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ajoker2c

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Posts posted by ajoker2c

  1. I am vey happy with the pre-amp in my Pioneer.

    I'd be happy too with a Pioneer Elite SC 35 pre amp. the 1121vsx is not in the same class and my 9130 is in the middle of the 2. The flexability and increased soundstage of the UMC-1 over my 9130vsx (rebadged sc-01 or 03 cant remember off top of head) made me a happy camper running it off an old Carver a705 amp. JMO

  2. thanks for all of the comments so far, do you guys think the processor is better on the umc-1, then my Poineer VSX-1121?.

    In a nutshell....YES

    I just replaced my Pioneer vsx9130 with the UMC-1 and it is far better in processing both audio and video.

  3. Do you know if I order one does it come with the latest software or do they all need to be updated when you get it?

    I read on the Emotiva boards that the new UMC-1's from Emotiva come with the latest firmware installed.A quick call to them can confirm that.

  4. So you updated your FW yourself? How was the process? I'm hesitant to try it due to so many people saying it's a pain.

    http://emotivalounge.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=preamps&thread=21370

    That method worked for me and was fairly painless YM. It took about 20 minutes to fully install and it seems to be working good. The only thing thats concerning me is that the old plastic remote is still working when it stated on their web site the upgrade would disable it? I'm going to call Emotiva and ask about getting the new remote.

    I got my UMC cheap (300$) and it has been a great upgrade from my Pioneer vsx9130thx.(EMOQ vs MCACC on Pioneer are about equal,but the EMOQ has alot more options to tweak to my liking!). Bass Mgmt on EMOQ is big bonus vs MCACC as well. Low cost and curiosity as well here was the decider for me.

    So far so good here!!

    HDMI handshake has been consistent and between 4-6 seconds to switch and I am using a 4x2 Monoprice matrix switch and it has been working well with the UMC-1

  5. Great looking setup joker. Very nice indeed.

    Do you find that your sub is keeping up with the rest of your system? Just looks kinda small next to everything else.

    Thanks YM, watching and learning from you guys, this set up works great for my needs in a 1 bedroom apartment. .

    The XW-300D Sub is a little beast and fills out the bottom end on both HT and 2 Ch nicely for my needs. It's not overpowering that I'd bother the people around me living above a store front. I think it's perfect for my living arrangements and will go bigger when I move into own house. For 2ch it blends in great with my Heresy's. GL51 sold it to me and he gave me great advice from his listening to it in the wall of voodoo and Heresy's.

    The new FW on the UMC-1 works great here so far and is working solid with HDMI 4x2 matrix switch. Thanks YM for the advice on picking it up.for 300, it is a steal if it maintains its consistency !! It has a better "depth" to sound is the best way I can describe it over my Pioneer 9130

    Williand, your right, and love it when I can just drop screen down and double down on size without losing much resolution. I have the tv mounted on an extending Monprice mount and can pull it out 2 feet so its only 8 feet from MLP for 3D viewing.

  6. A little off topic, but was the picture quality or sound much different from your Pioneer Elite. Or, the features between the two units. Even with similar sound and picture quality, features make a difference when it comes to easy of operation and synergy with your system. I have been been happy using the Pioneer as a pre-amp. For most of us this is a cheaper route to go when entering the pre- pro equipment arena. Just want to pick your brain a little.

    Curious as well. I bought a used UMC-1 and just updated the FW to latest 7.04.00.19 to replace a Pioneer VSX9130.

    FYI Youthman : upgrading with StickNstones alternative method on EMO site was easy. Funny though as the old plastic remote still works as well as my Harmony one.

    Just not looking forward to pulling all my gear out to replace AVR with UMC-1 [:$]

  7. Joker,

    Thanks for the links and all your help. I tried to update and system said no updates available, my current firmware is 001003. If you know different let me know.

    Bill

    My firmware is 1015 on the 51D6500. It appears from reading that 1014.6 is latest for 59D6500.

    Make suree your connected to internet....maybe check the smart hub apps to make sure they are working before updating. From my understanding it was the 1014.6 update that rectified the brightness "pops" that some tvs had.

  8. You can upgrade wirelessly through internet. through Network in menu. You need wireless router to connect to.

    Sorry Williand I wasn't home when I answered and couldn't remember sequence to get connected.

    Hit Menu > then Network > Then Network settings > Start > Highlight Wireless ....hit start > Highlight your wireless network > add password .

    Once connected

    Menu > Support > software upgrade > by online......it should start downloading upgrade if available or necessary.

    Hope that helps

  9. If you downloadtorrents,here is a link to some full films in 3d to test out while you figure out what to buy.. They are not full resolution as a blu ray disc,but very good.

    http://www.sick-flix.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=9

    free to register for a few films

    Just download and put on usb stick,insert it into tv (only problem is you wont get theater sound and will have to use tv speakers,but its only to test it out. I have a WD Live Hub and use that for films.

  10. If it was, then someone can post spec numbers from Brickwall, et al that claim that protection. Numbers for the Brickwall define tiny transients. Also called noise.

    Of course grimmreapersound did post specs.
    Thousands of volts are noise?

    As every major professional organization (including the IEEE and NIST) says, either a surge is connected to earth before entering the building. Or the protector is ... what did the NIST call a protector adjacent to electronics? Useless.

    Nonsense

    Repeating what the NIST surge guide really says about plug-in suppressors:
    They are "the easiest solution".
    And "one effective solution is to have the consumer install" a multiport plug-in suppressor.

    The IEEE surge guide also says they are effective. The only 2 detailed examples of protection both use plug-in protectors.

    Martzloff says an adjacent (point of connection protector can even make appliance damage easier. But then Martzloff is only saying what we have demonstrated for generations: From Martzloff’s 1994 IEEE paper:

    Westom forgets to mention that Martzloff said in the same document:
    "Mitigation of the threat can take many forms. One solution. illustrated in this paper, is the insertion of a properly designed [multiport plug-in surge protector]."

    Multiport protectors allow you to wire phone and cable wires through the protector. They protect from high voltage between power and signal wires.

    At the time of the paper, 1994, multiport surge protectors were just a concept or very new. The point of the paper was that multiport plug-in protectors are effective for protecting equipment with phone and cable connections in addition to power.

    In 2001 Martzloff wrote the NIST guide which also says plug-in suppressors are effective.

    Martzloff says why the Brickwall or H15 does not even claim protection.

    It is another of westom's hallucinations.

    Any wire that enters a building must first make a low impedance (ie ‘less than 10 foot’) connection to single point earth ground. Best protection for cable TV and satellite dish is a direct connection – no protector needed.

    A "single point ground", with short ground wires from cable and entry protectors to a common connection point, is actually an important piece of surge protection. It is covered in the IEEE surge guide.

    No protector needed for cable? The IEEE guide says “there is no requirement to limit the voltage developed between the core and the sheath. .... The only voltage limit is the breakdown of the F connectors, typically ~2–4 kV.” And "there is obviously the possibility of damage to TV tuners and cable modems from the very high voltages that can be developed, especially from nearby lightning."

    For real science read the IEEE and NIST surge guides. Excellent information on protection from surges. And both say plug-in protectors are effective.

    You two are adorable !

  11. Here is a C/P of another calibrated set I liked on my 51 inch.

    C/P

    Mode Movie

    Peak White 35ftL

    Cell Light 15

    Contrast 94

    Brightness 65

    Sharpness 10

    Color 48

    Tint 50/50

    Black Tone off

    Dynamic off

    gamma -1

    RGB Only off

    Flesh Tone off

    Edge Enhance off

    Motion Light off

    xvYcc off

    Color Tone warm2

    Digital Noise off

    mpeg Noise off



    Color Space

    Red_r 78

    Red_g 75

    Red_b 50

    Green_r 100

    Green_g 16

    Green_b 0

    Blue_r 18

    Blue_g 22

    Blue_b 37

    Yellow_r 14

    Yellow_g 29

    Yellow_b 43

    Cyan_r 100

    Cyan_g 48

    Cyan_b 36

    Magenta_r 37

    Magenta_g 100

    Magenta_b 49



    White Balance

    r-offset 24

    g-offset 22

    b-offset 26

    r-gain 21

    g-gain 26

    b-gain 28



    10-point

    r1 0

    g1 1

    b1 -1

    r2 3

    g2 2

    b2 -1

    r3 4

    g3 3

    b3 -1

    r4 3

    g4 3

    b4 0

    r5 3

    g5 3

    b5 1

    r6 4

    g6 4

    b6 0

    r7 3

    g7 3

    b7 1

    r8 1

    g8 3

    b8 -1

    r9 -2

    g9 -2

    b9 -6

    r10 -3

    g10 -2

    b10 -3

  12. I picked up the PN51D6500 plasma demo for 450$ last month and LOVE IT ! Didnt' come with stand or remote. (there is a iphone app for samsung and is exactly like the remote! and works well when set up wirelessly through router)

    Nice P/U....make sure you upgrade the firmware as there was brightness "pops" in the earlier firmwares. The latest firmware eliminates it.

    Here is a link to the calibration thread I used on AVS (posts 89,90 and 93) worked very well for me.

    Remember if your using 3d that you'll need to bypass your AVR with HDMI if its not 3d compatible and run optical for sound .

    3d works very well on these Samsung Plasmas with SSG-3500CR glasses

    Congrats on great buy !

    http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1324383&page=3

  13. If I did upgrade the hard drive, how do you get the PS3 operating system on it? Or is it already installed when you buy the hard drive?

    The OS I believe is kept on internal memory. When I upgraded to 500gb drive it was easy and took only a few minutes and has been working flawlessly since. The suggested hard drive is the Westen Digital Scorpio Blue in whatever size you want. I believe there is a cap in size ,but I do know the 500gb works great.

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