derrickdj1

Low wattage amps are enough power for a lot of Klipsch users due the the high sensitivity of the speaker and size. It is like a sports car, just because it can most people won't be running their system that hard toward clipping. With room gain of easy 10 db, there is some free headroom. .

Yes, the gain in switching produces more output from the amp and first perceptions are the the increases in volume/gain may be laperceived as better but, longer listening ends with fatigue due to the Hi's im many cases. Ultralinear delivers more power and promises no more. Tubes that are meant for pentode or beam triode will work well in most systems. All the ultralinear amp that I read and know about have more power in ultrilinear mode. The power tube is used entirely different than in tirode mode. The KT 88 pair can produce nearly 100 watts even pushing low ohm speakers..

I started my tube journey over 10 years ago with a hybird Yaqin 2100 amp with tube preamp and SS rear. Excellent amp along with several of the EL 34 amps which are exceptional for the money. I have never owned an American tube amp but, have owed several Mc Intosh amps, SS for comparison. Fast pace and to 2024, I am on a 3rd tube amp, lol. Not funny, lol. I tried the OldChen K3 Kt88 twice with the same transformer failure. More on that later if interest. China Hi Fi refunded my money with no problems. This brings up the Willisenton R8 KT 88 amp. It is a moderate priced amp and a back breaker going on 60 lbs. The topic is tube rolling and this is the easiest amp that I have ever had that you can audibly hear a change with multiple tubes, preamp and power. The bias adjustment take about 10 second for a power tube and not needed for the preamp tubes. Preamp tubes for the amp are Willisenton 6sN7x3 , PS Vane Fever CV 181z, Shuguang Black Treasure CV181z, and Willisenton 6SL7. The rolling power tubes were the Shuguang Black Treasure KT 88 , Willisenton KT 88, PSVane KT88, Tel Funkenl Black Diamond EL 34, and an old quad pair of Sevlanta 6550 C winged quad on a trade for my NOS Tung Sung EL 34 tubes. Well, I am very impressed with this amp and it's sound. The tubes can make or brake a system. This amp has very noticeable changes in tube rolling and can be transformed by tube rolling. I did all my listening in triode mode using just a few watts. I am not going to bash stock tubes because they most likely come from the same factories and are not inherently bad. The change of the Power tubes changed the bass and lower midrange. Where as, the preamp tubes influenced the midrange in this particular Kt 88 amp. The point of the post is the fun with rolling, not the cost, lol. and the quickness for comparison. These topic are always so biase and less than scientific. because it took 20 min. for the tubes to warm. This thread is not that serious. What's your take? I did find some nice combo with my current tubes without spending more money. The old motto is nothing exceeds like excess! See, I did not tell you about about magic tubes, the must have amp, system . or made SS comparison. Just roll with it.🥴 Rolling is not like steak or lobster, it is more like skirt steak vs t bone?

There are a lot of things going on between SS and tube gear. Tube gear can't have the accuracy of SS due to the tubes and design. Tube integrated amps usually will handle 4 an 8 ohm loads. That can and can't be the case with SS avr, and integrated amps. Tube amps can operate with different tube and design factors that can affect the sound. Impedance swings should not be a major factor unless the amp / speakers are grossly mismatched. Impedance fluctuates widely. Additional watts for the most part are about bragging about a big beast when only a fly swatter is needed. I have class D, Class A/B and tubes, I have driven my RF 7 's, Forte, Mc Intosh speaker and other with 25-1000 watt amps. No real diff with gain adjustment in my listening levels.

Switching amps or power supply can result in a sonic difference. For instance with a tube switching from triode mode to ultralinear will be perceived immediately due to the increase power. Bass control is easier with SS gear compared to tube gear. This warmth or sterile terminology is not the best wording. Some tube amps appear more warm due to distortion for the most part and suit high sensitivity speakers. SS, better control of all frequencies for the most part. I don't compare my SS gear to the tube gear. I like class A, class A/B, Digital and tube gear. One is not better than the other, it's the user's implementation toward their goals.

Good luck with the project.

The short answer as above is yes but, it has to match the other components. You want a system that matches sonically, not just more bass. subwoofer tones are not has important as

Lots of integrated amps SS and tube but, not all MC Intosh. Do you have an idea of a particular amp? Budget?

Let's see what is going on. How large is the room, what amp and processor with inputs available, is this for 2 ch , movies or both. There is nothing magical about a XO point because it depends on how the system will be used. My speakers go down into the 40's but, the XO is at 120. That is high and some subwoofers will be audible and localized. Then why set the xo so high. It is system dependent. The sub is an 8 in. Klipsch and the speakers are Focal Aria. Bass management is the right question to ask. It is based or room size, seating distance , material source and genre (music vs movies or both). For good recommendations, more info.

Let's see what is going on. How large is the room, what amp and processor with inputs available, is this for 2 ch , movies or both. There is nothing magical about a XO point because it depends on how the system will be used. My speakers go down into the 40's but, the XO is at 120. That is high and some subwoofers will be audible and localized. Then why set the xo so high. It is system dependent. The sub is an 8 in. Klipsch and the speakers are Focal Aria. Bass management is the right question to ask. It is based or room size, seating distance , material source and genre (music vs movies or both). For good recommendations, more info.

I owned the Forte I and RF 7 I and II. They were very comparable and may not be a good companions except for their purpose. The RF 7 is very versatile. It is great with music and movies. The Forte can be used for movies but, the Heritage speakers are more design for 2 ch. listening. I used both speakers with 12=200 watts amps, tub, Class D, Class A, Class A/B and no real different in enjoyment. Don't buy speaker without listening if possible based on public polls. This is an election year, lol. Heritage and Reference speakers have their fans and it comes down to choice. The main difference is in the midrange. The RF 7's are closer to ear height and will have more body in the midrage and less dominant bass with the forte but, the midrange will be more on display. Our hearing is geared toward the midrange but, music like body that the RF 7's deliver. I eventually chose the RF 7 II over the Forte and sold them do to space. Still wish I had both.

read post below.

What was the point of this flawed test. In the end we were held hostage to a badly design video. I hit ff button. Nothing wrong with owner's pride.

KlF 20 and 30 are very nice speakers and some of the best from Klipsch non-Heritage line. Tubes may be the answer for a change of taste and maybe a crossover update. I liked the sound of the KLF 30 over my RF 7II's.

I use a tube amp and can switch 6CA7, EL34, 6550 and KT88 and a host of preamp tubes all in the same tube amp. It is not for accuracy, flat responses, room measurements or the likes. I have done all that and only look for my personal enjoyment in the setup of various systems. I have owned McIntosh and heard many of their offerings over the years as well as Moon, Boulder and quite a few other Hi End makers. Switching SS will yield about nil if the the other amp was sufficient. We are questioning a good Mc.