sivadselim
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Posts posted by sivadselim
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Where do you live Martin?
Unfortunately in Buenos Aires, Argentina.UInfortunately?!?!?!? I hear it's an awesome city. [H]
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I am still using the Satellites from the ProMedia setup.
Crossover seems a bit high on the receiver though... 200hz.
Probably about right.
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I use Audyssey, and have had better results setting my LaScalas to large. In fact, they are set at 55HZ.
IIRC, your Integra has more advanced and more flexible bass management capabilities than most AVRs.
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As hinted in the thread, there is really no need to use a Y-adapter unless the sub's Auto-ON (if it's so equipped) is not workig properly, in which case a Y-adapter might help.
With your front speakers, it is understandable why you would want to run them as LARGE. It is also understandable why you would want to use the "Extra Bass" (is that really what it's called?) setting so that the sub can participate in the reproduction of not just the LFE channel but some of the front channel bass, as well This sort of setup can be made to work but it can also result in, as also hinted in the thread, a lot of redundant bass. How much redundant bass there would be would depend upon (in addition to your room's effect, of course) the low-pass frequency which might be being applied to the front channel bass frequencies that are duplicated at the sub. With many AVRs it can be difficult to ascertain what that frequency might be. If you can still set a front channel "crossover" setting while the front speakers are set to LARGE, this may well be the low-pass that is applied with the "Extra Bass" setting. So, setting it to 40Hz (or even lower if you AVR allows it), near the low-end capablilty of your RF7s, might be useful. If, however, there is no way to ascertain or adjust this setting, your AVR may well duplicate all those front channel frequencies below, for example, 80Hz (or even higher). In which case your setup would be reproducing a significant amount of bass redundantly from both your front speakers and the sub between the RF7s low-end roll-off and the 80Hz (or whatever ) low-pass that is being applied to those front channel frequencies that are also being sent to the subwoofer.
Assuming that you can set different crossover frequencies for all your speaker channels, I think that a better option would be to try setting the RF7s to SMALL with a 40Hz crossover setting. This will allow you to still get a lot out of your front speakers' prodigious low-end capabilty without worrying about reproducing redundant front channel bass at the subwoofer, as well as also relieve your AVR's front chanel amps of having to amplify those frequecies below 40Hz. And, honestly, you may want to even try using the more oft-cited 80Hz (for all the speakers, btw). I know that this might seem high to you for your speakers, but the octave difference between a 40Hz and 80Hz crossover setting is significant in terms of the amount of work the AVR's amplifiers have to do in order to amplify the lowest frequencies. If clean headroom is not a concern or issue for you, though, this may not be a significant concern for you. But realize that even with an 80Hz crossover setting, your front speakers' woofers will still be used pretty significantly to reproduce the front channel content.
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Assuming you mean the receiver's crossover setting, you set that based upon the capabilities of your speakers, particularly your front 3 speakers. Except in a couple of very unique circumstances, your subwoofer's capability doesn't dictate what that settng should be.
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Sweet. I miss my RSW-15. [:'(]
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If you are going to gain match your subs like that, and use MCACC to set the sub channel's level, honestly, there really is no reason for you to get an SPL meter. Unless, of course, you want to do some measuring. It can be useful for adjusting the relative phasing of the two subs. Misleading, too.
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There are some AVRs available now with truly independent subwoofer outputs and a version of Audyssey that can do just that.Processing would have to be very sophisticated to properly set up 2 non co-located subs automatically by the receiver.
That said, Audyssey (at least the more capable versions), because of the specific way it works, actually does a very good job of dealing with phasing anomolies with two (or more) subs connected to a single subwoofer output.. I donl't know about MCACC but I do know it works very differently from Audyssey.
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Adjustment of Two Subwoofers
- On the back of the subs, turn their levels to 50%-60%, no higher than 75%.
- On the back of the subs, turn their crossovers all the way up to their
maximum point. You set the crossover in the receiver. - In the receiver's menu, set all speakers to SMALL.
- In the receiver's menu, set the crossovers of all the speakers to 80Hz. You
can deviate from 80Hz depending on the low frequency extension of your speakers.
Make sure the crossover is always set at least 10Hz-15Hz higher than the minimum
frequency response (+-3dB) of your speakers. - In the receiver's menu, set the crossover frequency of the LFE channel to
120Hz. - In the receiver's menu, set the level of the subwoofers to zero.
- Turn off one subwoofer.
- Play the test tones through the subwoofer that is on and measure its
response with an SPL meter. Adjust its level on its back (not the receiver) so
that you get approximately 73dB. - Turn on the other subwoofer and turn off the previous subwoofer.
- Run test tones through it and adjust the level on its back so that you get
approximately 73dB. - Now, turn on both subwoofers and do not touch the levels on their back.
- After you adjust the level of each subwoofer independetly, it is a good idea
to run the calibration program inside the receiver. In addition to checking the
level of the combined output of both subwoofers, the receiver will also equalize
them. Alternatively, you can use an external parametric equalizer. - Double check the settings with your SPL meter. Run the test tones again and
adjust the levels of all the speakers. Make sure the SPL meter is held steady at
a 45 degree angle at the primary listening position. Don't stand directly behind
the SPL meter. Stand on the side. It is best for the SPL meter to be on a
tripod. - When the time comes to adjust the subwoofers, move the SPL meter slightly to
the right and slightly to the left and average the dB level that it registers.
This is level-matching. And it can work just fine. However, it is also very possible that after applying EQ, in unison, to two (or more) level-matched subwoofers that they would no longer be level-matched. Not really a big deal but for identical (not dissimilar) subwoofers connected to a single subwoofer output, I would recommend simply gain-matching them. It is probably easier to do and has some advantages over level-matching.
- On the back of the subs, turn their levels to 50%-60%, no higher than 75%.
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An AVR's auto-EQ/auto-cal can't do anything, directly, to adjust the phasing between 2 (or more) subs connected via Y-splitter to a single sub output or 2 (or more) subs connected to separate sub outs that are not capable of being independently adjusted by the AVR. Phasing between two (or more) subs in this instance would, of course, have be adjusted as best as possible at the subs, themselves.
An AVR's auto-EQ/auto-cal in this instance would (could or should), however, be able to (try to) compensate, to some degree, for any acoustic anomolies that might result from 2 (or more) subs not being in phase with one another. In other words, if there were a severe dip in the combined FR at a particular frequency that was attributable to subwoofer phasing, you would (or might) expect an AVR's auto-EQ/auto-cal software to try to address that.
But, I do not know what the exact capabilities at the lower frequencies are of the version of MCACC in question.
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I assume you mean in unity. In other words, it will adjust both subs' combined output, but not individually. Unless the AVR is equipped with a version of Audyssey that will do two subs individually, Audyssey wil do the same; that being, EQ and adjust the combined output of two (or more) subs, in unison.It will adjust the phase and standing wave corrections for the two sub.
Or am I misunderstanding? [:S]
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As CECAA850 said, there is no problem at all in using a Y-splitter.thanks I was trying to understand that myself someone reccommended in the avs forums using a ysplitter on the main sub preout, is this recommended, do you lose any dbs by doing this just curious since never tried it before.
However, you really should assess what your AVR's capabilities truly are. If it has 2 sub outs (and you only have 2 subs), whether those sub-outs are EQ'd/bass and time managed/level-matched/etc. individually or not, you should just simply use the 2 separate sub outs to connect your subs (unless wiring with a Y-adapter somewhere away from the AVR provides you with tidier wiring). But if your AVR is capable of EQing/bass and time managing/level-matching/etc. 2 sub outs independently, and you ARE going to use the MCACC to EQ/bass and time managed/level-match/etc. your setup, then, by all means, I would take advantage of that capability.
What is your AVR's model # (forgive me if you have already stated this)? I will have a look at the manual and see if I can decipher what its capabilities are in this regard.
It's an output, not an "input". What do you mean it calibrates settings based on the two locations? It either can adjust the two sub outputs individually or not.The extra sub input is for convience
only on the Pioneer avr's. MCACC does calibrate settings based on the
two locations, this is according to Pioneer's tech support.
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Not sure how this has resolved (or if it has) but just because an AVR has 2 separate sub outs and/or is called by its manufacturer an "x.2" AVR doesn't mean that the two sub outs are treated individually and independently. On some AVRs they are, and the AVR can EQ and bass and time manage each output independently, but on many AVRs the 2 sub outs are simply duplicate outputs that provide nothing that is any different than using a Y-splitter on an AVR's single sub out could provide.
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you need a green veggie [
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Your sub is in a cabinet right?
Yes it is. Is there more bass that comes from the Active than the passive?
The majority of that sub's output will come from the active rear driver. The passive radiator will mainly be used for the really low frequencies. It's not entirely clear to me how your subs are hidden but I wouldn't place an RSW-15 in an enclosed cabinet no matter its orientation; but especailly with the rear driver facing rearward. That sub needs to be out in the room with the rear driver facing a wall or corner.
In my mind, I really thought the Velodyne was going to pretty much slam the RSW-15 in SPL but unless I perfomed my testing inacurately, the Klipsch was the winner in just about all of my testing.
What you are demonstrating to yourself is that the sub 20Hz stuff is not as important as the "slam", which occurs above that. And the RSW-15 has plenty of slam.
I sure do miss mine. [
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Maple?
Yes maple.
Well, good luck, Orange Peel. Might be slightly easier to find one than winning the lottery. [:S]
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Maple?
From the description @ Klipsch site:
The RSW-15 is available in only a 120 volt version and comes in furniture-grade medium cherry or jet ash wood veneers.
and from the listed specs:
FINISHES:
Cherry, Black wood veneer -
I think the implication, here, might be that they measure outdoors and convert the results to what they would be @ 1m, 1/8 space. [:^)]The Specs section of all of these, from the $320 KW-100 to the Palladium all reference maximum output @ HZ in 1/8 space corner placement.
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I'm in for $20 if willland will lose his sig. [
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.........I don't need measurements..............
Yeah, who needs measurements, anyway?
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I couldn't care less about the Klipsch name, really. I just don't like bullshit. If someone takes some credible measurments of the SW115 and it is trounced by the Epik Empire, fine. But unitl then, you don't really know what you're talking about, do you? It's just speculation. I owned an RSW15 and was quite happy with it. Most of the people who gave IT shyt didn't know anything about IT, either.It seemed to me that you care more about the Klipsch name. In my opinion, Klipsch engineers don't do a very good job when it comes to subwoofer. It either a hit or miss. Takes into consideration the price you have to pay to get a good quality subwoofer, the alternative is always better.
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Yeah, I didn't think you had much of one.So, what is the point of your post?
My point? Value for your money not name! Just because Klipsch made good speakers, doesn't mean they make good sub, too.
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Who? Me? I think you mean "defensive", not offensive.Somebody on this forum is on the offensive when I said that the Epic Empire will eat this sub alive! Well, all of the testing and numbers for the Empire has been well established. And base on that, the SW115 is no match for the Empire. I will take the Empire over the SW115 anyday of the week. The only Klispch sub that I have ever bought from Klipsch is the Sub-10. At $150, it will give the competitors a run for their money.
So, what is the point of your post?
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15" Subwoofer Driver Identification
in Home Theater
Posted
You set that atop that gorgeous speaker?!?!?!? [
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