easyone Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 I bought a pair of used Klipschorns and the crossovers were rebuilt. The person I bought them from did not know anything about what was done as concerns the new parts. Can someone tell by the pictures what was done to the crossovers? These are 1975 C-type K-horns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easyone Posted June 30, 2008 Author Share Posted June 30, 2008 Another pic... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easyone Posted June 30, 2008 Author Share Posted June 30, 2008 I figured a pic of the speakers wouldn't hurt... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Best I can tell that one looks O.K. as far as the circuit goes. I can't think of anything flattering to say about the work though -- it's a hack job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easyone Posted July 3, 2008 Author Share Posted July 3, 2008 Best I can tell that one looks O.K. as far as the circuit goes. I can't think of anything flattering to say about the work though -- it's a hack job. Yeah, that's what I thought too. Got a hell of a deal on the speakers, so I kinda looked past that. I got'em home and they sound wonderful. I guess I was mostly wondering if the caps in the picture are distinguishable from other caps as regards age, power, value, etc. I know basically nothing about what goes into the parts of a crossover. I am trying to learn as I go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted July 3, 2008 Share Posted July 3, 2008 Ah, yes, Pre 1977 KCBR's which were my first pair in 1977. There's nothing like your first................. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted July 3, 2008 Share Posted July 3, 2008 Maybe so, but electrons don't care. Best I can tell that one looks O.K. as far as the circuit goes. I can't think of anything flattering to say about the work though -- it's a hack job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted July 3, 2008 Share Posted July 3, 2008 very pretty cabinets, now GET THAT NETWORK OFF THERE BEFORE YOU SCRATCH SOMETHING- (geesh-kids- LOL) the cap replace isn't that neat per Dean, but you have AA with fresh caps, probably sounds just fine. enjoy em for a while before you do anything else do I spy a third Khorn in that pic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted July 3, 2008 Share Posted July 3, 2008 Let me raise a couple of details. First, regarding the screw that holds the inductor to the board (top left corner of picture) you may want to remove it (it does not appear to be brass). There were some that escaped the factory that were not brass screws. This is an issue of physics (not audiophile logic). Depending on what the screw is made from, the functioning of the inductor can be hampered. Second, regarding the diodes (the pair are on the bracket on the left). This is part of the tweeter protection circuit (along with the steeper high pass filter for the tweeter). At high levels, the signal can be corrupted. Although if you are playing at high levels may be you need the protection. Many folks disconnect this (you only need to disconnect one side). Again, don't do this if the protection is a good idea (two-year olds love knobs....) Third, now is an excellent time to clean all the contacts. This alone can sometimes make a difference. Well, at least the caps are yellow. My Klipsch-buddies tell me that is always a good thing, unless they are blue. Or did I get that backwards.... Those are nice looking cabinets. Good Luck, -Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted July 3, 2008 Share Posted July 3, 2008 I've tested the brass/steel screw theory in Klipsch's anechoic chamber. Acoustically (measureably) it doesn't make a gnat's butt difference what the screw is made of. Electrically, in theory, it might have some effect, but it's immeasurable on a frequency response curve, so it must not affect the values within the crossover network to any great degree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easyone Posted July 3, 2008 Author Share Posted July 3, 2008 very pretty cabinets, now GET THAT NETWORK OFF THERE BEFORE YOU SCRATCH SOMETHING- (geesh-kids- LOL) the cap replace isn't that neat per Dean, but you have AA with fresh caps, probably sounds just fine. enjoy em for a while before you do anything else do I spy a third Khorn in that pic? The network is in the back of the cabinet in that picture. The inside of the speaker looks like the top. You do spy another speaker. I found several good deals the past few years and decided to try few different year models and setups. This is the other pair. KBOL 1981 models. ALK networks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easyone Posted July 3, 2008 Author Share Posted July 3, 2008 Closer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted July 3, 2008 Share Posted July 3, 2008 Michael, The steel screw changes the 245 uH inductor specified on the schematic to about a 350 uH inductor. So, the question would be, is 245 uH right for the inductor in the tweeter circuit or is 350 uH right? Anyway, pretty simple to replace the screw with one that is non-magnetic making the crossover match the schematic. Bob Crites Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G.Kennedy Posted July 3, 2008 Share Posted July 3, 2008 ......... This is the other pair. KBOL 1981 models. ALK networks. This is like porn on the web .... nice.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easyone Posted July 3, 2008 Author Share Posted July 3, 2008 Is the screw indicated in the picture the one we are talking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted July 4, 2008 Share Posted July 4, 2008 No, we are talking about the screw in the center of the inductor located in the upper left corner. Check it with a magnet and if it is attracted to the magnet, replace it with either a brass or stainless screw that is not attracted to a magnet. Bob Crites Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easyone Posted July 4, 2008 Author Share Posted July 4, 2008 Ahh, this one huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easyone Posted July 4, 2008 Author Share Posted July 4, 2008 No, we are talking about the screw in the center of the inductor located in the upper left corner. Check it with a magnet and if it is attracted to the magnet, replace it with either a brass or stainless screw that is not attracted to a magnet. Bob Crites It definitely is metal according to the magnet. Do you happen to know what size screw that should be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted July 4, 2008 Share Posted July 4, 2008 245-350, what's the diff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted July 4, 2008 Share Posted July 4, 2008 245-350, what's the diff? 42.9 percent more inductance than specified on the schematic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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