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RW8 discontinued???


paul68mt
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I was online with a locale electronics retailer ( ultimate electronics ). They advertised the RW8 on sale for 199.99 When i got there to purchace it they were out of stock and informed me that it has been discontinued. After searching around for more info on this, I heard that a new powered sub 8 in. is replacing the RW8. Can anyone offer more info on this? Thanks

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no problems, bigger, better. An 8 inch subwoofer in my books is not really a subwoofer either

Just for the sake of the argument here.

Depends what 8",you can have a very high excurion 8" woofer outdisplacing an average 10" and even a 12".A real sub must be defined by extension and output down low,not woofer diameter.

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and simply put it a 8 inch cone does not offer enough woofer area (sd) to really be a so called subwoofer.

I love how the bastardization of the word subwoofer is thrown about everywhere. Ever go into those sharper image/brookstone stores. They called a 3 inch speaker a subwoofer.

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and simply put it a 8 inch cone does not offer enough woofer area (sd) to really be a so called subwoofer.

I love how the bastardization of the word subwoofer is thrown about everywhere. Ever go into those sharper image/brookstone stores. They called a 3 inch speaker a subwoofer.

Take JL Audio W7...the little 8" driver,it will outdisplace many 10" woofers.So not as sub? [:#] It is true the ideal is to have a larger piston surface,however a sub is defined by the extension and amount of air it can displace. Saying there are 3 or 4 or even 5" subs is stretching it as there are simply no woofers in these sizes capable of generous displacement, not under 8". 8" is the bare minimum,and it has to move at least 1L to be or real worth as a sub,in a small room.

What is more when you have a linear response down to 31.5hz(at at least 100dB) and usable energy at 20hz(90dB) you can call it a sub.

Take Sunfire's Super Junior,uses a tiny 8" woofer and a 8" PR,guess what it is a real sub,besting much larger subs when it comes to deep bass! Take Velodyne's SPL800R,also a real sub,even if it uses only a 8" woofer. They are not practical as you pay a big premium for a very high excursion woofer and high power amp...housed in a minuscule cabinet.

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You need to take a listen to the Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 sub.

Sorry not a sub,its 6" woofer,has tiny linear and peak to peak...displacing little air compared to real microsubs as the Sunfire and Velo subs. Also compare its displacement to a JL W7 8",outdisplaced so many times its not even funny.

And it is way too rolled off at the bare minimum of 31.5hz to even be called sub. At 20Hz it is non existant.

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Thanks to all for the info I just joined this forum, and very impressed to how fast some of you guys reply with your knowledge and imput. So as i stated before, I was looking for the RW8 all i could locate was floor models. I called a local retailer that was provided by this site under (locate dealer), called them and i was told they had one in stock.. Great Went there, paid for it.$205.99 with tax came to $239.00 And will be shipped from the warehouse and availible for pickup the next afternoon. Great.. Get there next day and informed me that they infact do not have RW8 and are unable to get due to being discontinued. I was ready for them to refund me the purchase, when they gave me the RPW-10 at no additional cost.

Not being very knowledgable in this area, is this a good sub?

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Thanks to all for the info I just joined this forum, and very impressed to how fast some of you guys reply with your knowledge and imput. So as i stated before, I was looking for the RW8 all i could locate was floor models. I called a local retailer that was provided by this site under (locate dealer), called them and i was told they had one in stock.. Great Went there, paid for it.$205.99 with tax came to $239.00 And will be shipped from the warehouse and availible for pickup the next afternoon. Great.. Get there next day and informed me that they infact do not have RW8 and are unable to get due to being discontinued. I was ready for them to refund me the purchase, when they gave me the RPW-10 at no additional cost.

Not being very knowledgable in this area, is this a good sub?

rsw-10??? If that is it yes its an upgrade for sure.

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and simply put it a 8 inch cone does not offer enough woofer area (sd) to really be a so called subwoofer.

I love how the bastardization of the word subwoofer is thrown about everywhere. Ever go into those sharper image/brookstone stores. They called a 3 inch speaker a subwoofer.

Take JL Audio W7...the little 8" driver,it will outdisplace many 10" woofers.So not as sub? [:#] It is true the ideal is to have a larger piston surface,however a sub is defined by the extension and amount of air it can displace. Saying there are 3 or 4 or even 5" subs is stretching it as there are simply no woofers in these sizes capable of generous displacement, not under 8". 8" is the bare minimum,and it has to move at least 1L to be or real worth as a sub,in a small room.

What is more when you have a linear response down to 31.5hz(at at least 100dB) and usable energy at 20hz(90dB) you can call it a sub.

Take Sunfire's Super Junior,uses a tiny 8" woofer and a 8" PR,guess what it is a real sub,besting much larger subs when it comes to deep bass! Take Velodyne's SPL800R,also a real sub,even if it uses only a 8" woofer. They are not practical as you pay a big premium for a very high excursion woofer and high power amp...housed in a minuscule cabinet.

Maybe we should do a Martin Luther and post a description of what a subwoofer is or is not... Seriously. I say must move atleast one liter of air. Ideally a 12 inch or bigger (I said ideally but fine 10 ad 8 are fine but 8 inch is stretching it as you need way too much power and excursion to match a competant 10 inch). It must reach below 32 hertz (+ -) ideally below 25 hertz but that is ideally. Be able to go down to 32 hertz with atleast 105 db (no quote on distortion as no one really gives that information out on subwoofer)

What do you define a subwoofer theear?

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SUB-woofer, IMHO, if it can reproduce frequencies below that of the main speakers in your system, then it is sub-woofer. I suppose that it should be capable of equal loudness levels as your mains (ie efficient enough with enough wattage), and develop significantly lower bass (lets say a further 1- 1.5 octaves)

If your mains are RF7's, you'd need a RSW12 at least to do this. If your mains were Quintets, a KSW10 or Sub10 would do the trick. I don't think anyone here would call the sub10 much of a 'sub' for the RF7 however. I have LaScalas and the THX sub system. It keeps up volume wise, and is lower in frequency. Is this a reasonable working definition?

It's a matter of perspective, no?

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Thanks to all for the info I just joined this forum, and very impressed to how fast some of you guys reply with your knowledge and imput. So as i stated before, I was looking for the RW8 all i could locate was floor models. I called a local retailer that was provided by this site under (locate dealer), called them and i was told they had one in stock.. Great Went there, paid for it.$205.99 with tax came to $239.00 And will be shipped from the warehouse and availible for pickup the next afternoon. Great.. Get there next day and informed me that they infact do not have RW8 and are unable to get due to being discontinued. I was ready for them to refund me the purchase, when they gave me the RPW-10 at no additional cost.

Not being very knowledgable in this area, is this a good sub?

Sorry your simple question got hi-jacked Paul. Sometimes we forum members feel the need to spout everything we know, relative or not.

Yes the RW-8 is discontinued. The RPW-10 essentially replaced it and yes, it is a good sub (that statement will certainly open another discussion with endless naming of subs that may or may not be better but all will most certainly cost more than your $239).

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Wow.

Anyhow - a sub is not just "by the numbers". That kind of thinking is truly archaic.

Truth of the matter is - take an 8 inch driver in a common 2 way system, 3 way system, or 30 way system and actually *listen* to it - just that driver, in it's stock enclosure, but feel free to disconnect the other drivers. What you will hear is nothing like what you would hear from the "sub" in the ProMedia 2.1 (NOT the crappy sounding GMX, or the "ultra")

The top end will roll off way too high - many systems upwards of 1500Hz, and the lower end will barely reach down towards 70Hz. It is just too wide of a spectrum to actually be able to reproduce any low end respectably.

A "sub" by definition operates at frequencies below the human ears' ability to localize... ie: 120Hz. Yes - best if you can keep it below even that number - many folks cross as low as 80Hz, but regardless how low it goes - if it's job is to produce sound 120Hz and below - it is a sub.

To try to claim that an 6.5, 8 or 10inch driver is incapable of operating at say... 60Hz - well within the spectrum of "sub", is just silly, and I cannot believe that a forum full of audio enthusiasts would say something like that.

Then again - I also saw a post by one who said NOT to use the crossover in a Klipsch sub, and instead to use the sub out channel on their receiver, and to crank the Klipsch xover as high as it would go to avoid cascading. Yeah - avoiding cascading is a good thing, but you got it backwards...

Most receivers have an 8 to 12 db/octave rolloff - which even if the xover point is adjustable on the receiver - will bleed a lot of un-wanted spectrum to the sub. In case you guys haven't read the specs on your Klipsch subs - units like the Sub 12 have a staggering 24 db/octave rolloff... that isn't a slope, people - that is a sheer-faced cliff, and this would be a good thing - especially for those of you mentioning things like how low can you go and rolloff... cmon. Crank up xover on the receiver, and manage it using the sub xover instead, you will be much happier with the results. Subs are not supposed to reproduce upper or lower mid-bass, so why would you use settings which welcome introducing those freqs to it?

So really - come on over to my place, or else go find a promedia 2.1 system (THX badged remember), unhook the mains, put the sub adjustment right on the mark under the S, and listen to your favorite track or three. Actually listen to just the "sub", and then come back and tell me it isn't a sub.

Until then - it is a sub.

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Sorry to hijack this thread,one last jab in here.

" What do you define a subwoofer theear? "

My definition of a subwoofer is a driver that is mounted in a cabinet or on a baffle,capable of reproducing deep bass down to the inaudible(20Hz and lower).

Subwoofers are crossed at 80Hz or less,anything above and it is a bass module.As speakers not capable of reproducing frequencies down to 80hz are satelite speakers and these need a bass module to take care of a portion bass range,not only subsonics.

It is very rare to have a bass module descend with authority down to 20hz,with any real linearity.

Driver size is not a factor really,simply the smaller the driver,the more drivers you will need or the higher the excusion to reach a given output. For example Cambridge has a sub,good one at that that uses multiple 6 or 6.5" woofers.The final air displacement matches and beats 10" woofers and even some 12"!

And true sub woofers in the grand extent must reproduce frequencies below the human hearing. Covering at least 16-80hz +3db point at 16hz,and this near max output. So the the Sunfire True sub is not a true sub [:P]

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Wow.

Anyhow - a sub is not just "by the numbers". That kind of thinking is truly archaic.

Truth of the matter is - take an 8 inch driver in a common 2 way system, 3 way system, or 30 way system and actually *listen* to it - just that driver, in it's stock enclosure, but feel free to disconnect the other drivers. What you will hear is nothing like what you would hear from the "sub" in the ProMedia 2.1 (NOT the crappy sounding GMX, or the "ultra") What you described is a woofer not a subwoofer. My rf-83 have 3, 8" woofers not subwoofers and still capable of +- 3 db from 29 hertz to 21000 hertz. Of course the you hear higher than subwoofer territory on a woofer.

The top end will roll off way too high - many systems upwards of 1500Hz, and the lower end will barely reach down towards 70Hz. It is just too wide of a spectrum to actually be able to reproduce any low end respectably. I believe my rf-83 are crossed at 1600 hertz so.... but it was not a subwoofer, get the rt-12d if you want a subwoofer.

A "sub" by definition operates at frequencies below the human ears' ability to localize... ie: 120Hz. Yes - best if you can keep it below even that number - many folks cross as low as 80Hz, but regardless how low it goes - if it's job is to produce sound 120Hz and below - it is a sub. ummm what about those 2 inch or 4 inch speakers that claim to be a subwoofer. Yes it can reach down to 60 hertz but that is it. Its acts more like a midrange or woofer.

To try to claim that an 6.5, 8 or 10inch driver is incapable of operating at say... 60Hz - well within the spectrum of "sub", is just silly, and I cannot believe that a forum full of audio enthusiasts would say something like that. Its not the 60 hertz that is the problem, heck a 6.5 inch in a proper enclosure can do that fine. Its the below 32 hertz we crave

Then again - I also saw a post by one who said NOT to use the crossover in a Klipsch sub, and instead to use the sub out channel on their receiver, and to crank the Klipsch xover as high as it would go to avoid cascading. Yeah - avoiding cascading is a good thing, but you got it backwards...

Most receivers have an 8 to 12 db/octave rolloff - which even if the xover point is adjustable on the receiver - will bleed a lot of un-wanted spectrum to the sub. In case you guys haven't read the specs on your Klipsch subs - units like the Sub 12 have a staggering 24 db/octave rolloff... that isn't a slope, people - that is a sheer-faced cliff, and this would be a good thing - especially for those of you mentioning things like how low can you go and rolloff... cmon. Crank up xover on the receiver, and manage it using the sub xover instead, you will be much happier with the results. Subs are not supposed to reproduce upper or lower mid-bass, so why would you use settings which welcome introducing those freqs to it?

So really - come on over to my place, or else go find a promedia 2.1 system (THX badged remember), unhook the mains, put the sub adjustment right on the mark under the S, and listen to your favorite track or three. Actually listen to just the "sub", and then come back and tell me it isn't a sub. It isn't a true sub..... I had the ifi and promedia ultra to tell you it is not. The 2.1 THX is very boomy and colorful. Its distortion is also not the lowest (distortion adds percieved loudness)

Until then - it is a sub.

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