New Capacitors for Heresey Type "E" Crossovers

[DaveInNashville]

Not being one to heed the adage, If it aint broke, dont fix it, Ive decided to replace the capacitors in my Type E Heresy crossovers.

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I would like to know how closely the values of the new capacitors need to match those of the old ones (2.0 microfarads, 200 volts). On Parts Express, Ive found two brands of polypropylene caps that match exactly Kimber Kap and Audio Cap which I can get for roughly $9-15 each.

Although I know which end of a soldering iron not to grab, any words of caution or advise/recommendation anyone can give me will be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks,

Dave In Nashville

[Daddy Dee]

Dave,

You are on the right track, IMO, with the best bang for the buck thing you can do to make your speakers sound better... that is to restore them to factory spec on your crossovers.

I don't know the technical answer to your question regarding "how close" the match needs to be.

I'd suggest you e-mail or send a private message to Bob Crites... BEC on this forum. He does alot of crossover work to factory spec and if you want it to be a diy job, he can get the caps to you as well. He's a good guy to do business with.

[DizRotus]

After refreshing a set of AA networks for La Scalas with caps from Bob Crites/BEC (see before and after photos below), I didnt hesitate to contact Bob again for the parts to refresh my sons Type E networks. $37 got me new caps, clamps and connectors. Plus youre dealing with a valuable asset to the forum.

[DizRotus]

After caps, etc. from BEC. Although looks weren't a factor, I also replaced the old barrier strips with new ones that aren't shown in this photo.

[Dflip]

I'm thinking a new inductor and autoformer might also be a good investment. I can't see that rust doing a lot for the inductor, but maybe Bob or Dean can chip in with their experience.

[DizRotus]

The autotransformers and the inductors tested perfectly. From an appearance standpoint the rust on the frames is bad but it has no effect on the electrical performance.

[BEC]

So far, I have never found a bad inductor or autotransformer on a vintage Klipsch crossover. Some look rusty and ugly, but all have tested good. Recently I rebuilt a pair of type AAs that had been under water for some number of days in a flood. I washed the mud off of them, replaced the caps and let them dry out in the sun for a few days. Tested perfect after that.

Bob Crites

[DaveInNashville]

Daddy Dee,

I took your advice and sent Bob Crites an email request for help.

Hey DizRotus,

Those photos are unreal. The units that came with my LaScalas never even came close to looking that bad and I ended up finally buying new crossovers. ... Your installation looks top notch.

I noticed that your new caps resemble the ones I want to replace more than those I can get from Parts Express. What brand are your new capicators?

Dave In Nashville

[DizRotus]

Those are the GE caps that Bob sells, just like the ones he sent for my son's Type E networks. You won't be disappointed dealing with Bob.

BTW after the "after" photo was taken I moved the caps farther away from the air core inductors. The original screws holding down the air core inductors were steel. At Bob's suggestion I replaced the steel screws with stainless, so as to not affect the air core inductors.

[Deang]

The capacitors for the Heresy network are small, and so are inexpensive enough that you might consider building up one network with the GE motor runs and the other with the Kimbers from partexpress -- and comparing the sound. They don't sound the same, and you will definitely have a preference for one over the other.

[Malcolm]

FWIW for anyone considering using a stainless hardware to hold down an inductor, you need to use one of the austenitic alloys (300 series, 18/8, etc.). The other alloys have relatively high permeability and won't be much better than mild steel. For that matter, the permeability of even the austenitic alloys can be increased by working the material, as in upsetting the head or rolling the threads. If you have any doubt, use brass or plastic.

[BEC]

Or, just take a magnet with you when you buy the stainless screws. If it is not attracted to the magnet, it is good to use.

Bob

[DizRotus]

What Bob said. The magnet wasn't attracted, so I was. And keep in mind that Klipsch used mild steel screws [edit 3/27; in these networks. See below.] to hold down the air cores twenty years earlier and the world just kept a goin'.

[Malcolm]

Yes, although a screw with high permeability will affect the way the circuit works, PWK almost certainly would say it doesn't make a dime's worth of difference. And he would say that of most of the changes we make.

FWIW you were the one who brought up stainless steel screws. And it is obvious you did not use one to make your network pretty.

[DizRotus]

In the interest of full disclosure, apparently this issue did make "a dime's worth of difference" to PWK.

Bob Crites mentioned to me that the screw Klipsch typically used through the air core inductors should have been brass. He was surprised to learn that they were mild steel, but said that sometimes it happened. He then suggested brass or stainless; anything that would not attract a magnet. I already had stainless screws that worked, so a trip to the hardware store to buy brass screws seemed unnecessary.

You're correct that stainless screws were not used for cosmetic purposes. It would take a lot more than a few fancy screws to make those networks look pretty.