wood repair and name plates

[ricktate]

how would i repair the ply wood chips on edges of my la scalas,and can i get new name plates from hope factory.most of the chips on bottom outside edge of speakers from shoes,furniture hitting the wood.thanks for any help.

[justin_tx_16]

How deep are the teh cuts/gouges? could you just get a router and make a nice smooth edge on the sides? One guy did that and they looked sweet.

Don't know about getting parts like that but here is a post from the Technical Questions forum that kinda goes along with this.

quote:

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Topic: kg5.5 rough cabinet

kman1752 posted 11-11-2001 06:09 AM

Just purchased a set of 5.5's at a cheap price. The corners are rough. Does Klipsch sell any repair kits and also to they sell replacement parts and if so what is the address or phone no. Sorry for asking so

much

JIM

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Mike Lindsey posted 11-12-2001 09:51 AM

1-800-KLIPSCH. Ask for matt or Trey...

Mike

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So, call 1-800-KLIPSCH and ask for Matt or Trey... LoL!

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-justin

I am an amateur, if it is professional;

ProMedia help you want email Amy or call her @ 1-888-554-5665

Klipsch Home Audio help you want, email support@klipsch.com or call @ 1-800-KLIPSCH

RA# Fax Number=317-860-9140 / Parts Department Fax Number=317-860-9150

[WMcD]

I use Elmer's Carpenter wood filler. Available at Home Depot.

It sands quite well.

If you have a chip off the edge you can fill it with the filler, and leave it a bit proud. I.e put on a bit more than is necessary.

Then you have to sand it down. Very fine sandpaper on a block of wood will work well.

The problem with wood filler is that it will just about never match the shade of wood it fills. Some fillers can be bought in colors which might get closer. Elmer has at least one tinted product.

The alternative is to color it after it drys. Again a difficult thing to get right. Minwax makes some "Magic Marker" type of dyes which might work.

Gil

[ShapeShifter]

I have some veneer that is broken off at the corners on of Belles. The veneer strips are about 3/4" in height and are glued across the entire front lip of the upper cabinet. The broken corner pieces are about 1" in length on one and less that an inch on the other.

I was planning to use an exactor or utility knife to vertically cut out and remove the damaged corner strips, then glue in new veneer. Trim (fill in gaps if need be), then sand and stain. Is this a good procedure to use?

Wes

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"KLIPSCH IS MUSIC"f>

[Chris Robinson]

Shapeshifter, I have the same issue as you with a pair of vintage K'horns that are resting in my basement, awaiting refinishing. They're raw birch, finished in a clearcoat, but the edges of plywood have the 3/4" veneer that you speak of, and like yours, mine are chipped as well on both ends, 1" or so on each side.

I've "talked" with a few people on this board and the suggestion I seem to hear is to get a really cheap-assed iron (i.e., "disposable"), heat up the veneer strip to the point that the glue behind it reflows, then remove the entire veneer strip. There are a lot of furniture vendors like http://www.constantines.com/ that sell the veneer, and replacing the entire strip doesn't sound too bad and it's not expensive. If you have a router, you could just finish off the edge after it's dried, then stain or coat as needed. Granted, this is a lot more work than replacing a 1" section, but I think the look will be a little cleaner. If you try this, let me know how it goes; I'll do the same ...

Here's a direct URL to the veneer section of constantines.

http://www.constantines.com/subcatmfgprod.asp?0=336&1=335&2=1075

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If you don't like what is coming out, you wouldn't like what is going in." -PWK-

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Klipsch 1968 ALK Cornwall "II"s (LF/RF)

ALK Belle Klipsch (Center)

Klipsch Heresy (RR/LR)

Klipsch KSW-12 sub

Sonic Frontiers Anthem AMP1 (driving Cornwalls)

Sonic Frontiers Anthem AMP1 (driving Heresy's)

Denon AVR-4800

Toshiba SD-3109 DVD

This message has been edited by Chris Robinson on 11-28-2001 at 02:41 PM

[ShapeShifter]

Chris - Thanks for the info and links. You're right, removing and replacing the strips will provide a more cosmetically pleasing look, and the grain will be consistent along the entire strip as well. Just didn't know how to remove them without causing additional damage. Have an older travel iron that should heat them up nicely. Got an older router too, but no guide for it. Not sure I trust free handing, but have time to practice. Plan to repair them after the first of the year. Too much on my plate now to begin another project. So if I don't see an update on your efforts, I will post my results w/pics when I'm done. Many thanks...Wes

Ricktate - Forgot to mention in my earlier post that the Bronze type Klipsch logos can be ordered from Klipsch Parts Dept, 1-800-KLIPCSH and ask for Parts. I ordered two pair this past summer for a total cost of $16.00, shipment incl. The Klipsch name on the replacements doesn't have the engraved look like the originals. They have an embossed type look and feel. You may want to consider ordering a pair, this will ensure that both logos look identical.

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"KLIPSCH IS MUSIC"f>

[Fretshop]

Being a luthier I work with wood all day. I used to sell Deco furniture and fixed this stuff all the time. I think trying to delaminate a speaker cab with an iron is a big can of worms. The heat can separate the plys beneath. Then you are in hell. They never come off as well as you'd like.

With laminate chips You can square off the laminate and patch with a slightly thicker laminate of similar type and grain. Patch it as best you can, sand flat with a flat sanding block, and touch up the new piece's finish with something from your hardware store that looks close.

If you like you could laminate an entirely new cover over the edge to edge surface. Remember that you need to make a clamping caul the entire surface area to be glued so even presure will be applied edge to edge. I usually use plywood with a plexiglass laminate to keep it flat. Cut a piece a bit larger than the surface to be covered, spread titebond thinly over the whole surface and lay something weighty on top of the caul for several hours while it dries. You can then sand to the edges and try to match the finish of your new piece edge to edge. This looks quite convincing if you can match the stain/laquer closely. Challenging without a spray setup. Quicker setting adhesives like 3M spray don't leave any wiggle room if you miss your grain line but are quite good if you are handy and accurate.

For bigger chunks especially on edge crunches you can square off the damage area with slightly outwardly beveled edges. Then make a chunk of wood slightly larger to fill with edges beveled opposite of your hole. Glue it in with superglue then sand all the edges flat and clean up the finish. Laminate as described if you wish.

With most of these type repairs remember less is more. The smaller the area you work with the better chance of it looking good. The quicker you get in and out the less chance of chasing your tail. The simplest repairs while not invisible on close inspection look quite good from listening distances and will last indefinately.

I'd avoid wood fillers. They shrink and degrade over time. Colored epoxy works better on small spots.

Mix a paint tinting pigment in it when you mix it up. You can get real close to the finish shade that way.

Email me if you want further clarification.

If this doesn't make sense its over your head and I'd recomend having someone else help you.