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Subwoofer Candy:) for RF-7


STUDIO 2000
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Hi,

I have a pair of Rf-7's and so excited to hook them up after waiting all this while. I have purchased the RC-64 for center and I am now looking at a good subwoofer in the mid $600 - $800 range. My room is approx 17X13 feet.

I am looking for a Sub that has the following characteristics:

  • home theatre (80%) but needs to be musical
  • Blend in well with Rf-7 and RC-64
  • Looking for very good detail even at low volume (Dont want to have it crank it up to hear bass)
  • Good lower frequencies, but doesnt have to shake the house ( I dont want to make the neighbors mad:)

I have never owned a sub. I heard good things about SVS, HSU, Velodyne, but according to my description what would seem like a good fit.

What have you used and based on experience what can you highly recommend?

Thanks

Dave

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I have the RF-7s and use a SVS subwoofer that shakes the house. I don't use the subwoofer for music

since the RF-7s have pleanty of bass to accurately reproduce most music recordings. I only find the need

to use the subwoofer with movies (mainly action movies) to more realistly create the explosions.

Unless your into cannon shots or deep organ music you may find that the RF-7's don't require a subwoofer

for music.

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Guys, Thanks for the information.

You are correct the Rf-7 does go pretty low.

This Dayton Subwoofer above looks very nice for the price at $580self built, can anyone vouch for the quality and is it easy to set up? How does it perform with movies etc? My room is 17X13, and I definately want it to blend in with the rf-7.

Also Southern what SVS model are you using?

Other brands that I am considering is as follows:

Outlaw Audio LFM - 1 EX or Plus series (They have a sale at $549)

Velodyne DLS 5000 R ($799)

HSU VTF 3 - MK3 without the Turbocharger.($699)

I welcome your input and especially wish to know if the Dayton DIY Subwoofer is worth it. Outlaw price is good too.

Which to pick that will match well with RF-7?

Thanks

Dave

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I have the SVS PB-12 +2 which has a 900W Bash amp but goes for over $1000. It has 2 downward firing

woofers which makes them kid and pet friendly.

What are you powering your RF-7's with? I am using a Pioneer Elite VSX-74VXTi which has the MCACC

calibration mic which makes it very easy to balance my system to each other and with the room.

Subwoofers with built-in equilizer and phase control also make it easier to match up with your main speakers.

I have my RF-7s set to large on my HT receiver so the low frequencies (below 40Hz) go the the subwoofer.

Because of this I don't really hear the bass from the sub but rather feel it. With the volume down low you

can feel the presense of the low frequencies, with the volume up high on the receiver (the subwoofer volume set at 1/4)

the entire house shakes.

With that said I don't feel that you can avoid shaking your house if you turn up the volume on your A/V reciever with a subwoofer.

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Thanks Southern, and BobbyT

Bobby I think I am going to go with the Titanic, as I looked into the threads from a while back and you own one and really like it. To me its a toss up between the outlaw LFM-1 and the Titanic, however I do have children and if I see correctly the Titanic is sealed and not ported?

I have never done a DIY before - the kit you mentioned is that all I need or do I need to stuff it with something else?

Also at this point I dont have surrounds, so I am thinking if I should get this sub or surrounds first? I watch a lot of movies:)

Right now I have 2X RF-7, RC-64, Emotiva IPS-1 AMP (150W x7) (on its way) and Emotiva LMC-1. (on its way)

Thanks

Daveb

Dave

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I also started with 2 mains (RF-7) and a center channel speaker (RC-7). I decided to add a sub

before the surrounds (RS-7). If I had to do it all over again I would still purchase the sub before the surrounds.

There is not alot of sound coming from the surrounds most of the time, mainly effect type sounds.

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Thanks Southern, and BobbyT

Bobby I think I am going to go with the Titanic, as I looked into the threads from a while back and you own one and really like it. To me its a toss up between the outlaw LFM-1 and the Titanic, however I do have children and if I see correctly the Titanic is sealed and not ported?

I have never done a DIY before - the kit you mentioned is that all I need or do I need to stuff it with something else?

Also at this point I dont have surrounds, so I am thinking if I should get this sub or surrounds first? I watch a lot of movies:)

Right now I have 2X RF-7, RC-64, Emotiva IPS-1 AMP (150W x7) (on its way) and Emotiva LMC-1. (on its way)

Thanks

Daveb

Dave

Dave if you go with the Titanic you won't be disappointed. It is nice fast sub which keeps up very well with the 7s on music and movies. And yes it is sealed. The only thing you need to get not included in the kit is a can of 3m adhesive for the foam that comes with the kit. I did stuff mine with some polyfill. You can get some in the craft section in Walmart for $3. Parts Express sells for a lot more. But it is the same stuff. And it will make the sub sound better. If you lived close enough I would give you the adhesive and polyfill. Plus help knock out the final assembly if you wanted. Even have a listen before you buy. But chances are you don't live anywhere near me.

Also you can look around other sites like AVS or Home Theater Forum. The Titanic subs are well liked.

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What is the largest enclosure size you can accept for your configuration? One of the most limiting factors for subwoofer design is the size of the enclosure (bigger is always better). So usually, if the engineer knows what he is doing, the system with the larger enclosure for the same price is going to perform better. Increased radiating surface area is also a good thing (bigger drivers).

So although I've never heard either the Outlaw or the Dayton options you've proposed, I would probably go with the Dayton before the Outlaw.

However, for $600-$800 you could probably do a little bit better if you're willing to go with a larger cabinet. Did you mention your children because you don't think you should go with a ported sub? I can't imagine that it'd be any more of an issue than the ports on your RF-7's???

For example, you might check out some of the eD offerings:
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/index.php?cPath=2_41

The Dayton Titanic in a ported enclosure performs pretty well too, but will be much larger than your sealed configuration. You might also consider going with dual 12" titanics instead of the single 15" (it models up way nicer and you have the advantage of making the drivers fire opposite each other and cancelling out a good portion of cabinet vibration). I suppose if you went with the Dayton kit now, that you could always turn it into a ported system in the future and experience another performance increase for free later in the future.

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Dr Who,

My explanation was vague with regards to my children and port vs sealed. What I meant was that I would like to find something that seems enclosed, so that the driver doesnt show obvious to the children. The area where the subwoofer would be one can see before walking into the room, so my kids have tendency to play or be in that area at times. Where the fronts are in the room, the kids dont like to go to the very front as its "dark and scary" they say. So I was looking for a sub where the driver is less exposed, and when I initially thought sealed vs ports I had this image in my mind that sealed means one cannot see the drivers.

The edesign seems interesting, do they have a pretty good sub? I dont mind pushing price to $799. I was just looking up an SVS PB 12 - Plus too.

Thanks much for your input.

Dave

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What is the largest enclosure size you can accept for your configuration? One of the most limiting factors for subwoofer design is the size of the enclosure (bigger is always better). So usually, if the engineer knows what he is doing, the system with the larger enclosure for the same price is going to perform better. Increased radiating surface area is also a good thing (bigger drivers).

So although I've never heard either the Outlaw or the Dayton options you've proposed, I would probably go with the Dayton before the Outlaw.

However, for $600-$800 you could probably do a little bit better if you're willing to go with a larger cabinet. Did you mention your children because you don't think you should go with a ported sub? I can't imagine that it'd be any more of an issue than the ports on your RF-7's???

For example, you might check out some of the eD offerings:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/index.php?cPath=2_41

The Dayton Titanic in a ported enclosure performs pretty well too, but will be much larger than your sealed configuration. You might also consider going with dual 12" titanics instead of the single 15" (it models up way nicer and you have the advantage of making the drivers fire opposite each other and cancelling out a good portion of cabinet vibration). I suppose if you went with the Dayton kit now, that you could always turn it into a ported system in the future and experience another performance increase for free later in the future.

Agreed. I am going to either put my Titanic in a larger box or in a sono tube. When ever I can get the time that is.

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I'm using two SVS PCi 25-31, but only started with one and I must say that one does an amazing job. The only reason I have a second is because I found it for sale on Craigslist for next to nothing, but I certainly wouldn't say that I am in need of two subs.

You won't be let down with an SVS, any of their models. They also have a 30 or 45 day in home trial and if you don't like it you just send it back. Definitely worth the money.

An SVS PCi 25-31 will run around $580 shipped, $549 before shipping. You can also get them to custom tune them down to 22hz free of charge.

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Dr. Who. BobbyT, southern, lakedmb - Thanks all for the information that you have provided. I purchased the SVS pb12+ (HT) and a dayton 15" (music) for living room, so this way I can see which one fits my area the best:)

I also started another thread in the Powered Subwoofer section on correct subwoofer placement. I invite you to look at my diagram and help me figure out a solution as to where to place this SVS sub which is approx 18" wide.

Thanks

Dave

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I have RF-7's with an RC-7 and I use an SVS 20-39 PC plus. I have the volume pretty low and it blends very well with the 7's. I use the AVIA disk to set up the system and it sounds seemless. The SVS is very smooth and never boomy. In some scenes it goes so low that it is a guteral sound that scares off the women and children. Just kidding, but it will get everyone's attention. I have nephews 6 & 3 and they never bother it at all. The design is different and the driver is out of sight, out of mind.

I am very happy with my choice. You may want to check the B-stock listings on the sight. I got my sub for $100 off because the guy who ordered it first, didn't realize that a 39" tall cylinder would not fit under his projector screen. [:D]

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