cabinet, and possibly some basic soldering skills (I'm not sure about the latter). Anyone desiring the "Full Monty" should contact Chris. I believe Chris also offers the K-stack in kit form (decent soldering skills a must).

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Dean-

Do you offer your set up as a kit too? I'm fair with soldering so I could spend some time doing it.

Mostly because I had a devil of a time connecting 12 ga. Monster Cable to the PC boards when I rewired them a couple years ago and I could just do it in my livingroom with the drivers still attached.

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