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dewthedru

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    Finally....My Stonehenge Build Thread!

    in Subwoofers

    Posted

    Ch A is +1, -1

    Ch B is +2, -2

    Bridge is +1, +2

     

    You need to use the Ch A and Ch B for stereo and the set the correct ohm load for the I Nuke 3000 DSP amp. All this is under tab 1(Configuration). To use bridge mode you will have to connect sub 1 and sub 2 to have a series or parallel connection.  Let Auddysee EQ the subs as one.  This works very good for most people.

    A couple of things. First, I thought you only use +2, -2 if you are running a 4 pole connections from a single amp output to two different speakers. I was under the impression that if you ran 2 lines from separate amp outputs they would both use +1, -1. At any rate, I'm happy to try running it with +2, -2 but I'm a bit skeptical since both channels are currently very quiet.

    Second, if I run bridge mode, that means another set of holes in the wall going from one sub to the other. If rather avoid that if I can.

    Finally....My Stonehenge Build Thread!

    in Subwoofers

    Posted

    Stereo 2 ohm will give 1500 watts per ch.  A 4 ohm load is easier on the amp.  I never used the I Nuke 3000 DSP amp in a 2 ohm loads.  The key is making sure the Neutrik speakon connection is wired correctly.  I have a Nuke 3000 DSP running my shakers in stereo and if I switch ch A and B speakon without re-wiring, I get minimal output.  For now, I would just try bridge mod to get things working and then you can work on wiring

     

    from everything i've read, the speakon connection is just red into +1 and black into -1.  i have the 4 pole version.  don't think even i can screw that up. 

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EKMGO4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Finally....My Stonehenge Build Thread!

    in Subwoofers

    Posted

    Under configuration, the I Nuke is set to stereo.  It sounds like you want to run in bridge mode-dual mono.  Things are wired for a 2 ohm stereo load.  The speakon connection can affect output if they are wired wrong.  You really should not have to set the mains + sub to get output.  Also, with two subs, the setting of separated distance for two sub is not that important in the subwoofer band in a small HT.  Others may disagree on this point but, due to reflections in a small HT the exercise of setting distances accurately is not accurate to say the least.  In Pro setup in open spaces it is valid.

     

    this is frustrating.  i'm mainly choosing stereo because i don't want to have to run a speaker wire between the two subs.  doesn't bridge mode require that?

     

    i'm not worried about the configuration that will give me the very most power since i won't be running them super high.  i'm just trying to get my two output from the avr to make sound.  i thought stereo was the best option since i have a 2 channel amp.

    Finally....My Stonehenge Build Thread!

    in Subwoofers

    Posted

     

    so....dual mono or bridge? and any idea on why both channels are super quiet?

    did you do like I said and try witching the subwoofer mode to LFE+mains?

     

     

    i'm at work so i can't do it now.  but IIRC, i had it like that for a while last night before switching it.  

    Finally....My Stonehenge Build Thread!

    in Subwoofers

    Posted · Edited by dewthedru

    got it all hooked up. not in the right spots and i'm waiting for longer screws to mount the drivers but good enough to hook them up....

    .....and i can't get the volume any higher than to where i can barely hear them with the gain turned all the way up on both channels. i have it set to stereo.

    my connections

    rca out via xlr adapter to the amp

    speakon connectors with the12g speaker wires hooked to +1 and -1. speaker wire to the speaker connector. red from speaker connector to the + on one of the coils. red jumper to the other + on the other coil. same with the black.

    am i missing something? does my denon x4000 have some sort of limiter or what? i can't find anything on the behringer app that's limiting it. the subwoofer volume is set at 0 like the rest of the speakers.

    aaarrrgghhhh!

    Finally....My Stonehenge Build Thread!

    in Subwoofers

    Posted

    Turning a sub toward the wall will 1.) load the driver and 2.) help filter out for the lack of a better word some of the higher frequencies.  Downing firing would be the best choice.  I have had front firing, down firing and rear ported subs.  Midrange voices have not been a problem with any of the subs that I have owned. 

     

    Low bass is omnidirectional.  But, there are higher order harmonic that may call attention to the size that can be help by firing the sub into the wall or using a down firing sub.  Bass decay and reverb may also be a room problem.

     

    3d72f264b0cf2e7ad14d4eafd894c101fb52afd6

    Finally....My Stonehenge Build Thread!

    in Subwoofers

    Posted · Edited by dewthedru

    Turn the sub toward the wall an compare it to front firing.  Keep the one you like best.  Thanks for the links Metro.

     

    you're suggested i simply rely on my ears instead of endlessly searching for "the best" way to do it per some stranger's advice or internet article?   :huh:

    • Like 1

    Finally....My Stonehenge Build Thread!

    in Subwoofers

    Posted

    yep.  i am now ready to put all the panels on.  this thing is stupid easy to build.  love it.  the only question i have so far is that Erich suggests driving the driver mounting screws directly into the stonehendge looking supports in the box, presumably with wood screws.  some of you have recommended using tee bolts instead which would presumably be inserted into a gap between the supporting stonehenge pieces.  

     

    thoughts?  i bought a bunch of #10 tee bolts to use and and leaning that way.  

     

    i'm also trying to figure out how to improve the WAF on this build.  painting semigloss black is the first option but i'm considering putting a nice top on it so it looks more like an end table.  however, they'll be at the front of the room by the screen so this may be a bit silly since nobody puts end tables up front and they wouldn't be holding anything.  just trying to think of a way to spruce up the look a bit.  hmmm....

    Finally....My Stonehenge Build Thread!

    in Subwoofers

    Posted

    i got the flat packs from DIYSoundGroup yesterday.  Arrived a little less than a week after I ordered them.

     

    Each sub is 2 boxes.  20oz Mt. Dew for scale

     

    Stonehenge build 1

     
    It's packed nicely and securely.  Zero issues with any of the pieces being chipped or misshapen. 
     

    Stonehenge build 3

     

    I put the pieces together just to get a picture of what it would look like.  Everything fits in the slots so perfectly that I feel like I'm cheating somehow.  But I'm still going to tell people "I built it."   B)

     

    Stonehenge build 4

     
    First step of the first one done.  Will duplicate this step on the second one as soon as it dries.  I only clamped the sides of the main cross brace and weighted it down with a bucket of paint.  Again, it all fits so snugly and perfectly that I can't imagine you need to clamp everything.  That's also what Erich says in his instructions. 
     

    Stonehenge build 6

     

    Finally....My Stonehenge Build Thread!

    in Subwoofers

    Posted

    Op,

    So you're going to wire the dual 4 ohm voice coils in parallel for a 2 ohm load, and then put each one on separate channel of the amp?

    yes that should be exactly what he is doing.

    Dual 4's won't be available till May per the web site. He should get the dual 2's and wire for 4 Ohm/side. The amp still has more power than he'll need at 4 Ohms and will work easier.

    Perhaps I got the last 2 because they are on a FedEx truck scheduled for delivery tomorrow.

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