KSW-300 Capacitor P/N?

[smiley]

Can anyone tell me the Klipsch BOM P/N for the 10,000uF 80V Su'scon capacitor (one of two on the PCB) on the power supply of a KSW-300 powered sub?

[mike stehr]

You could probably replace it with another

brand capacitor of the same value.

10,000uf 80v is a pretty big value.

I'm not sure about Digi-key, But I know Mouser

carries computer grade electrolytics in

this value.

You could get audio-grade caps through someone

like Micheal Percy.

But the value you want, are forty bucks a pop.

(I dought if you want to spend this much.)

I assume these are snap-in capacitors?

If you are going to replace one, I would go

for both.

You want to keep them matched.

Good luck!

THANX!

[smiley]

quote:

---

Originally posted by mike stehr:

You could probably replace it with another

brand capacitor of the same value.

10,000uf 80v is a pretty big value.

I'm not sure about Digi-key, But I know Mouser

carries computer grade electrolytics in

this value.

You could get audio-grade caps through someone

like Micheal Percy.

But the value you want, are forty bucks a pop.

(I dought if you want to spend this much.)

I assume these are snap-in capacitors?

If you are going to replace one, I would go

for both.

You want to keep them matched.

Good luck!

THANX!

---

Thanks for the help. I tried finding a dealer for Su'scon (the original) and didn't have luck. Tried the normal places (including Digikey) and most places just don't have caps this big (without being a computer grade). This one is a snap-in electrolytic 35mm x 50mm. Nichicon lists one, trouble is finding a rep to get it - most have minimum quantities and aren't geared up to handle retail customers for onesy-twosy stuff like me...

I'll try Mouser and Micheal Percy as you mentioned.

[mike stehr]

I think Mouser wouldn't be a bad choice.

The caps you are replacing are more than

likely general grade capacitors anyway.

And what Percy carries in the value you need are Nichicon super-throughs which are way overkill

in the way of power supply cap replacment for a sub amp.

These are esoteric power supply caps,

for a 'No holds Barred' upgrade if

you will.

I couldn't see them in a sub amp.

Cornell Dublier should work for this application.

You can go higher voltage on the caps,

but don't go under,(POW!)and I would stay

with the same capacitance.

You could more than likely overload the

rectifing circuit if you go higher capacitance.

A 80 or 100 volt 10,000uF cap should be fine.

The Dublier's might even be a better quality

cap, than the ones in the amp now.

If your worried about noise, Bypass the

power supply caps with a high quality metallized polypropelene of the proper value, to kill the possible hash from AC.

I was going to replace some power supply caps

on a amp of mine, and were the same value as

what you are looking for.

The Cornell Dublier replacement you need

is about twenty bucks a pop, I think.

THANX!

[mustangdaren]

Did you replace the capacitors you were looking for?  I am just wondering if you did this due to a 60hz hum and if it fixed the issue. 

[AtlantaKid]

I just changed my Klipsch ksw-300 capacitors on 7-Aug-2016, I bought my replacement capacitors at Amazon "2 Pcs. 10000uf 80V Electrolytic Capacitor, Snap in , 35x51mm, 105ºC" for $19.99, the only catch was, to take the old ones off, I had desolider 4 spots since the original capacitors have 4 poles (see pix attached). New ones I bought from Amazon had only 2 poles much closer to each other, I sent pictures of the capacitors and the board to a friend of mine who does vintage repair for hobby, he traced the back of the board and told me that the extra 2 legs on the old capacitor were used to anchor it down better, and told me to use the inner 2 wholes and make sure that the polarity is correctly maintained (gray strip, see pix), I had to use a small drill bit and enlarge the inner wholes and the caps fit perfect, after soldering them, I added some silicon caulking to couple of spots around the capacitors to keep them better secured.  Also used dab of the same silicon caulk on the side of the screws which keep the board down on the chassis.