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fanplant

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  1. I have 4 classics. Two I grew up with, one I built in HS, and one I bought from the grandson of the guy who built it. Also a friend has another my father built along with a match we built together. They all are close but with variations. My fathers are 35 and 37. Mine is 37 and the grandpa was very different with a doghouse that was built a little different altogether. THEY ALL SOUND THE SAME. Also there is a current ebay auction with one factory and one clone built 4" smaller probably to accommodate a window sill or something and if you were blindfolded I doubt you could tell. 
    Three decimal points? It's called wood glue!!! I don't have any pull here. But some long time members have done some wonderful things for the group, be kind and respectful!

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pr-University-Speakers-Model-S-8-Classic-For-Western-Electric-1086B-Amplifiers/192712870730?hash=item2cde950b4a:g:d7IAAOSwtida64Tm:rk:50:pf:0

    here is the pair my father built with my new crossovers and I'll add more later
     

     

    unispkse.jpg

    • Like 2
  2. 19 hours ago, ajsons said:

     

    Aaron,

    Are you still using the University C-15HC? What do you think of it?

    There's one for sale on Craigslist in Tampa for sixty bucks, in excellent condition.

    If you say it's good, I'm going to buy it.

     

    I wasn't able to save the pictures of your build.  We need to see some of them.

    I no longer am using the C-15HC. I'm using the C15W. The HC though efficient and "special" in its own way doesn't go high enough or doesn't have enough "voice" but goes much lower It's been a while since we A+B them free air next to each other but the HC is a no go for the classic. If there's a special project $60 is a great price but IDK what that would be, maybe a VOTT A4?
    If you get close to NJ/NYC let me know.

  3. 2 hours ago, ajsons said:

     

    Where did you get those cones? And you used the last four? You and your "friend" like to blow them up? (LOL!)

    You need to find another "friend"!

     

    I'm keeping my spares.

    At one time, I think you could get them reconed at Great Plains Audio, I might be wrong. Their website is down right now.


    I SWEAR IT WAS A BAD SOLDER JOINT ON MY AMP INPUT! (lol) 

    I don't think Bill at great plains audio has anymore cones. I got lucky that a speaker repair place had what they told me firmly was the last 4 they had. I'm the one that got them for Planetred. They sure do look like stock but came glued to a very lightweight accordion surround not the integral paper of the cone. No spiders or voice coils.

    • Haha 1
  4. 45 minutes ago, planetred said:

    The c15w has a flat smooth voice. Nothing sounds quite like it. My friend and I tried an eminence in his classic, delta pro15a, but it had too much voice.

    Wish I could help you further.


    I'm that friend and while there's nothing like the C15w the delta pro wasn't too shabby though it did have to much voice (voice as in bright vocals/ typical guitar speaker). I've wondered if a fancy electronic crossover with a steep slope could compensate but the simplicity of the first order three way crossover is nice and simple.

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
  5. That drawing is a thing of beauty!! Thank you!!! You are the man!Thanks for doing your OHM work :)

    I'm sorry I didn't reply sooner. My friend and I did a little cleaning up of the old non N3 crossovers. We where trying to figure out why the older C15W was louder than the newer on. We ran them straight / full range and the old woofer is twice as loud @ 50 Hz and the newer one is noticbly louder @ 125 Hz. It's amazing how different two woofers of the same sound so different. So it turns out the crossovers we have are working fine. We still want to build some new crossovers though.

    Are the controls pots or L-pads? Or is that the same thing?

    here is a pic taken with my phone. I'll get a better one tonight. The one on the left my dad and his friend built over 40 years ago and the one on the right was just built by me and my friend.

    old and new university classic loudspeaker

  6. Thanks Dave and everyone reviving an old thread. I have a
    c15w that fell apart from age in my parents hot attic. A friend of mine
    refoams so that is not a problem. I was looking for a driver I could
    really abuse and get myself evicted :lol: . I'm getting the feeling from Q-man
    bass range is more a component of the cabinent than the driver. So I guess any chunky woofer will do what I need?

  7. Hi Everyone



    I started a new thread to hopefully get some more opinions (i posted this in Re: Q-man's University Classic
    thread).

    I built a university classic 20 years ago in high school wood shop.
    Sadly I never loaded it or built a match. Now that I have a 5.1
    surround system I would like to use it as a sub woofer. I have a Bogen
    mosfet 100 watt amp and now need a 15" driver. On to my question...
    What driver wold make my classic a tight sub woofer. I suppose I could
    make a spacer ring if the driver extends past the mount (since it is
    rear loaded). I would love to go cheap but I realize I might have to
    spend something to get something. Parts Express seems to have quite a
    collection here:

    http://www.partsexpress.com/resources/indexes/sb_guide.cfm

    I
    have a C15W but last time I looked at it the surround was rotten. I
    can't see why I can't use a modern driver since I'm just looking for a
    "eviction box" (my pet name for any sub woofer)

    Ive done some research. Looking at the testing
    done on the C15W in this thread:
    http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/673112.aspx
    and this jpg:
    http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/storage/3/673714/C15W%20woofer.jpg
    and figuring the SPL @105dB 1W/1m using the calculator here:


    http://www.bcae1.com/speaker.htm

    Looking at Fs, Xmax, Vas, and sealed volume the speaker's below would be okay. The original C15W Vas is 232L to 286L which converts to 8 to 10 cubic feet.

    My figuring the best match for the C15W would be these two
    speakers:
    EV EVX-155 15" EXTENDED LF SPEAKER $386
    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=294-560



    and





    USHER 15PA 15" PA DRIVER $230
    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=296-632









    However in the interest of my wallet and my intentions to
    have a serious subwoofer I think the speakers listed below would be a good
    match for my needs.

    DAYTON DVC385-88
    15" DVC SERIES SUBWOOFER $127
    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-190







    DAYTON TIT400C-4
    15" TITANIC MKIII SUBWOOFER 4 OHM $199
    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-420





    DAYTON
    RSS390HF-4 15" HIGH FIDELITY SUBWOOFER $160
    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-468





    None of them seem as efficient as the C15W and I will have
    to make a spacer for some of them. I do realize that speaker specs can't always be trusted and this might be a crap shoot...




    Any help and or comments would be appreciated.


  8. Okay Ive done some more research. Looking at the testing

    done on the C15W in this thread:

    http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/673112.aspx

    and this jpg:

    http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/storage/3/673714/C15W%20woofer.jpg

    and figuring the SPL @105dB 1W/1m using the calculator here:

    http://www.bcae1.com/speaker.htm

    My figuring the best match for the C15W would be these two

    speakers:

    EV EVX-155 15" EXTENDED LF SPEAKER $386

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=294-560

    and

    USHER 15PA 15" PA DRIVER $230

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=296-632

    However in the interest of my wallet and my intentions to

    have a serious subwoofer I think the speakers listed below would be a good

    match for my needs.

    DAYTON DVC385-88

    15" DVC SERIES SUBWOOFER $127

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-190

    DAYTON TIT400C-4

    15" TITANIC MKIII SUBWOOFER 4 OHM $199

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-420

    DAYTON

    RSS390HF-4 15" HIGH FIDELITY SUBWOOFER $160

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-468

    None of them seem as efficient as the C15W and I will have

    to make a spacer for some of them.

    Any help and or comments would be appreciated.

    Thanks

  9. Best bet? Sell it and build / buy a subwoofer, a device intended to cover the lowest octaves.... in my opinion from at least 16 hz - 32 hz. The classic horn is going to be way down at these frequencies.

    Good point but I already own a Klipsch KSW-10. I would like to do this just to do it. Your point about the 16 hz - 32 hz range is a good one. My dad has a pair but I haven't heard them in a long time. The opening note from the organ pedal tone from Also Sprach Zarathustra was always intense and was the way my dad would demo them. That was from 30 watt Macintosh amps and people that where hard up on how many "watts" didn't get it[:)]

  10. Hi

    This seemed like the best thread to post this. I built a university classic 20 years ago in high school wood shop. Sadly I never loaded it or built a match. Now that I have a 5.1 surround system I would like to use it as a sub woofer. I have a Bogen mosfet 100 watt amp and now need a 15" driver. On to my question... What driver wold make my classic a tight sub woofer. I suppose I could make a spacer ring if the driver extends past the mount (since it is rear loaded). I would love to go cheap but I realize I might have to spend something to get something. Parts Express seems to have quite a collection here:

    http://www.partsexpress.com/resources/indexes/sb_guide.cfm

    I have a C15W but last time I looked at it the surround was rotten. I can't see why I can't use a modern driver since I'm just looking for a "eviction box" (my pet name for any sub woofer)

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


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