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DubPlate

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Posts posted by DubPlate

  1. Difference between RF-7ii and RP-280F is all about the tweet.  Basically RP-280F is still just a normal tweeter, and yeah the horn tricks it into acting more like a compression driver but at the end of the day it's still somewhat of a hybrid solution.  RF-7ii is an actual compression driver, the real deal.  Low volume it's actually hard to tell them apart.  High volume, things like glass breaking just isn't the same, RF-7ii is totally in control, very crisp, magical tinkling sounds... RP-280F just isn't quite the same.  It's nice, but still.  Only problem is that the RF-7ii is kinda bright sometimes.  The new RF-7iii is supposed to be more toned down with a ref premier like sound, the best of both worlds.  New horn, new compression driver, new crossover.  Supposed to be smoother, better imaging, less hot spots, not as fatiguing, etc.  



    My experience with the 280s is consistent with your statement. I tend to listen at a low to medium volume because the tweets start to lose there composure as the volume increases. Its not horrible, but noticeable, especially if the source has a lot of high frequency content. The mids though tend to only get better as you crank the volume higher.

    Do you thing it would be worthwhile experimenting with some old Fortes (I or IIs)? I see them on eBay sometimes.
  2. have not heard them please share your thoughts!


    I don’t have a lot of experience with well built speakers. The 280s have definitely changed that. The dynamics makes classical and vocals feels like the venue is in my living room. Plus the imaging, depending on the source, can be uncanny; the speakers, dispite there size, can really disappear into the music at times. Does it get much better than this? Would you recommend saving for some fortes?
  3. Hey folks:

     

    Other than size of the woofers, horns and cabinet, are there other qualitative differences between the RP 280 and R7ii that would make the R7ii sound substantially better?

     

    For example, are the woofers of the R7ii constructed out of superior materials, or sport different technologies?

     

    Is the crossover of the R7ii superior to that if the RP 280?

     

    I am asking because I own the RP 280s, but have always been curious about the R7iis. Now that the R7ii are on close out, I am super curious!

  4. This is a shot in the dark folks. I own the 280s, I love them. The dynamics, Lows and mids on these things are amazing. However, after several months of use, positioning, and calibrations, I still finds the highs a little fatiguing.

     

    Is anyone aware of any

    aftermarket crossover network that I could employ to address this issue, or even just to get a little more out of the speakers?

     

    I am not savvy enough to make an actual crossover network, looking for something I could simple install.

     

    Thanks.

  5. Should I play with the speaker size in the settings? My center is a pro Yamaha horn loaded with a 15" woofer and a very large med tweeter. It's like 18" by 6"  

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

     

    Just ensure you run all eight setup points, if your running klipsch (highly efficient) mains, you may have to go in and adjust the subwoofer trims upward quite a bit after calibration. Else the subs won't be able to keep up the mains at reasonable to high levels. That because the MKii tends set the sub low to begin with, and efficient speakers exacerbate the discrepancy.

     

    One cool thing is you can set crossover for two channel listening separately. This allowed me to set my music playback, which I only listen to in two channel, at lower crossover than the default crossover setting.

     

    Running the RP 280s for mains, I crossover at 60 for two channel playback, 80 for everything else. I find this gives the bass I like for music and movies.

     

    I disable dynamic volume

     

    Enable dynamic eq

     

    Set m-Dax to low, to compensate for compressed online music like Spotify. If you stream uncompressed music from your computers from time to time, you may want to turn m-dax off on those occasions. I just set mine to low and don't worry about having to turn in on and off.

     

    You def want to update the firmware asap, fixed a lot of networking issues for me.

     

    Also, if you just bought it (unlike me), you may want to return it for the slighter newer models. They now have the ability to manually alter the filter curve via app on smartphone, and to determine a certain frequency beyond which the filter will not be applied.

     

    If you don't care much about balanced outputs, you may want to get the sr 7010 receiver, as the MKii is literally the sr7010 with balanced outputs, minus nine channels of amplification, 6 of which I believe are reassignable on the sr 7010.

     

     

    • Like 1
  6. I have the MKii for a few months. Def want to use the Audussey setup, especially if you have sensitive speakers. Coming from a receiver with only three seating positions during setup, i tried doing only the first 3 of the 8 that the MKii permits. But finding the time and and quiet to all eight really made a big difference, even in a relatively small space.

    Dont get me wrong, it sounds fine w/o calibration. But it's strengths are enhanced with calibration. In fact, there is no real disadvantage to doing the calibration, because you can thereafter disable the the results for each source. For example, disabling the calibrations setting on the phono input keeps the setting intact for the other sources, which was a feature I was not aware of before purchase.

    Specifically, the auto setup really tightened up the base from my two subs, as well as from my mains (which also put out a lot base). Because i have very sentive speakers, The MKii set my subs too low, and they would not keep up with my mains at high volume. I therefore had to manually up the volume of the subs. It does a good job at eq for the subs though.

    With 7.1 setup, I would think calibration could only benefit your listening experience. Mine is 3.2 because I am still trying to figure out how to integrate side and rear channels that is kid proof, w/o ripping into walls or doing ceiling mounts.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk








  7. i did factory reset and switched on or off nothing.



    wiring is correct i double checked.i wish i had a chance to try those beasts with another more powerfull AVR.




    By the way, trim and channel level are the same thing. As noted by another commentator, If you have a sub, set a crossover of around 80. That should take some load off your mains, allowing them to articulate and play louder.

    The 260s are nice. If possible, place them at least 6 feet apart, with cabinetry that is low to the ground, or use none at all. I found doing so opened up the bass and expanded the sound stage.

    Also, Ia lot of people toe in these speakers quite a bit, after going through numerous configurations, i found that a toe in that is ever so slight reduces the highs, opens up the soundstage, and eliminates listening fatigue. To each there own though, enjoy.



  8. i sit 3 meters away from the speakers and the correction done by the AVR is okay.



    listening are is around 20m²-25m².








     








    i didn't know anything about trim until you say guys.Found a forum that explains it and i am checking it out.








    okay,i have checked the TRIM values for my each speaker and Front Left and Front Right (the klipsch speakers) were set at -1.5db.



    My center was +0.5


    My surround right and left were +4.0db


    My surround backs were at 0db



    is increasing the db cause any damage to any of the componenets?



    and is setting them at -1.5db for front speakers normal by default?i mean the behaviour of the avr ,is it normal?what level should i increase it to for the front klipsch rp-260Fs?








     








    and by the way guys; when i take a look at the Fine channel level settings  the front speakers are set at -3.0db  but the trim is at -1.5db so what is the difference between the TRIm and Channel level?


    thanks in advance guys


     




    Honestly, I would say those trims levels are within normal range. Adjusting the trim will not damage anything, however it will through your auto calibration settings off, depending on the degree of adjustment.

    One other thing to check, check to make sure you didn't accidentally switch the positive and negative on one or more of your speakers, or on the back terminals of the receiver. Wiring one speaker out of phase can cause cancellation, and a perceived reduction in output. I have made this mistake on more than one occasion.

    Did u get a phase error prompt during auto calibration?


    Once you have ensure that your speakers are wired correctly, also make sure your sub is in phase. Best way for this is to play a familiar track and switch the phase knob on the the sub from one position to the next, to see witch phase setting produces the highest audible volume in the base region. Often the right position produces the best base output.

    You may also want to check your avr to see if you accidentally enabled something the equivalent of knight mode, or some other bass/treble reduction feature.

    Good luck.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Some avrs will turn the trim on the speakers to the lowest value possible when they detect highly efficient speakers during setup. That happened in my case. Check your trims for possible adjustment, see if they significantly differ in comparison to the previous setup.

    Also you may have less wattage per channel now that you have sorrounds.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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