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  1. Today
  2. Congratulations. I have 990pro 250 ohm for many years. Just keep ready new set of velour pads. Originals have a tendency to flatten and stay that way, which may change the sound. Avoid the leather pads also, totally different sound. And with many amps/preamps these cans don't sound that good. But when you hit the right combo, they can sing. The best I heard them with are Yamaha A-S line of amps. And Yamaha pro gear, do not have to be expensive ones.
  3. If you scroll back a through this thread there are a few lists people made.
  4. Cool I'll get on that. Anybody make a full list of cap values? The sub came back to life after some time and is working fine currently. When it went out I was really pushing it to see what It could do. Is it recommended to replace the resistor too even if it's not currently damaged? I'd be tempted to raise the watt rating on it, but would that pose a risk to other components? Thanks for the advice! -Sterling
  5. Don't know too much(if anything) about the math behind horns..but sure love how they sound.
  6. Oh how wonderful to see you back here Gil. God Bless you.
  7. ‘Pretty hairy Had to look twice that they were not Yeti dancers
  8. That one time at band camp
  9. No Affiliation Marketplace - Klipsch SPL-120 Pair | Facebook
  10. No Affiliation Marketplace - Klipsch Home audio | Facebook
  11. My first impressions are great. I did not get a chance to run ARC or clear settings but will in the next few days. If only swmbo was similarly enthusiastic!
  12. Hey Gil! Good to see you posting again. Musta worked out the computer issues. Do you like tablets? Sometimes they are easier, but typing is slower, one or 2 fingers. But I love the pinch/zoom.
  13. I had a Panasonic under dash 8 track. Carried some Firesign Theater tapes in my car.
  14. Yes I do, but it's in pieces. I had replaced the 7199 driver board a long time ago an got a different one to replace it. I need three 9 pin sockets and forget to order them.
  15. Sampled some bourbon yesterday. I forgot I’d taken another pic of one of the trains last week. The old footbridge across the river is pretty low over the tracks. you can just about get some shots that look like you are on the train. A bunch of empty coal cars heading north.
  16. Well, looking at the rectangular input cup, I don’t see “8 ohms”, however I do see “1986 KLIPSCH AND ASSOCIATES, INC.” Seems that you’ve inadvertently pointed me in the right direction. Guess that pretty much answers my question. 😆. Many thanks kind sir.
  17. Looking forward to hearing your impressions-
  18. The forte 1 were produced 1985-1989 the very first run early models have a round input cup marked 4 ohms the later models have the larger rectangle input cup marked 8 ohms. Not sure how long they ran the early vs older model but that would be the only way to guess age that I know of.
  19. Recap it, especially the 6 capacitors closest to the resistor.
  20. I recently acquired a very nice Forté I set. One of the previous owners removed the labels. Is there a way to date them based on appearance, driver model numbers, the “..completed and inspected” internal label, and/or crossover components? They’re oak, light green grills, the passive radiator had no sealing medium, and the crossover autotransformer is labeled “T2A-D1”. I understand that T10A autotransformer replaced the T2A at some point. The “completed and inspected” is dated 9-9, 9-10, and 9-11, which I don’t think really helps.. TYIA
  21. Hey boss there is a pair of 400s on Reverb just happen to see them there. I mean I don’t know how much money you wanna spend but they have a pair of them for sale. Don’t quote me but I think they were around 275 for the pair what are you going to do, if you need them always get bit, it’s just a nature of the beast, I guess
  22. Yesterday
  23. Hi there! I just picked up a r-115sw free locally. It worked great for about 15 minutes when I tested it at home, then poof. No sound at all now. I found this thread and then poked around, seeking a dead resistor (started with r39). I don't see anything visually wrong at all, and r39 tested appropriately on my multimeter. Any other ideas of good places to start checking? I'd love to get this thing working! It would be replacing an energy 8" XL sub—a big difference. Thanks in advance!
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