2000 ford expidition anti-theft light flashes, car won't start.

[Guest " "]

Since we have a pretty broad experience group on this forum, figured I'd start here.

When I turn the key, no start related sounds (no starter selinoid clicks, no starter motor rev's, etc), battery is fine, alarm activiation/deactivation via remote key switch is normal. All console lights and indicators are normal for a pre-start situation.

Was thinking starter selinoid, and was going to by-pass starter selinoid and turn the sarter over to see if it cranks.

Not sure if the flashing anti-theft light is normal until the car starts.

A few years ago I have this problem with a ford windstar and afet replacing the starter selinoid all was well.

Any ideas?

[mark1101]

How about calling your local Ford dealer service department? I know it sounds like a wise guy answer but my local Chrysler dealer answers questions like that. They're pretty helpful if it's something simple you can do yourself.

The other thing you can do is search on line for one of those universal code readers that plug into the car computer. That will identify the fault code and tell you what's wrong. I've seen then in the $69.00+ price range. They work on most vehicles.

[nicholtl]

You could try disconnecting the battery, or resetting all the fuses in your car. I'm not sure where the fuse box is located on a 2000 Expedition, but I'm assuming it's on the left-side of the steering wheel, in the area that can only be exposed if you open your driver-side door.

[Jay481985]

Not sure if the flashing anti-theft light is normal until the car starts.

Most cars have the flashing red led just to warn wouldbe car stealers that this car is armed and has an alarm.

[johnyholiday]

jump it

[Guest " "]

mark1101

Code reader, excellent idea. will check into that.

As far as local ford dealership goes, this is NYC, even if they knew what the problem was, they wouldn't disclose anything that would lessen their score on me bringing in my car.

You folks out in the sticks are fortunate. On a recent trip, I was stuck out in the sticks, i was locked out of a car, called the local dealership just to ask who the local keysmith was, they asked my for my vin number, and drove a key out to me. They only charged 20 bucks. In NYC, it's 70 bucks an hour just to touch your car.

[Guest " "]

johnyholiday

jump it, why not, can't hurt. Console looks bright and lights are normal, on board volt meter is normal, but you never know.

[Guest " "]

nicholtl

I'll add that to the list, I was thinking of disconnecting the battery to reset the computer.

[Guest " "]

Jay481985

I know about the flashing LED to scare off those that need scaring. But I'm not sure, since I never noticed before, if the anti-theft light (it's an actual console light in red that says "anti-theft") is suppose to flicker until the car starts. I looked it up on various sites and in my repair manual but didn't get any leads.

[BEC]

If you have a second key, try it.

http://www.1-800-pdq-keys.com/news.htm

Bob Crites

[3dzapper]

Do you have a Smart Pass attached to your key ring? At times the computer can read the Smart Pass' RFID chip instead of the RFID imbedded in the key. The computer thinks you are trying to steal the car.

Rick

[Guest " "]

3dzapper / BEC

Never would have thought of the key/chip issue. WIll add to the list.

Thanks for all the info.

[Champagne taste beer budget]

It sounds to me like you're getting better advice now. The "Security" light flashing as you try to start it would indicate that the vehicles computer is not sensing the correct input from the key, it assumes you are the bad guy that tried to cut a new key when you had the valet park the car for you, the key would turn in the cylinder but not be able to correspond correctly to what the computer expects to see for an electronic input signal from the key.

If I were at the shop I could look up exactly how your system works, but won't be there till Monday, not much help at the moment.

If you're really ambitious, you could try and bypass the starter solenoid with a screwdriver, which would allow the starter to engage and spin the engine over, but without a manual in front of me I can't promise that the computer doesn't not only disable the starter circuit, but also the fuel delivery and ignition systems as well.

There should be a round solenoid, roughly hockey puck size, close to the battery. One big terminal is B+, one small terminal is input from the key, second big terminal is output to the starter. Check for B+ at the small lead when the key is in the "Start" position. If you have that, the solenoid should engage and allow B+ to the 2nd big terminal, which should be connected to the starter. Of course, I must warn you, there are some newer Fords that have a seperate solenoid on the starter motor itself, so the above may be moot, but without a wiring diagram in front of me I can only offer my best guess.

I hope you get it figured out, it shouldn't be a tough fix once the correct diagnosis is done. Either a Security issue, solenoid or starter based on the minimal info we have here. I'd poo-poo the scanner idea personally, I don't believe the generic ones will give you security computer data, I doubt it would get you any further towards a solution.

JMHO, of course.

[Guest " "]

Champagne taste beer budget

heading out to where i had to leave it in the morning.

bringing extra keys, will try to reset computer, by-pass starter selinoid, bring jumper cables. The key/chip issue makes a lot of sense. Will look into the code reader if they are not too pricey.

My luck being what it is, it will probally start right up with no intervention and remain another ford unsolved mystery.

I kno my way around older stuff from rebuilding and replacing engines during the 70's and early 80's, but this computerized stuff is made to drive you up the wall.

I remember back in 98 having a local shop replace the entire electrical start system in one of my vans, starter, computer, battery, starter switch, and a few other things. Computer codes were all over the place. 1200 dollars later car still would not start. Issue turned out to be a wire that had grease on it which was not conducting. The shop refunded me all my money and told me to keep ll the new parts.

[Champagne taste beer budget]

Best of luck to you. If it's actually a security issue, it'll be tough for you to diagnose. If not, a 12 volt test light and a DVOM should be all you need. That, and a good wiring diagram and a thorough understanding of how all those electrical components are supposed to work.

*edit* That sounds like a good, stand up shop that did the work on your van. We give stuff away when we're wrong, luckily it doesn't happen very often, but it sure builds customer confidence and trust.

[Jay481985]

If that is your only means of transportation, I would be glad to give you a ride around to get it fixed if need be

[Gilbert]

How did you load test the battery to confirm that it carries enough amperage?

[travisc]

try locking and unlocking the door with the key, if that doesnt work with someone holding the ignition in crank hit the starter with a hammer, just enough to jar it a bit.

[Guest " "]

Jay481985

Thanks, we are going to have to nominate you as Mr Helpful, Northeast.

I have a few other cars to get me by.

So far it sounds like the folks who chimed in have provided enough to move forward.

If none of the suggested works, I have good old ford come get it and do their thing.

[Guest " "]

Gilbert

Noted the volt meter, it was at normal indication, turned on all lights, hazard flashers, all blowers, heated seats, defrosters, 2 cigarete lighters, and ran thru my drivers powered seats. No lights dimmed, and volt meter barely moved.