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Khorn 60th anniversary style backs


rbakedq

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No not grumpy,,,, just gets tiresome as to what is a TWEEK and what is a TWONK,,,, Alot of crap gets by here thats just plain BS.. and that is one ov them,,, you drop that "mortor" and you just might go up in a "PUFF" Theres an ol saying,, "dont mess with love" PWK loved to tweek... but measure twice before publishing a valid tweek.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I did the same basic enclosure (60th Anniv. Clones) last winter because of necessity, not having two corners. I found that if I move my Khorns away from the wall by toe-ing them in, I lose a lot of low end. I think corners are the only real way to enjoy Khorns, although I'm sure enclosing them helps in the sealing to the wall department. No measurements to back me up, just my ears talking.-kevin

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The Khorn deep bass coupling issues is just that...one of the deepest bass tones.

I used a pair of 15% over sized Khorns with sealed backs in an open field for a party of 3000 back in 1989 and the bass was adequate.

My 60's are currently a foot plus away from the corners and the bass is also adequate.

Most of my music has the 10hz rolloff filter enabled, so if the filter feature is a 6db slope, maybe I'm loosing something on the bottom end and as a result, don't notice the need to fully couple into corners. I don't miss the burpy bass most recoring studios add to todays music.


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  • 3 years later...

I know this is an old thread. For what it's worth, when enclosing the backs of Khorns, it's better not to reduce the size of the horn when doing so. This means adding the back pieces to the outside of the horn, not inside. Also, good bracing is critical to reduce the chance of resonances.

I have enclosed the backs on one pair of Khorns that I restored. Can be seen here http://www.klipschupgrades.com/flkhorn.shtml These had all the Volti upgrades in them in addition to the enclosed backs on the bass horns. When I finished restoring them, I brought them to my home and compared them to my own fully upgraded Khorns that did not have the enclosed backs. That was a long afternoon that ended with a sore back as I worked alone to move the speakers in and out of my living room several times, trying to figure out exactly what sounded better about the enclosed back pair. The difference in sound quality is in the mid-bass. The weakness of the Khorn bass horn is the mid-bass, and enclosing the backs makes the tonal accuracy in the 150Hz - 400Hz range much better. I regret that I didn't try angling the cabinets in the corners to see if the bass performance suffered at all.

Greg

post-11090-13819667096722_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 years later...

For what it's worth, when enclosing the backs of Khorns, it's better not to reduce the size of the horn when doing so. This means adding the back pieces to the outside of the horn, not inside.

Greg

Reviving a old thread for possiblities, but Greg you you explain this a little more. I am having a hard time understanding it, I have been to your site dozens of times. Read your progress on enclosing the backs several times. I seen where you removed the 1/2" tail board and added the wider thicker piece. But I just don't grasp what you are saying here.

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For what it's worth, when enclosing the backs of Khorns, it's better not to reduce the size of the horn when doing so. This means adding the back pieces to the outside of the horn, not inside.

Greg

Reviving a old thread for possiblities, but Greg you you explain this a little more. I am having a hard time understanding it, I have been to your site dozens of times. Read your progress on enclosing the backs several times. I seen where you removed the 1/2" tail board and added the wider thicker piece. But I just don't grasp what you are saying here.

I'll try.

Normally, the last part of the Khorn bass horn relies on the walls in the corner to provide the sides of the horn. The drywall (or whatever the finish is on the wall) is the surface that the sound waves bounce off of on their way out of the horn. The bottom panel of the tophat forms the top of that part of the horn, and along with the tailboard of the bass horn, holds the cabinet in position so the spacing is optimum and the size of that last part of the horn is the 'correct' size and expansion.

So when we build cabinet sides onto the Khorn to take the place of the walls in the corners, we should install the plywood in the same location. That means spacing the plywood sides out and installing them so they are where the drywall normally is. What I see happening with some enclosed backs, is that the plywood is being installed so that it is inside the horn area. If 3/4" plywood is being used, I see it being installed 3/4" of an inch in from where the drywall surface is. I understand why, because it keeps the whole cabinet, including the top section flush to the wall.

If installing the plywood outside of the designed horn area as I suggest, it pulls the whole cabinet, including the top section away from the wall 3/4", and that has obvious aesthetic issues. On the http://www.klipschupgrades.com/flkhorn.shtml

'FLKhorn' restoration I did, I actually extended the backs of the tophat panels so they would sit flush against the wall after enclosing the backs of the bass horn. This was a lot of work, and something I wouldn't do again. I would simply make new plywood panels.

I don't doubt that enclosing the backs of the Khorn bass horns 'inside' the horn area will work, I'm just saying that the better way is to have the plywood outside of the horn area.

Greg

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Ok so now that I have done a little thinking, I am going to try and repeat you in a different way as this is how I under stand it. What you did(Greg) is in a way mock up a false corner(not that you may have actually done that), and that is how you figured to make the backs were they needed to be, to be kept outside the horn. Instead of in 3/4" which would in a way take up 1.5" of space plus what ever the height and depth is of the horn. Your braces you installed would have been parallel(or flush) were most would have put their back enclosures thus putting them in the horn it self.

Now, why did you end the sides where you did and not extend them out to the front of the cabinet, kind of like how the Jubilees are. Second or last which ever, would it be possible to attach a bottom and top to make it a full cavity, or would this affect the sound to much. Ok so that wasn't the last question, do you remember the width of the new tailboard, and do you still have one of those brace templates laying around.

Thanks

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I didn't extend the sides for aesthetic reasons. The sides end where the grills are normally located. They still need corners.

I think installing tops and bottoms permanently to the bass cabinets is a good idea, but it does make them bigger and heavier.

I was just looking through my 'FL' Khorns restoration webpage and thinking how LONG ago that seems.

Greg

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I had my DIY Klipsch Corner Horns in solid concrete corners and had good bass down to about 40 Hz. In my next home the side walls was still was concrete but the wall behind the horns were drywall. I lost about 8 db below 100 Hz, I was thinking about bracing the wall but then other factors came into play and I had to scrap the horns. If you corner load the K-horn with flimsy walls you will get nowere near the bass the horns offer.

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  • 3 years later...

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