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[justinkas]

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[Guest " "]

do they work?

put some pictures of the insides up, report back if they work, and i'm sure you will be flooded with ideas.

[justinkas]

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[SilverSport]

Lay them down on their face (speaker grill side) on something protective, like carpet or a blanket, etc...then remove the screws from the back...then remove the back BUT the speaker wire connectors will be attached inside by wire...this will allow you to only remove the back close to the speaker cabinet...look inside...take LOTS of nice digitals...report here...you will get ALL the help you need...clean up that beautiful Walnut Oiled finish...you can find Dr Bill's recipe' on here (not mine but I have used it many times) and your walnut oiled finish will drink that in...but first...listen to them a bit...VERY NICE! When it is time, I bet you olnly have to (when YOU want to) rebuild the crossovers...they could be older than 1961...garyMD and others will chime in here soon.

Bill

[Arky]

I watched that auction. That Sansui is very nice also.

[stormin]

I watched that auction. That Sansui is very nice also.

Yup the G-8000 rocks!

[Dflip]

My guess is Cornwall 1's with B networks. You need a 2.0 uF and 4.0 uF capacitor which should be replaced. It shouldn't cost too much money and there are several options depending on the sound you want to achieve. Good value can be had with Sonicaps which Bob Crites offers for sale. If you want something more mellow (Jensens) or detail (Hovlands at the mid price range and V-Caps or Mundorf Supreme) at a higher price. The inductor is probably fine, but can be replaced, 12 awg, 2.4 mHy from Solen http://www.solen.ca/ The price has gone up in the past year due to the increased cost in metals.

S122.4 2.4 mH 2.0 25x51x102 $40.49 14 awg, $24.54 16 awg, $ 15.27

It depends on what sound you want and how much you want to spend. The Soncaps from Bob for the kit which require you to do the soldering are $45 US http://cgi.ebay.com/Rebuild-Kit-for-Klipsch-Type-B-Crossovers-Sonicaps_W0QQitemZ110155376812QQihZ001QQcategoryZ14993QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem, for a whole new crossover, $175, http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Replacement-Crossover-Klipsch-Type-B-Cornwall-Pair_W0QQitemZ110156762088QQihZ001QQcategoryZ14993QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Good value for the money, but there is better sound, it depends on what your budget can afford?

[arfandbark]

What a buy! A nice G-8000 brings good money, not to mention the vintage Cornwalls.

If the speakers are original and unmolested...... What a great buy!

Love to see what's inside them.

[Frzninvt]

Not even close on the networks guys, these are 1961 models since the '60 had a different cabinet style similar to that of the Shorthorn. They can be classified as the original issue Cornwall II's as distinguished by the vertical arrangement of the horns. They were purchased individually since the S/N's appear to be about 100 number apart which makes sense since most things were "mono" back then.

The front grillls are not removable they are securely stapled to the front motorboard which is screwed into the cabinet from the inside. Access is via the rear panel and about 16 screws, there may be a piece of wood screwed to the back panel as I have seen that in the old versions.

The networks will not be B's they will be special C versions with the old hand wound bobbinized coils (see photo). The tweeter will be the 16 ohm version chrome throat version/screw terminal of the K-77, the midrange will be the K-55 but the horn is the very narrow K-1000, they will also have the Jensen P15LL (K-33J) woofer. The woofer hole is also only around 10" - 12" which helps load the woofer (back pressure). I would leave them original, perhaps make new versions of the networks with identical cap and coil values, but hold onto the originals for sure. The crossover points are 1000/5000 on these.

These are the oldest pair of Cornwalls that I am aware of (albeit not a matched pair), my brother in law Gilbert has a matched pair S/N 284 & 285 (1961). He also has a single that looks identical to your's with the K-1000 horn, small diameter woofer hole. Klipsch did not start using the "Alpha" characters in S/N's until 1962. I sold my '62's awhile back to finance my rear Klipschorn's. []

They probably won't sound quite as good as a modern day Cornwall due to the narrow K-1000 horn and smaller woofer hole but they are certainly nice collector's pieces, great score. I wonder how those slipped by me? Perhaps because they were located across the continent. I am surprised Triceratops did not jump on them he loves the really old vintage Cornwalls as much as I do, perhaps more.

Great score!

[Frzninvt]

Inside Gilbert's 1961 Cornwalls.

[Frzninvt]

Gilbert's single Cornwall like your's with his '61, I think he was looking to sell it at one point. Need a matching center channel? Raw Mahogany finish though.

[justinkas]

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[Frzninvt]

I stand corrected those are the EV 15WK (K-33) woofers with chrome baskets, even better than the Jensen P15LL's (K-33J)! Very early K-55's as well.

You cannot use ALK's, or Type B's because the K-77 in these speakers is 16 ohms. The crossover points are currently 1000/5000 the ALK's/Klipsch Type B's are 600/5000 since the cutoff on the K-600 horn is 600hz, I do not think that you can alter the crossover point since you have the K-1000 (1000Hz) horn in those speakers.

You need to replicate the current networks with identical values with newer/better parts and replace the aging zip cord and spade lugs. Nice spade lugs are available from Parts Express.

However, before I would touch anything on them at all I would listen to them as they are. I did note improvements on my '62's when I rewired and renetworked them.

I can't wait to get home and load those photos in my Klipsch archive. Good2BHome on the forum has formidable knowledge as well when it comes to vintage Cornwalls. Triceratops in the in the Oregon/Washington area and is a collector of vintage Cornwalls as well.

[justinkas]

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[Frzninvt]

David,

You need to determine the values of the coils and capacitors in those networks and create new ones with better parts. The capacitors are usually marked somewhere, Cornwalls typically use a 4uf for the midrange and a 2uf for the tweeter. The coil is typically a 4mh

You could send them to Bob Crites or DeanG to determine coil values since you need a meter capable of determining the values of those parts.

The spade lugs are what connects the individual (T, M, & W) internal speaker leads to the terminal strip crossover network, some good 12 gauge OFC wire would be plenty sufficient to rewire the internals. Here is a photo of my rewired and renetworked '62's to give you an idea. They are cheap I will get you a Parts Express item number.

I will reply to your email when I get home since I cannot access it or respond from work, I can only view my email queue.

[justinkas]

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[Frzninvt]

David,

When replying, at the top that show the text from the previous message are four tabs, choose the "Options" then click the "Add/Update" tab and select the location on your PC's hard drive of the photo that you want to post and click "save"

I looked at the close photo of the network you took and you have three coils (two appear to be hooked in parallel with one another), two capacitor's, and the autoformer. All you need is a network that crosses at the current 1000/5000 and compensates for the 16 ohm tweeter (2uf for the 8 ohm K-77) not sure if you double or half the value for the increased impedance. I think the EV 15WK is a 4 ohm woofer, and the K-55 should be 16ohm but the RE will be about 10.6 - 11.2 ohms when measured.

Have you listened to them at all yet? I would advise doing so for awhile before jumping into update/modification mode. See if you can identify any potential weak points (if any)

[justinkas]

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[Frzninvt]

See! I knew that they would my '62's sounded fine without any modifications and they stayed that way until I decided to slowly update them. They are gone now but the other Klipsch speakers now get the attention.

I cannot imagine the coils or autoformer would drift much or at all, but the capacitors become resistive over time and sometimes leak oil. Those are 46 years old, put some premium Auricap Theta's or equivalent (pricey) in there, replace the old zip cord with some 12 gauge oxygen free copper wire and some 12 gauge gold plated spade lugs from Parts Express or equivalent and you will notice an improvement. You will also need 4 ring terminals to replace the lead from the back cover to the crossover network input. Let me get you some part numbers, Kimber Kaps are nice and the price is easier on your wallet if you are budget minded.

Pretty amazing that a pair of speakers that are 46 years old, never had anything replaced, can still to this day rock like the day that they were built and easily compete with just about anything on the market today after such a period of time later.

For the time being I would at least loosen each connector for each driver and on the crossover terminal strip and use an old toothbrush in the terminal strip then return the connector and re-tighten this will help with any oxidation from over the years.

Suggested Parts Express Items for wiring rework:

095-667 10GA Gold Ring Terminals $0.85/Pr (You need 2 pair)

095-672 12-14GA Gold Spade Lugs $0.85/2Pr (You need 8 pair)

100-145 14GA 50' OFC SoundKing Speaker Wire $21.95

Then you just need to choose the caps.

[justinkas]

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