TheKillerTomato
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Posts posted by TheKillerTomato
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Thanks, youthman. My thread searching skills are not up to par ...
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I'm back! Ready to complete the system.
I need two rear surrounds, but I'll have to mount them on a ceiling, horizontally. The specs say the RB-51 has 2 1/4"-20 threaded inserts and a keyhole. I called a dealer, and he could not find any threaded inserts. Are they on the bottom or back? If on the bottom, how would I mount these as I planned?
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I currently use a cheapo JBL 150 watt sub, with the sub channel boosted to about +5 db and the gain at 60%, and my receiver tells me that the sub is too loud during the MCACC auto calibration.
I understand how efficient our Klipsh speakers are, but couldn't you just turn up a sub?
I'm looking at the HSU VTF 3.3, or the HO.
I know that you know ten times as much as me about subs, Ear, from your posts at AVS - are you looking at picking up an HSU?
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I'll wager that once the Elites ship, and someone rips one apart and compares to the older 360's, that several of the components have been replaced or improved in light of the overheating and other issues that the older models experienced.
I feel that I beta tested the 360 for Microsoft for $400 of my money.
The lack of HDMI was ludicrous to begin with, and now they add it to a newer model, instead of just creating an adapter.
Honestly, I could care less about the hard drive.
As for the public reaction - have you ever seen so many people pissed about an upgraded product? Shouldn't that tell you something?
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If you want another good source for a subwoofer test, go to the Danley Labs website and download the Fireworks recording, there is content down to DC on it. About 3 minutes and 20 seconds in there is a big burst of low frequency energy..... beware as most subs will not take it at all.... especially ported ones, unless they have a high pass in which case they should not bottom out.
It is a .zip file that is 25 megs, before unpacking. You must have high speed and winRAR to unpack it, at that point you can burn it to a CD. Beware that it features a dynamic range of 70 DB, and is very quiet until the big bangs occur. There is a warning at the site as well...[
]The sales staff at Magnolia Home Theater will LOVE this demo!
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No onboard HD DVD player? Why bother.
Also, that HDMI adapter better work for existing 360's, or I'm gonna go buy a PS3 and never look back at Microsoft.
[:|]
What HDMI adapter? There is no add on adapter from MS for the 360. The new 'model' has it incorporated into the unit.
And you are buying a gaming console only for the DVD player??? Oh well.
Yep, you need to buy a PS3. [:S]
I suspected that there had to be a few out there. [^o)]
My point is that there should be an HDMI adapter for the 360. There is no excuse for M$ft not offering HDMI with the 360.
Why buy a newer 360 if it doesn't do anything different, compared to the old 360? The HD DVD player onboard would be an improvement.
What is "elite" about the newer version? Will it play certain games that old 360 won't? Will IPTV not be available for regular 360 owners? I just don't see enough improvement to make me get one.
I'm sorry I've made your cute little round, yellow circles make strange faces.
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No onboard HD DVD player? Why bother.
Also, that HDMI adapter better work for existing 360's, or I'm gonna go buy a PS3 and never look back at Microsoft.
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I'm not giving up on the prospect of picking up an RW-12d. I can get it for $300 less than the HSU. I'll take my "Finding Nemo" DVD to the store when I get a chance and try out the Darla(?) scene, along with some select CD's.
Thanks for all of your input, fellas.
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I appreciate the link to the tests, but their last update was over a year ago, and I'm really curious how the RW-12 would stack up. I think output wise, it would be right up there.
I'm trying to find an RSW-10d to audition, and then see if it fits the budget.
I am mainly a home theater guy, but with my upgraded system, listening to music is much more enjoyable. I want a high output room shaker, and I want to stay with Klipsch if possible.
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If you want a sub with higher performance from Klipsch, try the RSW-10d or one of our RT subs.
I agree, I recently bought an RSW-10d, for the price range area of around 1100.00 and considering the size of the unit itself, its an amazing sub.My tv/living room is not optimally designed for home theater. It is 20 x 20, with 12' walls that cathedral to approximately 18 ' at the center, with one wall open to a large dining room/entryway with 14' ceilings, and the back wall being half open to the kitchen.
Will the 10d be enough? I'm really needing high output.
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The design of the RW subs ports is not the usual round-section tube. Others here have noted that flaring both inside and outside ends of a port tube reduces (but does not eliminate) port noise under high drive level.
Port noise happens because the air inside the port is pressurized and when that air leaves the port tube and enters the room, it expands and depressurizes, thus the "port noise".
Flared ports do address this to some extent, but also tend to shift tuning to a higher frequency. In the RW's we use a very long port tube which allows us to tune it to a lower frequency. In fact, the port tube is actually longer than the diagonal dimension of the cabinet which we accomplish by "wrapping" the port tube at the upper corner opposite the external port exit. Now, when you make a port tube long in order to tune it low, you also increase turbulence inside the port tube cause of all the internal surface area. to deal with this, we use a large diameter oval-shape tube that brings velocity of air in the port back down to a level that minimizes turbulence and port noise. is there still some under maximum drive level? Yep there is. Could we eliminate it? Yep by limiting the performance of the sub under normal operating conditions. Our engineering choice ( and good engineering requires lots of artful choices ) is to put up with the occasional noise from the port in order to extract more performance out of the design.
It should also be noted that one of the design criteria for the RW subs is low distortion. You don't hear much talk about sub distortion but the RW's are cleaner than most. You may or may not agree with our design choices, but there's lots of subs to choose from if your cup of tea is different than ours.
Bob, thanks again for the response.
When you talk about tuning to a certain frequency, what exactly does that do? Does that give optimal performance at a certain frequency? Does it have anything to do with the low end frequency response? As I stated in another thread, I am considering the HSU VTF 3.3, with dual flared ports. As a poster noted above, it does not have the port noise he noticed with the RW-12. Also, the HSU has a frequency response much lower than the RW. So, I don't understand the advantage of being able to tune it to a lower frequency, when the flared port sub has lower frequency response.
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The RW-12d is a new(ish) model and replaced the RW-12 adding digital control and a few other nice features.
It should be noted that the other subs you mention are larger in internal volume and it gets easier to offer performance as the cabinet size increases. The market today is very strong for small subs and we are always trying to keep our subs as small as possible while offering performance that we believe will make people happy. However, we understand that some people are not bothered by large cabinets. There are lots of subs that choose a different formula for success than we choose.
If you want a sub with higher performance from Klipsch, try the RSW-10d or one of our RT subs.
Thanks, Bob.
It may simply be that my listening area requires more output, as opposed to nice features and a small box. I understand that there are engineering choices to be made when designing all Klipsch products - I just wish you had decided differently!
You guys ought to design a flat out boomer. Low extension, very high output. Put it in a 5' x 5' foot cabinet, weighing close to 300 pounds, and market it as the Klipsch Slabcracker - guaranteed to cause fissures in your slab and/or footing.
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I'm very proud of my Klipsch RF-82's, RC-62, and RS-52's. I wanted to complete the system with an RW-12d. (Don't have the budget for the RT series) However, all the research I've done puts this sub middle of the road, for the price tag. I hear about port noise, and lackluster ouput compared to HSU and SVS subs in the same price range.
I'd love for someone to convince me that the RW-12d is comparable to the HSU VTF-3.3, which costs $699 as well, but so far I've found noone willing to argue that point. Am I off base here, or what?
When is the new line of Klipsch subs going to be available?
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rmlowz,
Good to see I am not alone suffering from the sub bass illness. [
] The more subs....the better.Right front corner: Rt-12d loaded into corner with RSW-15 linked in with the ARC calibration serving the output of both. Rt low pass set at 55 Hz, 36 dB slope, flat setting. Both phase inverted (RSW-15 set at 0, because the phase invert of the RT-12d passes thought the line out) ...so the Klipsch passive radiators at lower bandwidth mesh in phase with the absolute polarity of a ULD15 II, also up front, right side.
Left front is a Synergy Sub12, LP set at 40Hz, phase inverted. A most capable sub for the price. It's clean & high output is amazing at and below 30 Hz.
On left side wall is another ULD15II. Don't always engage this one.
Rear sub, filling in with the surround channels is an older modified SW15II, 70 Hz LP, phase inverted. Kept a bit low on the output scale, for merely back-fill foundation purposes for the occasional full-bandwidth surround effects in movies.
Room is odd-order, 9'x15'x21', with rear doors opening to larger room. ~2800 ft3 / plus-factor with the doors open of course. The subs are level matched running in a highly complementary fashion, where bass bandwidth is handled with each sub's respective forte. Speed, impact/slam, SPL, extension and clarity/pitch definition; all are a factor. Room modes are smoothed out beautifully, albeit an extreme approach... It has taken a few weekends of final testing to get it subtle (you read that correctly) and yet massive when called for. But the main reason is for effortless dynamic range, which I am accustomed to from live classical performances. This also excludes muddiness at low or high volumes, while especially tuned for a variety of 'deep-frequency' source content - music and theater media.
I have an eclectic source mix: progressive electronic music, but I also love acoustic jazz, fusion, rock and vocals. Add movie blockbusters because punch is important, as extension. Yet, subjective musical balance is always the starting point for me. A system should develop really deep, abysmal bass when the content calls for it, and then should go away. That is part of the wonder and surprise of certain types of music, either live or reproduced. Upper and middle bass should not suffer for the deep bass capability, with bloated or exaggerated character. Balance is the key for a system to disappear and get you closer to the music.
I have many pipe organ favorites so the system has to do it with aplomb and pitch definition... The in-room total response easily delivers the output of 32 ft pipes. I also have recordings of one of two existing pipe organs with 64 footers that start to challenge not just the playback system but the middle ear's capability to hear vs. the entire body's. The shuddering effect (if you have heard a large instrument live, you know what I mean) is jaw dropping. It defies logic when it can be done in a small space in the home, when the natural setting is a huge space for a huge sound. It does take a significant bit of acoustic horsepower. If any of you would like, I can expand on some superb recordings that will test the mettle of your system. PM me.
Deep bass works IF you have the highs, mids and upper bass as natural and properly handled by a capable system. This kind of bass capability requires it.
"My name is m54. I am a bass freak..."
...and I am begging my wife just to upgrade my little JBL 150 watt PB-10.
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Anyone? I really would like to get a Klipsch sub if possible.
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I was looking at picking up this sub, but I don't want it if port noise is going to be a problem. I currently have a cheapo 150 watt 10" down-firing sub that sounds fine and does not give me problems on that scene.
Why port noise? What does it sound like? Should I consider another sub?
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I think the guy did right going to the AVS board to ask the question. While there are many good speakers on the market and lots of speaker fanboys over there, almost everyone came back and defended Klipsch. CC is not a Klipsch retailer and the sales guy was trying to make a sale. Pure and simple. AVS is where I started my HT education. It brought me to here and lots of other boards where I am always surprised in the depth of knowlege the posters have. I read all opinions and then form my own -- then make my purchases. Klipsch speakers, Yamaha receiver, Sony SXRD, Pioneer DVD-A/SACD player, Toshiba HD-DVD player --etc.
Cheers,
Bill
I began over at avsforum, as well. The reason I posted this over here is because I know many of the very knowledgable Klipsch fans post over here, and I wanted them to match wits with TB. I simply lack the information necessary to defend Klipsch on his level.
I guess I was rallying the Big Guns. I'm very proud of my Klipsch system, and I didn't want somebody tearing down the product on a public forum, without his opinions being properly challenged.
Klipsch rocks.
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Was the Sony sub hooked up via LFE, or did you just have the front speakers routed through it?
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I would love too but recently my Trend Micro throws a message at me that says "dangerous spyware on this (AVS) website, get off this site very fast, pronto, etc." So what am I to do?
JJK
Use your work computer, or maybe a co-worker's computer? They won't mind the spyware.
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Thanks for the replies. My undedicated room is approx 20' x 20' with it entirely open on one side, and halfway open on another, and 18' ceilings. I need to move a lot of air.
Would the RT12d do the job? Should I get two? Should I consider the high-dollar sub?
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I know we have some very knowledgable posters in this forum, and some of your input would be nice in a particular thread over at avsforum, questioning Klipsch quality.
See the thread below:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10006306#post10006306
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Congrats, Prof., on the acquisition of that monster center, and for the excellent use of the word "mating."
hehe
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Here is my setup with the smaller RC-62. I use an omnimount center channel speaker shelf. With the RC-7, you made need two of them side by side. I was going to do two side by side if I got the 64.
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I recently picked up a Pio VSX-81TXV, two RF-82's, an RC-62, and two RS-52's. I already had a JBL PB10, 150 watt 10" down firing sub. I would like to upgrade with a reference sub, but I'm wondering what type of difference it would make. I see that I would get a lower frequency response, but when I do my auto calibration with the receiver, if I have the sub's gain turned more than half way up, the receiver will tell me the sub is too loud, and must be turned down.
I am a 75% home theater guy, so would the Klipsch sub really make a wealth of difference?
]
] The more subs....the better.
RB-51 threaded inserts for mounting?
in Home Theater
Posted
The funny thing is that I called a store (to remain nameless) and asked if the threaded inserts were on the back or bottom, and after waiting on hold for 5 minutes, he came back on the phone and said the klipsch specs were wrong, because there were no threaded inserts on the back or bottom.