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RF-7, RC-7 crossover resistor mod?


draynes

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I have read a lot of threads about adding a mills 10 ohm 12 watt resistor to the existing 2 ohm resistor on the high freq board.

Will this change help the highs the best? Or is there more that needs to be done?

Do I just solder the 2 ends to or near the already existing 2 ohm resistor ends?

Is it done the same way on the RC-7 and RF-7?

I want to be sure before I try this. I think if I add the resistor I will be happier and probably would not to do the extensive crossover as some of you have done. Just want to make sure I do it right. I know that deang has done crossover mods for many. But as I have read he is not currently doing them at this time. Is there anyone else on this forum the does something similar to what deang does? This sounds pretty easy I think I can tackle it with out any adverse reaction. I am new at crossovers and electrical components dealing with home theater so please bear with me if I ask a question about something that is common knowledge to many of you guru's out there.

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  • 4 years later...

Anybody got the answer to the original question? How do I solder in the 10 ohm resistor to the existing? It says paralell, does that mean that both legs on resistors is solered together?

Yes. I hot glued the 2 resistors together and bent the leads around the board. You can then solder the new resistor to the old resistor where it is currently installed on the board. They're wired parallel.

post-15193-13819860660698_thumb.jpg

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To the OP, according to my deeply imbedded sources within Klipsch :), the cones ring right above the crossover point. After hearing the mod and noticing the absence of ringing, the Klipsch employee wanted me to bring a modded crossover to Klipsch HQ in Indy for analysis. It was determined that the small adjustment to the LCR alleviated most of the ringing. Some have tried just the resistor modification, but all agree that going the extra mile with the Mills resistors and higher quality capacitors net significant gains as compared to just adding the resistor to the circuit.

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  • 3 months later...

So it's January 2014, new to this tap talk way of surfing a forum. I am FINALLY getting around to putting my HT together after several years off after a move. I see the deang mod to RF/CF-7's. Is this something there are directions for of does it take a skilled hand at doing? I am seriously interested. I have the above fronts along with a pair of vintage Heresy's (rear channels) which I believe there is also some updates that could be done. The model number for my side channel speakers is eluding me but they have the center midrange/2 side firing horns. Just picked up a new HT receiver with Audessy 32 and a new SVS-SB13 Ultra. Just getting around to hanging/wiring all together.

The question again, how to do the deang mod. Thanks...!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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You sent me an email saying you had RF-20s and CF-7s -- I didn't quite know how to respond. So, what you were actually asking about were RF-7s and RC-7s?

I don't recommend anyone doing this kind of work unless they know what they're doing.

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The resistor mod I pictured above is detailed as far as where it goes and how it's attached. If you're feeling froggy, jump on this mod. It's extremely cheap and easy. It also yields audible (positive) results in harshness reduction. If you want the full blown GeanG mod, I suggest going to the source and letting him do it.

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Carl, didn't you eventually go all the way with this? Any difference to your hearing?

Yes I did. I had you do both my RF-7's and my RC-7.

The difference was subtle (to my ears) when compared to the resistor mod. The resistor mod made them more listenable during elevated listening levels. No more squinting when you cranked the volume knob LOL. I listened to stock speakers a couple years then almost 2 years with just the resistor. After the all out mod, the biggest difference to me was with female voices. Vocals seemed a little more buttery and more realistic. Like I said, it was subtle but noticeable. Had I done it all at once, the difference would be anything but subtle.

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  • 6 years later...
  • 6 months later...

I'm a little late to this thread I know.  I've had the Dayton 10 ohm resistors sitting around awhile and just did this project a couple hours ago.  Although it is stated to add (1) one 10 ohm resistor parallel to the 2 ohm resistor in the crossover, I find that there are two of them on the HF board on my RC-7 (2001) (116476 crossover).  I can identify from another poster's picture the one they installed, but I'm curious if I should add the extra resistor to both sides of the HF crossover board, or just the one pictured with the crossover part number and the black round capacitor side.  My RF-7s have crossover 116474 (2005) and have the mentioned 2 ohm resistor, but the other is a 1 ohm resister, except the capacitor values are different between the two crossover part numbers and the LF boards are very different.  That's why I'm stumped if I should change out the other 2 ohm resistor on the RC-7 (116476) with a 1 ohm resistor, solder on a 10 ohm resistor in parallel, or leave this particular resistor alone.  Any insight would be so much appreciated.  I've included pictures.  Thank you all!

cRC-7 116476 HF Board.JPG

cRC-7 116476 LF Board.JPG

cRF-7 116474 HF Board.JPG

cRF-7 116474 LF Board.JPG

Edited by RPK
Just did project, I found more detailed information in my speakers.
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