Add Real Cherry Veneer to RC-62?

[willland]

I am not sure this is the right thread to ask this question but here it goes. I just bought a pair of RF-63's in cherry and want to add a real cherry veneer to my RC-62. I have some real natural cherry veneer left over from my cabinet install and I want to attach it to the top and sides of the 62. First, is that a wise thing to do and second any suggestions how to do it? I love the way the real cherry looks and I can't afford nor will my shelf be strong enough to support an RC-64. I would guess an adhesive is the only way to go. Any wood workers out there?

Bill

[Groomlakearea51]

The original finish is a woodgrained "vinyl". In order to get your real cherry to "stick", you will have to prep the surface with lacquer thinner (fast wipes....) and use a contact cement. Number of products. But, here's one that will work with the "vinyl" and the veneer.

Practice on something first...... Hope that is of some assiatnce

[willland]

Groomlakearea51,

Thanks a bunch. I appreciate the direct and informative reply. I think I will try your suggestion.

If I decide to sell the 62 in the future(purchase the cherry 64), is there a way to cleanly remove

the veneers and adhesive without ruining the vinyl surface? Just asking if I was to have a hard time

selling with the custom addition.

Bill

[longdrive03]

Hi Bill. I would suggest taking off the vinyl cherry down to the mdf. I use the following technique. Paint plain wood glue ( I uses Titebond II) on the cabinet and the back of your veneer. Let it dry. Apply another coat. I would use a fine foam roller. After both coats are dry (about 30 minutes to an hour per coat) you then position the veneer in place and use a clothes iron on the high setting (no steam) and iron the veneer on. The heat activiates the dry glue on the veneer and cabinet and locks it down tight. You can roll with a rolling pin. Be sure to use a paper grocery sack between the iron and veneer to avoid burning the veneer. I just used this technique on a TV cabinet using bubinga pommelle veneer and solid cherry legs and trim. It works with paper back or wood back veneer. As you roll over it with a rolling pin listen for any crackling sounds and if you hear them simply iron over those areas again. You can keep the dried panels for a month or more before use with no problems. The main difference between this method and contac cement is that you can position the veneer easier with this method. Once contact cement makes contact it's there and hard to move. I then trim using a flush bit, same and move on to the next panel. Works great and doesn't smell as bad as the contact cement. I just got a ton of veneers (nearly 4ft x 8ft sheets of cherry) so I'm stocking up on the Titebond II. Hope this helps

[willland]

Longdrive03,

Thanks for the alternative method of veneering. I haven't tried any method yet,

but will soon take the plunge. If successful, I will post with pictures.

Thanks,

Bill

[longdrive03]

Good luck bill. Here's a photo of the tv stand I'm building for my friend using this method. Solid cherry legs and trim and bubinga pommelle veneer on top and ends.

[longdrive03]

Me again. Final version of the cabinet in place. I'm working on a custom center and L&R speakers to go in the cabinet plus powered sub and rears. Using the iron on glue method.