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Stripping speaker paint


ajcllc

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Black paint can be stripped if done gently. I mean to use paint remover sparingly so as not to soak through to dissolve the glue under the veneer. It can be sanded lightly, too, but be careful as the veneer is thin.

One other thought, the veneer will still have pores which will retain black paint. As to whether this is acceptable, it's a matter of subjective preference. I don't think it would bother me and it can be a complement to the grain. I think you could probably find stain to match your belle's.

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It will make a mess!!! I would recommend "citristrip" which does not contain methylene chloride. Be liberal with the application, and you can apply it several times. Use a wide putty knife to gently scrape the stuff off. Follow the instructions and let it sit until you can take your finger (wearing a glove...) and stir it up and the paint comes up. Certain paints are very difficult to remove, most notably lacquer. After you have most of it off, you can use the citristrip and some 000 steel wool to work on the pigment particles in the grain. Sometimes works, sometimes does not. Regardless, when you are finished you will have to sand it. Use a 320 grit and an random orbital sander, and be careful not to sand past the veneer itself. It's very thin.

Above comments are absolutely correct, DD points out that pigment particles will remain in the grain, but if stained afterwards, can look ok. Mike's generally correct in that less than good grain patterns were often the candidates for black lacquer.

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First: See the safety warnings below. Read the directions on the can of any stripper, remover, solvent, and the warnings.

The spec sheet for the units just says "black finish". I expect it is a spray lacquer.

You can test this by using some nail polish remover on a cotton ball or paper towel. Nail polish is a brush-on lacquer and nail polish remover is acetone, at least the classic stuff.

If so, you should Google around for removing lacquer. The recommendations I see is to use acetone which you can find at HD. Of course, go outdoors and take all care listed on the can. It is flammable. Take care of respiration, as with any solvent. And rubber gloves. Mask off everything except what you're working I'd take out the drivers and crossover.

I see some sites about refinishing guitars. I don't see them talking about a hazard of the stuff attacking the glue holding on the veneer but it is at least a concern of mine.

My point is that it is necessary to know what you're removing before committing to a solvent. Slathering on a remover meant for enamel or varnish is not the first choice.

Some years ago I used a Homer Formby remover for varnish, outdoors. The technique was put some of the liquid remover in a small metal bowl. Then I used fine steel wool to wash the finish off the surface and rinse the pad frequently. Nowadays, fine Scotchbrite is good substitute. You might be able to scrub the black out of pores with an old toothbrush.

It is very important to do any stripping outdoors. I've been involved in several cases where people use flammable solvents indoors. In two cases the spark from an electrical switch ignited the vapors. Once a wall switch once a power strip. In other situations it is pilot light on a water heater. You can't be too careful. Again, read all instructions (respiration, gloves, fire, etc.) and don't for a minute think "I can't happen to me."

Best,

Wm McD

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Vendors were from various sources, but the specs are still #40 sheen lacquer primer, #40 sheen SSG black and #40 sheen clear coat. Generally, the black is/was shot within about 5 minutes of the primer, same with the clear. They use/used small spray cans with the lacquer for touch-up if they found a flaw, etc. The paint is shot from a production gun with a pressure feed system from the 55 gallon drums. There is a thread that has a link that shows dtel's new Cornwalls under construction in Hope and shows the gun system being used to spray the clear lacquer on the walnut veneered cabinet. I don't recall the thread, but the pictures are good.

The vendor is now Valspar/ OPEX. The lacquers are "production" lacquers made for Klipsch at the OPEX factory in North Carolina (I believe it's in NC or SC...., but don't have my notes handy, plant telephone numbers handy, etc.). These "production" lacquers are made to a specification for a customer, and are usually sold in 55 gallon drums (including Klipsch). The manufacturer normally does not give out the "production" part number as that specification belongs to the customer. During a conversation with a rep several years ago, they advised me that there was nothing special about the Klipsch production lacquer, only that it was a specified sheen, and was pre-thinned for spraying. I was able to get the local SW store to special order the three #40 sheen components from OPEX for me, and I have the "part numbers" in the workshop. They are the OPEX numbers as opposed to Klipsch part numbers though.

I had to thin what I obtained with about 10% - 12% lacquer thinner to be able to spray it properly. The amount of thinner depends on the pressure of the gun, the nozzle size, distance of the gun to the target, etc. If you thin it too much, it will literally dry before it hits. Not enough thinner and it will either clog the nozzle, or you can get "runs" in the paint. When I mix lacquer, I use small pint size stainless steel pots and measuring cups to make sure I've got it right. When I go to spray, I always spray about an ounce of thinner through the gun to make sure the nozzle is clean and I have my patterns are correct. Then I put the mix in the gun cup.

Not sure of the factory nozzle size, but I have experimented with several nozzle diameters. Since I don't do that much black lacquer on the projects I've restored, I use a DeVilbiss HVLP finishing gun (high volume, low pressure), with the compressor set at about 50 PSI and the gun at 30-35 PSI. I just take my time, and usually use a 1.3mm nozzle (fine). Different nozzles can do different effects. I like the "satin" look to the semi-gloss that a very fine nozzle achieves, but others may not.

Lacquer is funny stuff, and once it's on.... it's like a rock. Over the years, I have used acetone to "strip off" lacquer and then lacquer thinner to clean up and wipe down..

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I have a pair of sub cabinets to refinish for a friend in the next few weeks... I will take some photos and comment on the process during and pointers as well. They are going to be a very high gloss black, with ML Campbell materials, their black Clawlock post catalyzed lacquer primer with a few coats of their Krystal clear conversion varnish, sanded and buffed to a beautiful finish.

http://www.mlcampbell.com/

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