Ray_pierrewit

Yeah, that makes sense. Plus I've got the serial numbers for the beaters, so getting replacement drivers shouldn't be a problem. Thanks

I picked up a real beater pair of LaScalas cheap, the cabinets are in good shape, but the woofers, horns and crossover were all changed to various unknown garbage. I plan on refurbishing them in the near future and am slowly picking up the required pieces. Found someone local selling these for a great price: 15" Eminence HiFi Woofer #15797. Any chance this particular woofer could be a suitable substitute to the k-33? See the screen capture for details. I know it's a little thin on parameters, so I haven't got much hope. Scouring the web unfortunately did not help. Many thanks!

Sending PM.

Wow! I hadn't noticed this was posted. Thanks so much Chris, can't wait to read it!

Saw this on FB marketplace. Very good prices. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1598234160391737/permalink/2972197579662048/?sale_post_id=2972197579662048

I built them, used them happily for over 3 years, then decided to build Claude's Qpies. If it weren't for the aesthetics I would've kept them, guess I'm kind of superficial! They sounded great though, even without any additional EQing. As long as you are aware that they still won't be producing any sub bass, I say go for it! They are such an easy and cheap mod that if you're not satisfied, well you burn them and go back to stock.

Wow, that's kind of you! Thanks so much.

Would you mind talking about the Ashly unit a little. Since my analog 3 way active crossover developed issues I've been seeking a DSP based alternative and found an Ashly Protea 3,24cl for sale locally. Is it pretty intuitive to use and set up? Are you amps balanced or unbalanced? If unbalanced, are you using XLR to RCA cables? Thanks for any insight you might have! Daniel

So the seller of the DCP3060 has ghosted me. Too bad. I've found a newer Xilica UNO-U1616, does anyone have any input regarding this series of Xilica products? It's got the phoenix terminal block type connectors, 16 in 16 out, only programmable from the computer using Xilica's software. Any opinions? Thanks

Yeah, I'll be aiming for the "pretty" route. I've searched through @Matthews threads with great interest. Thanks! I do still have the Sentry IV-B, those are in my studio and haven't moved around much, still sitting atop my QPie bass bins. Last night my Sony 4300F active crossover crapped out on me, so I wired the factory passive xovers and drivers and brought out my 2A3 SET amp. Simple setup, sounds great. I was looking to get a DSP based active xover and am currently negotiating with someone selling a Xilica DCP-3060. I was on the fence about buying the Xilica, it's an older unit with only 3 outputs, but the timing of my Sony getting sick and the reasonable price of the DCP are really weighing in. Plus @Chris Awrote to me that the DCP should be fine in my setup and is willing to help with the settings. Daniel

Wow, looks like BOTH previous owners of our old beater LaScalas had the same ideas and awful execution! I'll post pictures later of the random bits and pieces mine were cobbled up with. Scary stuff! You did some great work there, it's really useful to have that thread with detailed pictures. I won't be going for an industrial look as these will be in our living room. I've decided to, when the time comes, try @Dave A's method of pounding the side panel off once I've chopped the HF section off. I'll then just use 3/4 BB and replace the sides, the top will need a 1/4" BB to repair some half baked ideas someone had. So Dave, just how easy is it to pound the sides off? Do I just use a rubber mallet and blocs?

I just acquired a ridiculously cheap pair of LaScalas ($250 CDN, so around $200 US). Unfortunately, the previous owner really went to town with some questionable modifications, especially to the top section (added carrying handles, changed the horns, changed the drivers, remove the doghouse access panel... these must of sounded awful!!). The bass bin is very much intact and well sealed. I plan on chopping off the top section, keeping the bass bin only and will purchase a set of the 510 clones from ebay and go two way. Now, I would like to add some 1/4" baltic birch around the sides, top and bottom of the bass bins. Ideally, I'd like to avoid using screws or brad nails. Does anyone have any great ideas how to ensure proper pressure while laminating said bass bin? This project is for well into next year, so no rush. Mostly exploring my options right now.

@babadono Thanks for your comments. It's a DCP 3060 here is a bit literature I found on the unit: The DCP-3060 is a complete 3 input - 6 output digital loudspeaker management system designed for the touring or fixed sound installation markets. The absolute latest in available technology is utilized with 32-bit (40-bit extended) floating point processors and high performance 24-bit Analog Converters. The high-bit DSP prevents noise and distortion induced by truncation errors of the commonly used 24-bit fixed-point devices. A complete set of parameters include I/O levels, delay, polarity, 6 bands of parametric EQ per channel, multiple crossover selections and full function limiters. Precise frequency control is achieved with its 1 Hz resolution. Inputs and outputs can be routed in multiple configuration to meet any requirements. The DCP-3060 can be controlled or configured in real time on the front panel or with the intuitive PC GUI accessed via the RS-232 interface. Software upgrade for CPU and DSP via PC keeps the device current with newly developed algorithms and functions once available. Multiple setup storage and system security complete this professional package. I contacted Xilica and they unfortunately no longer service this model, which is something to think about. For now it will be used in an active 3 way setup, no subs. The subs will happen when I eventually switch to active 2 way. I'm also a little concerned about using the knobs and dials on the front panel to do all the adjusting, as the PC software is no longer available. The seller assures me it's really easy, mind you, he works for a live sound production company and knows way more than I do. I've glanced at @Edgar suggested thread, but honestly didn't take any time to decipher his schematic. I'm still on the fence whether or not to purchase it. I've never heard time-aligned drivers in a home setup before, so I don't even know if it's that important for me. Right now the pressing issue is a bit of EQing and perfecting the crossovers. Daniel

I sent a PM to the resident triamping pro on the forum, @Chris A, though perhaps others could also chime in... Very quickly, several rapid fire questions, feel free to give one word answers... My current setup is as follows: vintage analogue 3 way active crossover (Sony 4300F) and a 6 channel Classe CAV 75 amp. My speaker/driver combo is as follows: QPIE bass bin, Electrovoice Sentry IV-B mid and HF horns, with the A55g as mid driver. The Sony 4300F has allowed me to dip my toes in active crossovers and I love what it's brought so far. Being an analog active crossover it hasn't gotten any provisions for time alignment or EQ, things which I believe are clearly the next step. I have the opportunity to purchase a well priced, functioning second hand Xilica DCP 3060. Knowing that I haven't currently got any subwoofers, do you consider this to be a step up from what I've got, or more of a lateral move? One day I intend on going 2 way with subwoofers, would the Xilica work for that as well? The Classe too? If I purchase the Xilica, I will need to purchase XLR to RCA (balanced to unbalanced) cables, as the preamp and amp are RCA only. Do you see any problem with this? Many thanks for any helpful input! Daniel

I'm not averse to going this route before building some subwoofers. Do you have any experience or DIY recipes to suggest?