colterphoto1 Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 experience with cutting Hardiplank siding? I'm leaning toward getting the shears but can't obtain locally and want opinions on quality and speed of cut before sending off $200+. thx Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesboy Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 Michael, I've run quite a bit of Hardiplank. I've found the best way to get a smouth cut on it is using a diamond blade mounted in a circular saw. The diamond blades can be fairly expensive if you buy one that you intend to use for a long time. But if you are just doing a small job there are some cheap throw away diamond blades that you can get fairly cheap. I've tried some of the shears but to me they make too rough of a cut, particularly if you are tring to do rip cuts around windows and doors. Make sure you wear a good quality resperator when cutting Hardiplank as the dust can be quite harmful. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbflash Posted November 2, 2008 Share Posted November 2, 2008 Michael, I'm not sure what the difference between Hardiplank and Hardiboard is. I used Hardiboard (cement material) siding when I built my shed. Lil Danny and I used a circular saw with a blade that was made to cut the Hardiboard, which we bought at Lowes for maybe $10.00. When we had to cut notches the best thing I found was to use a jigsaw with a blade to cut ceramic tile. Any other blade would carp out in seconds. Good luck and your project looks GREAT! Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisinvermont Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 Michael, I just ordered a set of shears for my addition/garage project. I have cut using the blade but it is nasty and very dusty. Given my current issues with lungs I opted for the shears. Dust free and works well. I got the Pactools shear for $219 from Northwest Power Tools. Here is a link if it works! http://www.northwestpowertools.com/shears/ss404.htm I have only done a quick test with the shears and they work well. I am still working on the trim. This weekend will be major siding time! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted November 3, 2008 Author Share Posted November 3, 2008 Menards stores here have a retrofit shear that attaches to a drill. No time to order tools. I bought the blade today for $17 that is specifically made for Hardiboard (not by James Hardie though). We'll see. Good luck with your project. The shears just looked slow and not very accurate in some videos I saw of them in use. I have a respirator and we're working on the downwind side of the building with the wind carrying away from my Milwaukee circular saw. Spent all day today hanging corner boards, window trim, drip edge, and kicker boards for siding. Tomorrow is the day. It's been beautiful here- probably 65 today. It was so hot next to the building that we worked on the shady side when we could. M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 Michael, I'm not sure what the difference between Hardiplank and Hardiboard is. I used Hardiboard (cement material) siding when I built my shed. Lil Danny and I used a circular saw with a blade that was made to cut the Hardiboard, which we bought at Lowes for maybe $10.00. When we had to cut notches the best thing I found was to use a jigsaw with a blade to cut ceramic tile. Any other blade would carp out in seconds. Good luck and your project looks GREAT! Danny +1 Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted November 4, 2008 Author Share Posted November 4, 2008 We hung some siding today. The Hardiplank blade in circular saw worked just fine. The dust is a bit aggravating, but I wore a good quality mask (the heavy duty mask type with exhale valve), goggles, and ear plugs when sawing and have no discomfort at all. I did take the precaution of standing in a large open area with the wind aiding the exhaust of the Milwaukee saw. Had to swap Bostich guns however, I'd bought the framing coil nailer and needed the 66C coil nailer for siding. .090 x 2 RS hot dip galv nails per the spec sheet. The gun has a built in fine adjust for depth setting and works very well. We also got these little friction levers that clamp onto a previous course and hold the next board for nailing. For $70, this is like having a third man on the jobsite. We sided one end and the back side up to about chest height. Steve is bringing scaffolding tomorrow. Tired, time to shower up and collapse. M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdaddy Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 I have always used a diamond blade on an edge grinder and found it to be very versitile. You do have to have a steady hand though. And yes wear a dust mask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill H. Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 Michael, I am sure your already half way thru, but I found this Link I thought might be helpful.................. http://www.ilevel.com/literature/t_jamesHardie.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Matthews Posted November 8, 2008 Share Posted November 8, 2008 Probably late to chime-in, but for others who take on a hardi project, I want to add that I've used both a jig-saw and a reciprocating saw when cutting notches and internal squares in hardi. The reciprocating saw runs circles around the jig saw. Just make sure that you hold the board still and don't put too much pressure on the reciprocating blade against the hardi. Otherwise, the teeth willl grab the board and flop it around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted November 8, 2008 Author Share Posted November 8, 2008 A friend brought over some nippers today. They are a purpose built tool, built on the chassis of strong variable speed drill (not the 'strap on' kind). These work very quickly, produce a good edge (though not as sharp as from a saw blade) but are very quiet and have nearly NO dust. Wish I'd gotten a pair at the beginning of this project, but $279 for nippers and $359 for nail gun is getting a bit spendy. At least we have one of each in our circle of friends now. I'm going to try using the nippers since we're up in the gables now. Those long diagonal cuts make a LOT of dust and the nippers should be handy for this phase of the work. I'd even feel confident taking them up on the scaffolding to cut pieces up there, one thing I would not do with a circular saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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