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Has Klipsch created an "upgrade kit" for Heresys?


West

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I also have a pair of H-700s I bought in 1979. They differ a little from what John states in describing West's posting (that is: I believe it's West's H-700s that John is referring to).

Here's how mine came from the dealer:

K-77-M tweets (not the K-77) with soldered lugs.

K-55-V squawk drivers with soldered lugs (not the spring loaded).

K-22-E woofs with soldered lugs.

Type E network, two 2uf caps, one inductor, and the auto-transformer.

Standard rectangular box housing in birch plywood.

I've not touched this network since day one, so it's time to put in new caps. Maybe a network upgrade as per John's schematic?

I just came across a second pair of Heresys with a different setup:

K-77 tweets.

K-55-V squawks with spring loaded terminals.

K-42 woofs with spring loaded terminals.

Type HIE network, four caps (two 2uf and two 4uf), one each 2.5mH and 245uH inductors, two Zener diodes, and the auto-transformer.

Triangular housing for corner placement or laying on side as a monitor.

Michael Colter of Klipsch Tech Support says that the smaller triangular housing severely limits the bass response.

I feel as if I almost have two different speakers with different woofs, different networks, different housings, slightly different tweets, and the different lugs. Oh what to do, so many options, so many paths to follow.

Here's more to consider (confuse?): I read about K-55-M squawk drivers and how they are better matched with K-77-M tweets (remember I have K-55-V in my H-700s). Any thoughts there?

The K-42 woofs have a much beefier magnet. Maybe they are better for the triangular housings? Any thoughts on how they compare with the K-22-E? Dang a guy could go nuts with all the mix and match options.

Anyway, I appreciate the comments and advice. More to think and obsess about.

I'm about to recieve a thrid pair of Heresys. I'm curious what I'll find inside those!

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Yes the K-42 I have are in a triangluar ported cabinet with the port on one triangular end, but has some stiff foam stuffed in the port, should I remove that or leave it?

When you say "HSM (slant monitor)" isn't that also a triangular cabinet? Are you saying that there are two sizes of triangular cabinets, the HIP ported and the smaller HSM non-ported?

My HIP have feet on two sides: for upright position and to lay down for use as a monitor. If my triangular cabinet limits the bass response, what are your thoughts if I built rectangular cabinets, sized like all other Heresys, and changed over to the square rectangular cabinets? I assume I keep the HIE networks (but with refreshed caps) because of the K-42s?

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Other than updating the caps in the crossovers and BEC tweeters, you might want to give some thought to another low dollar upgrade. My recollection is that Klipsch ran the tweeters hotter (or louder) in the Heresy as opposed to other Heritage such as the Klipschorn (even though they used the same K77 version). If you find the tweeters too prominent, you may want to give some thought to attentuating (or reducing in volume) the tweeters to make the speakers sound more balanced. There are a number of ways of inexpensive ways of attentuating the tweeters, and I prefer Al Klappenberger's tweeter attentuators (about $80 or so) with a movable plug to adjust the attenuation from -3 db to -11 db (www.alkeng.com).

Carl.

I did the same thing with a pair of 40 cent resistors. Actualy, I attenuated both the midrange and the tweeters. Worked very well. Just drop the taps on the autoformer and add the resistor.

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Other than updating the caps in the crossovers and BEC tweeters, you might want to give some thought to another low dollar upgrade. My recollection is that Klipsch ran the tweeters hotter (or louder) in the Heresy as opposed to other Heritage such as the Klipschorn (even though they used the same K77 version). If you find the tweeters too prominent, you may want to give some thought to attentuating (or reducing in volume) the tweeters to make the speakers sound more balanced. There are a number of ways of inexpensive ways of attentuating the tweeters, and I prefer Al Klappenberger's tweeter attentuators (about $80 or so) with a movable plug to adjust the attenuation from -3 db to -11 db (www.alkeng.com).

Carl.

I did the same thing with a pair of 40 cent resistors. Actualy, I attenuated both the midrange and the tweeters. Worked very well. Just drop the taps on the autoformer and add the resistor.

Yep, there are much cheaper ways to do so. I just like running Al's attenuators for the convenience of adjusting tweeter db levels on the fly, depending on source, mood, music, etc.

Carl.

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