ajsons Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 Drew, About your ALK's crossover, it looks like you used an additional board to hold the caps and palced all the inductors underneath it, am I right? In my understanding, ALK's are series crossovers. If you take out one part, it screws up the others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewb Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 Armando, The board is a printed circuit board of my own design. I wanted to build as solid a crossover as possible. I just got tired of breadboarded construction. If you are interested I can post more pictures of the construction. I believe you are right about component removal. So far it seems that the bass has a bit of boom. This may be due to the impedance change. I just wish I could figure out the right inductance for my woofer. I guess I will need to experiment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Klappenberger Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 Drew, You asked that I comment on the 2.6 mHy woofer inductor value. I think it's OK, but I would recommend going LOWER in value, not higher. The woofer crossover is already as low as it should go. I think even as low as 1.5 mHy would be ok.Al K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajsons Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 Armando, The board is a printed circuit board of my own design. I wanted to build as solid a crossover as possible. I just got tired of breadboarded construction. If you are interested I can post more pictures of the construction. I believe you are right about component removal. So far it seems that the bass has a bit of boom. This may be due to the impedance change. I just wish I could figure out the right inductance for my woofer. I guess I will need to experiment. I just want to see the underside of the pc board, to see how you laid out the coils, but post whatever pictures you have, we can learn from each other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajsons Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 Chris, did you try to sell your Klipschorns yet? Man, those are sharp-looking Khorns. I will keep them if I were you. What kind of mods are you thinking for your Speakerlabs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewb Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 Thanks Al, I will try the 1.5mh inductor. I am not sure what I am hearing but I know removing the inductor isn't the right move. Attached is a pic of the underside of the PC board for Armando. They were taken before I switched to lintz coils. The lintz coils really are needed to make the ALK crossovers shine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Klappenberger Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 Drew, The PC board is a perfectly good way to build a network. I personally hate making PC boards and would much rather do it "breadboard" as you call it. The Litz wire coils are definitly needed. The "Q" factor inproves 3 fold over soid wire of the same AWG at the tweeter crossover frequency of 6000 Hz. Reducing the woofer inductor to 1.5 mHy would allow you to go up the #12 wire and reduce DCR even more. Remember that PWK advocated no inductor at all! In ny netwrok design it is part of a "diplexer" so the coill definitly is necessary though. Al K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewb Posted December 31, 2005 Share Posted December 31, 2005 Here is pic of the top side of the PC board. I understand from another thread that you are getting more bass from the University's. If that is the case I would suggest that your EVM-15L woofers may not be a good match for the khorns. K33's are still available from Klipsch. This is what I will install someday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajsons Posted January 1, 2006 Share Posted January 1, 2006 Thanks for the pictures. I am getting more bass from the University because it is a better horn. The EV specs are perfect for use as a horn driver per Keele. They are cast frame and better built. John Warren, in one of his posts, talking about Khorn improvements, said "A cast frame woofer would help too...The K-33 is a piece of sh*t structurally". In another post, he said about the C15W (the woofer for the University, still talking about the Klipschorn, "The University woofer does a better job in the folded unit than any *vintage* driver I've listened AND measured". My suggestion for a REAL mod, change the SK's throat to a 6 x 13, and install a cast frame woofer like the EVM-15L. Or the C15W. Like Al K., I prefer the breadboard construction for the crossovers. I split the ALKs into two sections so if I decide to upgrade or change crossover poitns, I only have to build a section and not the entire crossover. I am building a second set and the high frequency section will cross at 3500hz. The low section will cross at 350hz. I can swap sections at will, depending on what drivers I am using. The transformer taps are also terminated at the terminal block, tap selection is done by moving the midrange connections. Here's the high freq section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajsons Posted January 1, 2006 Share Posted January 1, 2006 Here's the low freq section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewb Posted January 1, 2006 Share Posted January 1, 2006 Armando, Did you replace the original Speakerlab woofer with the EV? I would be curious as to your impressions of the differences. I tried the 6 x 13 opening with the Speakerlab woofer. The result was a "hole" around the crossover point. Have you tried the EV with the 3 x 13" opening? Moving the crossover point to 350Hz would solve the problem if your midrange can go that low. Yours appear to have that capability. I will need to look at Al's Trachorns to see if they can do it also. I will look up the specs on the EV. It is a rare woofer that has the correct specs for the khorn loading.Your crossovers look great. I went with the PC board because 1) I make PC boards all the time and 2) my breadboard attempts stunk. You, Al and others in this forum have shown me that it can be done correctly.I was under the impression that the University was not as powerful a horn as the khorn. I'll look at your design and construction post more closely. Are you going to try the es crossovers on the Speakerlabs? I would be interested in your results there also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajsons Posted January 2, 2006 Share Posted January 2, 2006 I was building my SK when Edgar commented on it and the SK driver in Speaker Builder. I believe he also recommended the EV,s and the use of the 6 x 13 throat. Coincidentally a music store at the time in Va Beach had a store closing sale, got two for $120 each brand new. No, I never had the SK woofers. I can't comment on that. I've been listening more critically lately to my SK with the Classic as the other channel. Together, they both sound great, the Classic seems to "enhance" the bass output of the SK. But it's really the Classic that dominates the bass, and once I build another one, they will be my primary system. The 350hz crossover is for the Classic, and yes its mid driver, the T-30 can handle lower xover point. I have second thoughts about the 350hz idea, the other option is to build the 400hz ESN instead. This thread by Neil is really about the SK crossover, so I'll post a copy of the spec sheet for the EVM-15L under Technical Questions, the University Classic thread, and I'll meet you there if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted January 2, 2006 Author Share Posted January 2, 2006 . . . This thread by Neil is really about the SK crossover, so I'll post a copy of the spec sheet for the EVM-15L under Technical Questions, the University Classic thread, and I'll meet you there if you want. Not to worry Armando. Half the fun of this forum is the flow that these threads take on. Nevertheless, please start a new thread to identify further postings regarding your Classic(s) so that we can follow the progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajsons Posted January 2, 2006 Share Posted January 2, 2006 Thanks, Neil. That's a very good idea. I got lost there too with all the pictures, plans, sidetracks, etc. I'll do a part two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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