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MCM crossover question


greg928gts

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I just aquired a pair of M-3B crossovers for my MCM system. The bass bins are at least 30db down from the mids according to my 1/3 octave eq/analyzer. It sounds that way too, just not enough bass. All 4 bass bins are working, all 4 have K-43's in them. My mids have the 4-K55 drivers and I have the 4-K78 tweets. The system sounds good, but just not nearly enough bass. Note, I do have the MSSM's, but they aren't hooked up right now, these crossovers are the 3-way.

Boosting the bass on the eq causes things to sound more balanced, but it's just not right. The volume levels are incredible. I have a 200 watt Mac amp on them right now and I couldn't bring myself to get the red lights to blink on (yet, he he).

Any ideas on what could be causing this? A look inside the passive crossovers shows an older style cap that could be bad I suppose. I was encouraged to see the round (look like solen) caps.

I'll be hooking up my active crossover at some point, but I thought it would be easy to get the system up and going with the passives, which is why I bought them.

Pictures to follow.

Greg

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Greg, check email. I reread your posts and see that you did recognize that this network is for your MWM, MSM, and MTM cabinets only, so you should not have the 10" K41 MSSM bin connected, correct?

Perhaps the imbalance is why that mid-bass module was added (and part of every single MCM stack I have ever seen in action).

Have you tried just going straight from amp to MWM-s, then through network to the high and tweets?

I'm still going to make up the 4-way setups for my stacks, with a way to bypass the MWM section in favor of bi-amping. Still open to making you a set if you'd like.

Michael

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Colter. In all seriousness.....I was trying to come up with a way to make an MCM setup indoors. Hoping to leave out the midbass modules.

Now said before...the K402/K1132 on specs looks like it can go down to 350Hz with good coverage. The MWM can go up to 450Hz.

For non pro use...what would be the compromise in leaving out the midbass module and using the available 400Hz biamp networks used with the KPT 535 systems? The volume would not be anywhere near what would be used in pro setups. I would think this would work. This option would keep the system from being extremely tall.

jc

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Well, I feel fairly confident that the Drivers and horns can do what I have suggested.

Unprofessional opinion obviously.

What would be good to know is if there really is any difference between the networks KPT-535-N and KPT-535-4-N. Both are networks to run the mids and highs of a biamp system with the low end crossed at 400Hz.

I have the K510's with K69's and have the KPT-904-LF coming. If I purchased the KPT-402-MF then I would have all the components for the KPT-535-T system except for the network which is the KPT-535-N.

So.....if I wanted.....could I swap out the KPT-904-LF and try the MWM's. Still biamped and still using the KPT-535-N and the K402/K510.

Seems to me this would work.......however, don't want to spend several thousand on stuff that "just works"....you know what I mean.

Roy had mentioned before that with the Cinema products that things could be switched around. Just want to make sure this suggestion doesn't have a major flaw.

jc

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Just as a quick suggestion too, make sure the woofers and the cabinet itself is sealed and tightened down. Sometimes that can be a culprit to what your experiencing too "A loss of punch and depth." Not to mention rattles and shakes. LOL

Roger

BTW, You can add more screws into the woofer gasket down into the mototboard. Most woofer gaskets have 8 holes, but only use 4 screws. just a thought.

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Just as a quick suggestion too, make sure the woofers and the cabinet itself is sealed and tightened down. Sometimes that can be a culprit to what your experiencing too "A loss of punch and depth." Not to mention rattles and shakes. LOL

Roger

BTW, You can add more screws into the woofer gasket down into the mototboard. Most woofer gaskets have 8 holes, but only use 4 screws. just a thought.

Not to worry, on the Professional MWM cabinets, it's all 1/4" dia bolts and T-nuts. Nothing coming loose there. And the gasket on the door is some very dense rubber type seal. I took all the bolts out and still had to pry the door off!

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  • 8 years later...

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