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RF-7 UPGRADE?


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This morning I got up and put in the best of cameo and after listening to all of it I got to wondering, when I got my first pair of rf-7's it sounded like one of the drivers was not playing and after pulling the crossover out and looking in shure enough the lack luster driver was unpluged. Well I spent the afternoon soldering the conectors of all eight of the 10" drivers in my rf-7s and by the way their were some very loose connections in there. Now, I'm not shure if it's my imagination or not but it seemed add a good bit of punch to the bass and made the music comming out of the 7's a lot tighter!! I feel like it was well worth the effort "WORD UP"

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I don't know about cat 5 but I braided speaker cables with highly reguarded Beldin cable and managed to fry my amplfier using them. I think they are about 7 feet biwired. I'm no techy but it was either the high capacitance or impedance that was the culprit. I also thought it was due to my not having a zobel network installed to protect from frying. Recently I found out from the factory that my amp has a zobel network. Sell you some cables cheap! The continuity has been checked and is OK.

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This morning I got up and put in the best of cameo and after listening to all of it I got to wondering, when I got my first pair of rf-7's it sounded like one of the drivers was not playing and after pulling the crossover out and looking in shure enough the lack luster driver was unpluged. Well I spent the afternoon soldering the conectors of all eight of the 10" drivers in my rf-7s and by the way their were some very loose connections in there. Now, I'm not shure if it's my imagination or not but it seemed add a good bit of punch to the bass and made the music comming out of the 7's a lot tighter!! I feel like it was well worth the effort "WORD UP"

What would that do to the warranty??????

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The factory advised me to lightly squeeze the connector with a pair of pliers BTW while fumbling inside the cabinet, to reconnect the crossover,I broke a connector tab off the bakelite strip it was anchored to. It looks like I fixed it with epoxy. Before someone came up with this clip on connector Klipsch soldered all the wires like you just did, but they feel it isn't necessary with the tab. You don't need a real tight connection. I don't fumble inside the cabinet. I take the woofers out now and connect and disconnect where I can see what I'm doing. Beware they are really heavy. I lay the cabinet down on it's back to do it after I get the tweeter out while the cabinet was still upright. The tweeter is heavy to so the top screw out last and hold the bottom as the last screw is removed.

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