maprik Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 I have replaced the original caps in my E-2 x-over with Audio Cap Thetas from Parts Express and these little buggers are heavy. They aren't attached to anything inside my Heresys. I don't like the idea of them dangling in there so can someone recommend a method of securing them to the x-over board? Thanks!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 I think DeanG uses copious amounts of hotmelt glue. Or you can get ty-wraps with the screw hole and mount that way. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 I only use "copious" amounts of hotmelt with parts mounted on flimsy PCB's that are mounted inside a speaker, and sitting about 6 inches away from a pounding woofer. Believe me, I tried quite a few different adhesives early on with this, and a good quality hotmelt (they are not all the same), once it sets, provides great adhesion as well as some much needed damping. Lightly scuffing the mounting surface and bottom of the capacitors with some 180 sandpaper -- and they aren't going anywhere. Also, most people make the mistake of pressing the cap down into the hotmelt, which only serves to squeeze all of adhesive out from underneath the cap. The right way to do it is to scuff, lay down the hotmelt, and just drop the cap on top of it. The only thing you need to do is adjust the position of the cap so it's straight, and gently hold it for the 30 seconds or so while the hotmelt is settling and setting. If you're paranoid, you can also drill holes on either side of the cap and run a tie strap around it. You can also use tie strap mounts. I've use all of the different ways of doing it, not because I think one way is better over the other, but because when you do this day in and day out -- you get freaking bored and just want to do it differently! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 see what a perfectionist Dean is! There is even a prescribed method for attaching caps using hotmelt. Thanks for the seminar Dean LOL. I KNEW you'd chime in once your name was mentioned. But you are correct of course. Like my Uncle (a builder) always said "there's a method to my madness" Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maprik Posted June 7, 2005 Author Share Posted June 7, 2005 Thanks guys! I will follow Dean's guide. Sounds perfect! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy James Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 ---------------- On 6/7/2005 7:51:05 AM DeanG wrote: I only use "copious" amounts of hotmelt with parts mounted on flimsy PCB's that are mounted inside a speaker, and sitting about 6 inches away from a pounding woofer. Believe me, I tried quite a few different adhesives early on with this, and a good quality hotmelt (they are not all the same), once it sets, provides great adhesion as well as some much needed damping. Lightly scuffing the mounting surface and bottom of the capacitors with some 180 sandpaper -- and they aren't going anywhere. Also, most people make the mistake of pressing the cap down into the hotmelt, which only serves to squeeze all of adhesive out from underneath the cap. The right way to do it is to scuff, lay down the hotmelt, and just drop the cap on top of it. The only thing you need to do is adjust the position of the cap so it's straight, and gently hold it for the 30 seconds or so while the hotmelt is settling and setting. If you're paranoid, you can also drill holes on either side of the cap and run a tie strap around it. You can also use tie strap mounts. I've use all of the different ways of doing it, not because I think one way is better over the other, but because when you do this day in and day out -- you get freaking bored and just want to do it differently! ---------------- DeanG, What do you think about GE Clear Electronic Silicone, when drying time is not an issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frzninvt Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 Some silicones give of corrosive fumes during the curing process that usually do not set well with electronic components. Hot glue is faster and better, and cleaner! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 I just drove a nail through them. They won't move anymore! Seriously, I used and recommend hot melt too. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy James Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 ---------------- On 6/9/2005 12:40:43 PM Frzninvt wrote: Some silicones give of corrosive fumes during the curing process that usually do not set well with electronic components. Hot glue is faster and better, and cleaner! ---------------- I thought the GE stuff specified for electronic work gave off alcohol as it cured, which is noncorrosive? that's why I asked. I was just wondering since cured silicone would seem to give very good vibration damping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 There are some other products similiar to that, and I like them. The problem is that the stuff doesn't set fast enough for me. You let go of the part, and it tends to shift a little. It's a pain too when you have four boxes sitting behind you with networks in them, and you have to get things done and out the door. If you use it correctly, the hot melt can be a wicked adhesive. Mount a cap the way I described, wait 5 minutes and try to pull it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy James Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 ---------------- On 6/9/2005 2:46:52 PM DeanG wrote: There are some other products similiar to that, and I like them. The problem is that the stuff doesn't set fast enough for me. You let go of the part, and it tends to shift a little. It's a pain too when you have four boxes sitting behind you with networks in them, and you have to get things done and out the door. If you use it correctly, the hot melt can be a wicked adhesive. Mount a cap the way I described, wait 5 minutes and try to pull it off. ---------------- That's what I meant when I said when time's not an issue. What brand of hot glue sticks do you like best? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted June 9, 2005 Share Posted June 9, 2005 I like the sticks Parts Express sells. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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