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  2. 100% sure I bought it directly from KnuKonceptz ... no clue ... will send them a note to try to figure this stuff out
  3. dtel

    Vintage Cast Iron?

    Well, it came and it is slightly different, the sides are not as deep as advertised but still great for what I wanted it for and it's built well and heavy. It will go great with the others, I am a little surprised how well it's made and seasoned, it's only the second Lodge I have and I will not hesitate to get more if it's a size I need. It's in the oven now for the second time today adding a little more seasoning to what looked like a really good start from the factory. .
  4. 5-23-19 “ SIDE-TRACK ” Photos....2018's 6005 SE DC amp, a re-do Above, we have the amp as it was finished in 2018, and being used up till about 5-19-2019. Each main ground was a " Trio" of 12+12+14 AWG Mil Spec m22759/11 wire. Eight ground runs were 24 separate wires. Below is as of today, not yet done, but nicely on its way to a single 8 AWG m22759/11 bus bar conversion. I got tired of hearing the " Trios" signature throughout my amp, and yearned for hearing the grounds to be single 8 AWG m22759/11. It may possibly be nice with the L.S.E.S. supply that is in this 6005 amplifier. This weekend, should have it up, running to hear, and then get back to the KT88 DC SE amp build !! This will be interesting to experience and then critically evaluate on my reference discs. !!!!
  5. Spec sheet for the AL-5. Seriously doubt that the network schematic is in the public domain. https://f072605def1c9a5ef179-a0bc3fbf1884fc0965506ae2b946e1cd.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com/product-specsheets/La-Scala-2018-Spec-Sheet-v01-1.pdf Considering you have an older cabinet, my recommendation would be to go with the CT120 tweeters, A55G mids and a new AA network, all from Crites. These are all proven to work very well together and sound great. You could also replace the woofers if you want, and if you are going to go that route, I would suggest the Eminence Kappa 15C from Parts Express. All of the above I have done many times with great success. You can then sell off the parts you replaced to recoup a portion of your costs.
  6. I don’t know what that stuff is, but it’s definitely not Karma Kable. It even looks like two different kinds of wire, the twisted pair blue and black on the right, and the black and black side-by-side on the left. I’ve bought Karma Kable a couple of times, in two sizes, 10 AWG and 8 AWG, and in both cases, it’s very fine-stranded tinned copper, with no plastic tube in the middle. Both sizes looked exactly like the pictures on the Knukonceptz website. The 10 gauge has smoke/grey and silver insulation (which is where the SS designation comes from), and the 8 gauge is blue and silver. Neither size had any black sheathing. Due to the tiny diameter of the very high number of strands, the wire is very flexible and can be easily cut with a knife, which makes it quite easy to work with. Tinning the ends is also very easy. The only issue with the large sizes, particularly the 8 gauge, is that it’s too big for some connectors. This is not a factor with 14 or 12 gauge. As well, the prices have not gone up in at least 14 years. I paid the same price for the 8 gauge ($1.65 a foot) in 2005 as it costs today. How rare is that?
  7. @ForKyleigh Why not just build a set yourself? It's not that hard, really, and the parts are available through various vendors. I do have an original set of AA's but I just built a new pair with new autoformers, caps, coils, terminal strips, etc., for my Belle clones last year. Finding a pair of used AA's is getting tougher and tougher for a reasonable price. I've pondered on building a set of the elusive AB-3's which were never really used in the Belle's but, from what Roy D told me, were a step in the higher order of crossovers towards the end of their run and before Mr PWK's death. Lots of parts, though.
  8. dtel

    Super MWM

    I didn't think you would mind since a few posts are surely not going to stop this thread, plus people building the SMWM need to think about finishes for easy cleaning later. Dust never seems to slow down or stop. Thank You, actually that picture of him painting got me thinking about it.
  9. I had a feeling that might be the case. I left all the wires attached and put the probes on each Capacitor. Understood. Thanks. I've tired to search what the differences are between the AL-4 and AL-5 network without luck. I ask because the Klipsch Lascala Upgrade package is a proven set of hardware with the AL-4 and associated OEM transducers. By chance do you know what makes up the AL-5 network? Or is that still PWK Inc. propriety privilege since it's a new product?
  10. No other changes just replaced leaking caps and the difference was very surprising, well worth it for anyone thinking about doing it. Someone the forum replaced them he had a bunch of caps leftover from some he did and volunteered to do it for me and he did a great job, he no longer posts here anymore. I did buy the old AA's used, just for yard speakers but they started leaking later. Old and new
  11. Good info, thanks, and I'll pass it along to the guy running the show with these. I'm just providing space in exchange for honey and some experience and he moved a bit faster than I could get a dedicated fenced in area stood up, and this is where he decided to put them as a compromise.
  12. This isn't a valid measurement for caps, but that's OK, you need to either to replace the caps or replace the entire network.
  13. John, You know my thoughts on the Audioquest type 8 and type 4 cables. I won't argue endlessly that these cables are superior and everyone will hear a difference and love them (especially with cable naysayers). Try them yourself risk free from Audio Advisor and I have a feeling many will be quite surprised. I am using type 4 on 396s currently and haven't had an itch to change it. I wanted a bit thinner gauge cable to try to brighten up the top end a bit at lower volumes. Really wish I could biamp these speakers. These speakers IMO for home use truly cry out for biamping. Perhaps I will attempt to convert them to such some time down the line. Anyhow, back to the cables, give them a try. What do you have to lose?
  14. Looking forward to see what you come up with. I'm building my 2x12 bass bins this weekend so hopefully I'll have something to show as well. Cheers.
  15. Today
  16. Put them out in the sun for a couple of days and wipe them down with a white vinegar and water solution to mitigate the smoke smell.
  17. Go with CT120 tweeters A55g mids and new Crites AA networks. Be happy.
  18. Now to make the decision re: re-furbish, ALK, Crites or Klipsch Heritage Upgraded AL-4 package for $1200. The OEM AA networks sound good but hey- it's of mid 70's lineage so it's time to ensure that they continue for another 40+ years. K77 Round, K55-V appear to be OEM, haven't dropped the bottom to visually see the woofer. These worked in a Bingo Hall in Livermore CA for a few decades and then for 2 more decades in a smoking environment. I was shocked that they functioned so well. I just wish there were some forum members in Central California that would permit me to listen to a few different options. I've got about 80 hours of reading about balancing networks on-line and now I'm in full IO (information overload). If there are any members that would be kind enough for me to hear some balancing networks in a Lascala in CA, please let me know. I'm driving to Sacramento on Saturday to hear a new pair of Lascala II's. (200 miles to the closest Heritage dealer) Uhg ...but its a good kind of ugh;) Resistances: K77=6.5 ohm Left/6.8ohm Right. K55V=10.7ohm Left/11.0ohm Right. And the Woofers=3.7ohm Left/3.5 Right Left Speaker Network Capacitors: Aerovox 100V 2uf from left to right on network: 6.9ohm, 1.4ohm and the 13uf is 4.5 ohms. Right Speaker Network Capacitors: Aerovox 100V 2uf from left to right on network: 7.1ohm, 1.3ohm and the 13uf is 4.5 ohms. Any suggestions? A Loaded question no doubt but my prior speakers were RF-280F's fed by an Oppo-205 and a PrimaLuna EVO300 with KT150's and occasionally EL34 valves. Other valves on amp are factory PrimaLuna.
  19. The screws appear to be #8 sheet-metal screws. The length will depend on the specific speaker. A problem with trying longer screws is that the dog-ear tabs are captive in the slotted and capped mounting bosses, but some designs have excess tab material that could be trimmed to fit the thicker ceiling. I don't have a picture of your exact speaker, I am just trying to help with ideas.
  20. The above is one of the reasons I respect you. Touché! That's the best I can describe my experience upon first unfurling my new cables out of the box and snickering at the arrows for the direction of the current! I quit the snickering, but the smile is still on my face listening to both systems with this wiring. I went overboard but don't regret it, did it in spurts over a couple of years.
  21. Since we are on the 942 subject, can you tell me what model woofers they are using? Many thanks. PS: my coffee machine is possibly better than yours, so why not come here instead? 🙂
  22. I like the symmetry of your arrangement, but for the sake of diagnosis, have you tried playing your sub woofer tucked into the corner?
  23. Was this ^^^ the cut and paste, or is this ^^^ your opinion that you just typed out, John? As I said, I have quite a bit of respect for your opinion and if this is your impression I believe you. I don't think you're given to hyperbole or confirmation bias. If there was no difference, I believe you would be able to tell. I also know there are all kinds of opinions on cables and its effect on speaker sound. I am in the camp that everything makes a difference. It all comes down to "how much" is a person willing to spend, for "how much" improvement? Every person should let their wallet (or in my case curiosity) be their guide.
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