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[justinkas]

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[dtel's wife]

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your new purchase! They are beautiful!

From what I can see in the pics the overall condition appears to be good. It looks as though whoever owned them really appreciated what they had.

Generally we tell people to listen to the speakers for a while before you start making any changes. Others on here may give you additional advice. We have purchased several used pair of Klipsch speakers over the past two or three years and are so pleased with them that we have not made any changes to the original parts.

You will get a lot of advice from folks on this forum....soak it all in and then make the final decisions for yourself. There is a link which can help you identify the speakers. I will look for the link and try to post it for you, if someone else doesn't do it first.

Again, welcome and enjoy your new speakers!!!!! They will bring you a lifetime of listening enjoyment!

[Frzninvt]

Wow...What a nice & complete response Thanks so very much Frzninvt for all of your invaluable input!! I will be spending some quality time with these over the next bit of time and of course be updating this thread all along the way with progress reports, decisions, updates and pictures. If you should think of anythin else, please feel free to let me know and I'll get to work!

Also, did you mean "Audiocap Theta"- I found these but not "Auricap Theta" at parts express? They did have Auricap without the "Theta" but the closest to 2 uF was a 2.2 uF and they did have the 4 uF - in the "Audiocap Theta" they had both values - which made me ask about confirmation of the brand please - "AudioCap Theta" or "Auricap w/o Theta"? Also, am I to assume that the current caps in my speakers should be thrown out - I don't need to keep those metal casings that they are in do I? One more thing, can say a 2.0 uF cap be replaced with a 2.2 uF cap (anotherwords are they close enough) or do I need to stick with exacting values? Exact values because most are 10% tolerance which means that they can vary .2 in either direction to start with.

These are the ones:

027-724 (2uf)

027-728 (4uf)

or the 1% tighter tolerance and cheaper Dayton's

027-214 (2uf)

027-226 (4uf)

Some other thoughts, what about the driver's condition in the tweeters, midrange & woofers? When I played them earlier today they sounded ok to me but how would I really know if they were working to their proper specs & potential? Is there any good way to test this as someone who is a bit inexperienced with this? Also, I spoke with Bob Crites about the drivers and he tells me that he hopes the tweeter drivers are fine because they are a "B*tch" if not next to impossible to replace; further stating that he might not even be able to do this successfully if needed.

The drivers will be fine despite their age, if they sound good and have no anomolies like static or distortion I would leave them alone

Another thought as well, would anyone consider even attempting to upgrade these with entirely newer replacement tweeters, mids, woofers etc. in order to be able to use "B" or "ALK" networks? Would this thought even be worth the effort & the time? Or would this be an attempt to mutilate the artform that they already are? How might such an upgrade improve their sonic signature and would replacing the tweeter, midrange and even the woofer (I have no idea which one's would need to be replaced) in order to use newer networks? What would actually have to be replaced in order to perform such a network upgrade?

Changing the drivers is pointless the EV 15WK woofers are some of the best drivers Klipsch ever used, and the K-55's are not the problem. Your barriers to alternate networks are the K-1000 horn (requiring a 1000Hz/5000Hz network) and the 16 ohm K-77 tweeter. You can leave the original networks intact and have DeanG or Bob Crites build you a set of custom designed networks specifically for yoru driver compliment but you would need you to send the originals to them so they could be replicated with all new and updated parts. You could also leave them be and enjoy them as they are unless you are noting some deficiencies in them when listening.

Thanks for the care answering my questions....David

[boom3]

I was puzzled at the circular base for the crossover, and then it was obvious...it's the cut out for the woofer. I can hear Paul saying, "Waste not, want not!"

[justinkas]

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[Frzninvt]

Yes, it makes sense since the crossover point is higher than a standard Cornwall (1000Hz vs. 600Hz)

The Heresy uses two 2.0uf capacitors in it's network.

[whamo]

I was puzzled at the circular base for the crossover, and then it was obvious...it's the cut out for the woofer. I can hear Paul saying, "Waste not, want not!"

That's ingenious!

[boom3]

Hi again,

Upon an unscrewing of the capacitors stacked on top of one another I have found that they are both identical in their values. The picture below of the bottom cap is the EXACT SAME as the one stacked on top. They both seem to indicate that they are 2.0 uF if I am correct? Please let me know what you think

Does this alter your suggestion surrounding your initial cap values suggested of (1) 2.0 uF & (1) 4.0 uF.

Thanks...

Capacitors in parallel add, so two 2 uF caps paralleled are 4 uF.

[justinkas]

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[Frzninvt]

David, it is the same network just laid out differently. It has the same three coils and two 2.0uf caps and autoformer in it as the other, and all the drivers are the same. If I were to guess the 2nd speaker is S/N 213 and the other with the round network in it is 133, the K-55 has the standard bell cover on the back in this one.

Here is the network out of my '62 it appears your have an additional 2.5mh coil along with the 5.0hm and 0.5mh.

[BEC]

Thought I would bring this thread up again to show a bit more about this crossover in the old Cornwalls.  This set of K-1000-5000 crossovers are different from others I have seen.  The extra inductor is in series with the woofer and has a 10 ohm resistor in parallel with the 5 mH inductor.  

David is keeping the original crossovers intact and I am building him a new set using the same design as the originals but of course with all new parts.

Here is the K1000-5000 David sent me to use for a "sample".

Bob Crites 

 

[BEC]

Here is a rough drawing of the schematic.

Bob Crites

 

[BEC]

And finished product.

Bob Crites

 

[Frzninvt]

Nice work Bob! As usual.

Yep he was limited due to the 16 ohm tweeter and K-1000 horn so a rebuild/update following the original network was definately the way to go. Should make them sound like new or better than new again.