i-Fi volume control malfunction

[dbert]

Any know what are those yellow box things found in the PCB? Looks like Metalized Film capacitors
(Polyester or Polypropylene)

My Sub is all assembled. Do you have close-ups or can you tell us what is printed on them? The Evox Rifa type sound like a premium product.http://www.audiocap.net/EvoxRifa.htm

one other question for you dbert. I’ve been shutting mine off from the back every time I’m done using them? Do you think that’s worse than leaving them in standby?

I’m not 100% sure what happens with the mute/standby switch is selected but I’m going to avoid using it at all. I have my suspicions and I wish I had an oscilloscope. Sometimes I may think it will only be for a short duration (say the phone rings) but I may then forget and leave it like that overnight or something. Switching it off on the back would surely save electricity. As I said I’ve just been turning mine all the way down or turning off the source when not in use. Mine is real easy to turn down now.

[fuzion78]

Here the photo

The values are (correct me if i'm wrong)

10 x 104J63 = 100,000pF 5% 63V

2 x 272J63 = 2700pF 5% 63V

4 x 474J63 = 470,000pF 5 % 63 V

As the capacitor pitch = 5mm and the tolerance is 5%, there going to be limited choice of flim capacitor for used.

[dbert]

The values are (correct me if i'm wrong)

10 x 104J63 = 100,000pF 5% 63V

2 x 272J63 = 2700pF 5% 63V

4 x 474J63 = 470,000pF 5 % 63 V

As the capacitor pitch = 5mm and the tolerance is 5%, there going to be limited choice of flim capacitor for used.

All the values look correct to me.

Found a bunch of 63 volt cap photos here. Many similar but nothing exact.

http://www.sportslinkup.com/shop/0-Capacitor-63v-1.html

What makes you think they need replaced?

Electrolitic capacitors built in the early to mid 2000 range are always suspect, but these?

I fear you may be just making work for yourself. I could be wrong.

[dbert]

By the way...for those looking for tips on how to DIY. This has some nice photos and info.

http://www.capacitorlab.com/replacing-motherboard-capacitors-howto/index.htm

[fuzion78]

The values are (correct me if i'm wrong)

10 x 104J63 = 100,000pF 5% 63V

2 x 272J63 = 2700pF 5% 63V

4 x 474J63 = 470,000pF 5 % 63 V

As the capacitor pitch = 5mm and the tolerance is 5%, there going to be limited choice of flim capacitor for used.

All the values look correct to me.

Found a bunch of 63 volt cap photos here. Many similar but nothing exact.

http://www.sportslinkup.com/shop/0-Capacitor-63v-1.html

What makes you think they need replaced?

Electrolitic capacitors built in the early to mid 2000 range are always suspect, but these?

I fear you may be just making work for yourself. I could be wrong.

Thank dbert.

I'm replacing these capacitors to improve the sound quailty. But I must say it difficult to get good capacitor with the right pitch size.

For those interested:

- 104J63 may be replaced with WIMA MKP2 or Kemet PHE426

- 272J63 may be replaced with Kemet PHE426

- 474J63 can't find any cap with the same pitch size

[duppa43]

WOO HOO... Just got my new capacitors yesterday. Had a few minutes and decided to change one or two. Guess what? after closer inspection I noticed that the smaller 25V Cap was slightly bulged, so I changed it first. Slapped it back together and WOO HOO, My ifi's working like a charm!!!

here is my question, since I have the other Caps, should I change them as well? Or should I just leave better enough alone and save them in case they go out in the future?

Thanks dbert!!!

[dbert]

It may well be that the one 25V cap is all we needed. The 4 larger capacitors are used by the 18 volt 5 amp transformer output (yellow/black/yellow wires), and this one smaller cap is for the 10 volt 1 amp winding (pair of brown wires). It appears this 10 volt circuit is what feeds the dock. Rather certain these are just AC to DC power supply rectifier smoothing capacitors. If they are crap though, I am glad I changed the other 4 also. Bottom of board marked up to show basic paths.

[tc3sean]

Would anyone know what component or part could have gone out that is causing my sub to not work at all?

Thanks. Im glad this thread is gaining interest again, and people are fixing their IFI's for once! Nice little schematic there Dbert.

(ive replaced 5 large caps already)

[ronwes]

Hi Guys,

As Dbert switched his IFI off every time after usage, I deliberately left it in Stand By mode as this should e possible..However after 3 weeks of fantastic fun, my IFI is back where it was.. Distorted and no control over the volume and base.People, don’t leave the IFI on stand by modus if not needed, apparently the 25 volt cap is getting to hot or so and start to malfunction. Is there anything we can do there because eventually t will hit some other repaired IFI’s as well at some stage (depends on how long the non-stop usage is)I guess it is back to the repair man…. as I almost certainly know it is the big 25V cap

Ron

[dbert]

Interesting. I have not used the standby feature for more then a few seconds at a time since I replaced the capacitors. I've left it powered up for how ever many weeks it's been now, but have just turned the volume all the way down or turned off the audio source. I seriously considered disabling the standby button when the dock was apart, but you need it to turn the unit on after power-up (make the led fwd of vol wheel (knob in my case) green). Keep us updated. I wish I had an occiliscope to see what goes on in standby.

[Rad09]

I've had mine working for about 3 weeks now. I made the mistake of using standby the other day for about 5 minutes and they started blasting really loud out of one speaker again. I haven't used standby again since and they've been fine. Its best to just not use the standby button at all. I've been shutting mine down from the back everytime i'm done with them

[dbert]

This is bad news. This means it's not just a vendor choice for the original capicators, but a design flaw that kills capicators.

[Rad09]

Yeah its upsetting. But I figured i don't mind replacing the capacitors every 6 months if it keeps them working.

[ifi123]

[uPDATE MAY 2011] Here is how I fixed my Klipsch iFi dock problem:

i just replaced the 4700uF 25V with United Chemi-Con SMG 6800uF 25V. i bought 5pcs of ELNA 6800uF 35V but it's way too big for any 5 of them. paralleling them is possible but not now. In my used iFi I found that there is one resistor between the main AC line (track have been cut open, it wouldn't run without it) probably to prevent blowing of fuses.

It turns out that my DIN Cable is also busted. the weak DIN cable is to blame. so I cut the cable and re-solder them into their pins at the dock, because the problem lies just behind the dock, not at the end of the plug.

After months of light usage and transport, my Klipsch iFi still works perfectly as new. Just a piece of advice it take good care of the weak DIN cable.

[fuzion78]

Please keep us update on your modification, especially since you replace the 25V 4700uF to a 6800uF. Not really sure if suck big capacitor helps since it used for the docking statio

i just replaced the 4700uF 25V with SMG 6800uF 25V. i bought 5pcs of ELNA 6800uF 35V but it's way too big for any of them. paralleling them is possible but not now.



so tried to replace the 25V first. well during few hours of testing the crackling sound still appears one time. Before that it was very often. Also, right channel went out, turns out that i need to wiggle the DIN cable behind the dock to certain angle to make both the satellites sound from iPod or AUX2. using AUX1 is fine.



will test if it starts to act up during this few days. also, i noticed that my set (from eBay) comes with a resistor across the power cord and fuse. the guy cut the 'connection' between the fuse and power line, and used a unknown rated resistor as connection. probably to save the fuse.










at least now i'm enjoying the great sound of iFi without the usual hiss and crackle.

[fuzion78]

Regarding the so call "resistor, could it be Class X capacitor, which is acutally a “across-the-line” Line Filter Capacitors.

Anyone trying replacing the 2 pins inlet with an IEC line fillter before?

i just replaced the 4700uF 25V with SMG 6800uF 25V. i bought 5pcs of ELNA 6800uF 35V but it's way too big for any of them. paralleling them is possible but not now.



so tried to replace the 25V first. well during few hours of testing the crackling sound still appears one time. Before that it was very often. Also, right channel went out, turns out that i need to wiggle the DIN cable behind the dock to certain angle to make both the satellites sound from iPod or AUX2. using AUX1 is fine.



will test if it starts to act up during this few days. also, i noticed that my set (from eBay) comes with a resistor across the power cord and fuse. the guy cut the 'connection' between the fuse and power line, and used a unknown rated resistor as connection. probably to save the fuse.








at least now i'm enjoying the great sound of iFi without the usual hiss and crackle.

[ifi123]

if i remove the 'resistor' i wouldn't able to power up the iFi because apparently it has been cut thus leaving the power and fuse lead an open circuit. it was wired to the burnt marks on the right but i moved it to the left so it looks neater.

bad news, another pops and short crackle within 24h left on with iPod Nano 2G (8GB) docked. good news is yes, no more hissing sound. before the caps replacement i can hear some hissing when it charges the ipod and it's noticeable.

i have a feeling i need to change the 4 bigger caps into better one. well, i probably change 5 of them. thing is i need to find 'taller' instead of 'fat' capacitors so it can fit without having to use cable or separate small PCB. probably do it next month when i got the time.

what happened with your iFi?

[ifi123]

okay. several pops this morning. and when i moved it into another room, the wire gets worse. so i decided to cut about 2ft of the cable from the dock, remove the socket, and solder the wire directly into the board. bare with me for the mess since i am not good in soldering. i guess the DIN cable is the culprit for now. btw mine is the 230V version.

[dbert]

turns out that i need to wiggle the DIN cable behind the dock to certain angle to make both the satellites sound from iPod or AUX2.

I have some promedias that had a problem with the Din connector. If the pins look ok check the the printed circuit poard to Din connection for broken solder joints.

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/113932/1147209.aspx#1147209

[dbert]

Wait. What end were you having to hold a certain way to make it work? The dock or the amp/sub?

Sorry. Reread what you said. Dock end. Disregard.