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Help identifying parts for rebuilt crossovers Type AA


easyone

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I bought a pair of used Klipschorns and the crossovers were rebuilt. The person I bought them from did not know anything about what was done as concerns the new parts. Can someone tell by the pictures what was done to the crossovers? These are 1975 C-type K-horns.

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Best I can tell that one looks O.K. as far as the circuit goes. I can't think of anything flattering to say about the work though -- it's a hack job.

Yeah, that's what I thought too. Got a hell of a deal on the speakers, so I kinda looked past that. I got'em home and they sound wonderful. I guess I was mostly wondering if the caps in the picture are distinguishable from other caps as regards age, power, value, etc. I know basically nothing about what goes into the parts of a crossover. I am trying to learn as I go.

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very pretty cabinets, now GET THAT NETWORK OFF THERE BEFORE YOU SCRATCH SOMETHING- (geesh-kids- LOL)

the cap replace isn't that neat per Dean, but you have AA with fresh caps, probably sounds just fine.

enjoy em for a while before you do anything else

do I spy a third Khorn in that pic?

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Let me raise a couple of details.

First, regarding the screw that holds the inductor to the board (top left corner of picture) you may want to remove it (it does not appear to be brass). There were some that escaped the factory that were not brass screws. This is an issue of physics (not audiophile logic). Depending on what the screw is made from, the functioning of the inductor can be hampered.

Second, regarding the diodes (the pair are on the bracket on the left). This is part of the tweeter protection circuit (along with the steeper high pass filter for the tweeter). At high levels, the signal can be corrupted. Although if you are playing at high levels may be you need the protection. Many folks disconnect this (you only need to disconnect one side). Again, don't do this if the protection is a good idea (two-year olds love knobs....)

Third, now is an excellent time to clean all the contacts. This alone can sometimes make a difference.

Well, at least the caps are yellow. My Klipsch-buddies tell me that is always a good thing, unless they are blue. Or did I get that backwards....

Those are nice looking cabinets.

Good Luck,

-Tom

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I've tested the brass/steel screw theory in Klipsch's anechoic chamber. Acoustically (measureably) it doesn't make a gnat's butt difference what the screw is made of. Electrically, in theory, it might have some effect, but it's immeasurable on a frequency response curve, so it must not affect the values within the crossover network to any great degree.

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very pretty cabinets, now GET THAT NETWORK OFF THERE BEFORE YOU SCRATCH SOMETHING- (geesh-kids- LOL)

the cap replace isn't that neat per Dean, but you have AA with fresh caps, probably sounds just fine.

enjoy em for a while before you do anything else

do I spy a third Khorn in that pic?

The network is in the back of the cabinet in that picture. The inside of the speaker looks like the top.

You do spy another speaker. I found several good deals the past few years and decided to try few different year models and setups.

This is the other pair. KBOL 1981 models. ALK networks.

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Michael,

The steel screw changes the 245 uH inductor specified on the schematic to about a 350 uH inductor. So, the question would be, is 245 uH right for the inductor in the tweeter circuit or is 350 uH right? Anyway, pretty simple to replace the screw with one that is non-magnetic making the crossover match the schematic.

Bob Crites

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No, we are talking about the screw in the center of the inductor located in the upper left corner. Check it with a magnet and if it is attracted to the magnet, replace it with either a brass or stainless screw that is not attracted to a magnet.

Bob Crites

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No, we are talking about the screw in the center of the inductor located in the upper left corner. Check it with a magnet and if it is attracted to the magnet, replace it with either a brass or stainless screw that is not attracted to a magnet.

Bob Crites

It definitely is metal according to the magnet. Do you happen to know what size screw that should be?

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